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Something I avoid at all cost but guess I'll need to - to get my shift light and D-PIC connected. I would be tempted to use the insulated snap together type if both wires were the same guage but suspect when I get in to it there will be a wide variance in guage. Ok - so slice back and solder but then how do you insulate? All electrical tapes I have used aren't worth the powder to blow them to H*%$. They don't stick!
Anybody have a better mousetrap or know of a GOOD brand of electrical tape? No way to use shrink tubing on this deal. Also, I have a larger soldering gun (too big) - anyone had any experience with those little "cold" soldering irons advertised where the guy touches the tip right after melting solder?
I know - insignificant questions but somebody's always got a better method. Thanks
If you can't use shrink tube then I would use 3M electrical tape.. it works really well. Those cold soldering irons are useless unless what you're soldering is very fine (finer than anything in your car for sure) and even then they aren't very good. You can pick up a basic Weller soldering iron with a fine tip for less that $20 at a hardware store plus it's always nice to have for small work.
If you splice like a "T" to the main wire, I usually run electrical tape around the wire in a triangular pattern covering all 3 wire gaps. This style tends to hold well.
If you can't use shrink tube then I would use 3M electrical tape.. it works really well. Those cold soldering irons are useless unless what you're soldering is very fine (finer than anything in your car for sure) and even then they aren't very good. You can pick up a basic Weller soldering iron with a fine tip for less that $20 at a hardware store plus it's always nice to have for small work.
I figured anything they had to advertise on TV wouldn't be worth bringing home. I've used quite a bit of the 3M stuff w/good results - will try their tape - I have part of a roll of their dbl sided for other things and you'd better place it right the 1st time - it stays stuck.
Thanks to all for the tips!
Personally I would cut the wires and then slide shrink tube over one end of the stock wire you're tapping. Solder em together neatly and then slide the shrink tube over the splice and it heat it...
There is a rubber splice tape used by electricians. It stretches and once it is wrapped and formed it becomes impossible to unravel. The only way to remove it is to cut it off. This can be used to tape up spices on underground cable. I just don't have a part number right now. If you go to an industrial electrical supplier they'll have it.
If you do use shrink tube, look for the double wall stuff with the glue like material in the middle. That stuff seals up a joint very well.
There is a rubber splice tape used by electricians. It stretches and once it is wrapped and formed it becomes impossible to unravel. The only way to remove it is to cut it off. This can be used to tape up spices on underground cable. I just don't have a part number right now. If you go to an industrial electrical supplier they'll have it.
If you do use shrink tube, look for the double wall stuff with the glue like material in the middle. That stuff seals up a joint very well.
I believe it's call "self-vulcanizing" tape. Haven't tried the stuff but sounds like an awesome solution espcially for things like the end of wire looms.
I believe it's call "self-vulcanizing" tape. Haven't tried the stuff but sounds like an awesome solution espcially for things like the end of wire looms.
I found & ordered a roll from harborfreight.com. The ad says it'll do all the above + everything else except wipe your - - nose.
Again - thanks to all the response to a simple question but I've really gotten some good ideas about products I didn't know existed.
OK - it'll be a couple of weeks - don't have my guages yet and busy trying to make a living in my insurance agency - gotta keep that afoat so I can buy more toys.
First buy a Weller soldering GUN as opposed to a soldering “iron”. With a “gun” you will get almost instant heat when you want it. With a soldering iron you must wait until it’s hot and if you have additional soldering to do, you must keep the iron plugged in until the remainder of the joints are ready.
An iron will work fine if you’re on a strict budget and rarely do soldering. I still use the same Weller soldering GUN I purchased 40 years ago. Damn I’m getting old.
I do use a small iron for delicate soldering on circuit boards.
Here’s what I do if shrink tubing is not an option. After soldering wrap a high quality electrical tape one direction and then back over the joint for a second layer, then cut the tape (don’t pull to tear). Then place a small size nylon wire-tie over the cut end of the tape, to prevent the tape from unraveling.
I’ve been doing electrical work since high school (Vocational Electric Shop) and this method has proved to be very secure. I have “taped & wire-tied” solder joints in some of my cars that were done 30+ years ago that are still secure all these years later.
DO NOT CUT THE WIRES, stupid thing to tell somebody is to cut wires because it ruins the integrity of the wire!!! Use a poke and wrap technique. It is the safest way to preserve the wires with out damaging the original equipment. I do this on $100k and up Tractor Trailers (Cemi) and have zero issues.
3M electrical tape and a good zip tie and it will never fall apart and will be perfectly insulated. You dont need a fancy whoopdedo tape.
If you do not want to poke and wrap please solder the wires by peeling back some insulation.
Works great, its pretty much what they are talking about above. It can take heat and can make a good seal. I've never had luck with plain black electrictions tape, but this stuff is great. I used it where temps might be high, because shrink wrap can't take as much heat. I'm sure the shrink wrap will make a better seal, but if it can't take the heat of the location then I'd go the tape.
Sure the cheap electrical tape with a tie wrap might not unravel but it's a crapshoot if it will be weatherproof or not if it's such crap that it doesn't even stick to itself.
The above stuff will become the equivalent of one piece of rubber given a little time.
Peter
Last edited by lionelhutz; May 4, 2009 at 06:50 PM.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by TheRadioFlyer
I believe it's call "self-vulcanizing" tape. Haven't tried the stuff but sounds like an awesome solution espcially for things like the end of wire looms.
That's the stuff I mentioned to you when I was over at your place getting my lights installed George. It's great stuff. Most APs have it. At first glance it looks like just another roll of black electrical tape but the price is quite a bit higher; usually in the $4-$6 range for a roll. What I like most is that has NO adhesive at all (no sticky mess) and relies on being stretched slightly (that's key) when wrapping anything. It bonds to itself and has to be cut off to remove it. Great for hoses too.
Who is going to cut wires and do splice jobs where it is exposed to the elements? If I have to do a job like that I will use weather proof connections or some other type connections like they use under the hood.
P.S. If the poke and wrap technique is done correctly it is weather proof. I found some old scrap wiring I had behind the Garage and just for shts and giggles I tore it down and saw no exposure to the elements after 1 year in Wisconsin.
I believe it's call "self-vulcanizing" tape. Haven't tried the stuff but sounds like an awesome solution espcially for things like the end of wire looms.
I use it, but fair warning, it is expensive. Also has to be stretched over itself to work.