lionelhutz

And you have a study or something that shows that causes the single coupler to fail quicker?

Peter

00Corvette

It makes sense to me with no study involved. What else would absorb all the vibration besides the other bushing?

What is the advantage to the solid bushings if below say 5-600 ft lbs anyway?

I just think for balancing and longetivity OEM rubber are the way to go. If you're running on a track all the time or have slicks/high HP...different TT, etc...maybe but for the the far majority...rubber seems to last a long time.

00Corvette

anyone on this or my post before this one?

thanks so much

lionelhutz

I've never read about that bearing before so I doubt it's a valid part. I have a manual so I don't know about those plug bolts, that's an auto only thing.

Peter

00Corvette

Peter,

Thank you so much for the reply. That was the first I've heard of that one too. I'll just stick with what I've got and deal with it if they're the wrong ones when I get it out.

A buddy and I are tackling it this Saturday and Sunday if needed.


And on the plug bolts, the manual states that you are supposed to pull the "plug bolts" out of the bellhousing and replaced them with longer bolts and screw them down until they touch.
I'm assuming this holds the tube/shaft itself in place for alignment? While you disconnect the shaft from the engine/flywheel and then eventually transmission/rear end...

But then I just don't know when to pull those bolts out and when/how to put them back in and align properly??

from service manual

10. Remove the transmission flexplate to transmission torque converter bolts. Refer to Flexplate to
Torque Converter Bolts in Automatic Transmission.
11. Remove the two plug bolts from the front of driveline support assembly.
Service Information Page 3 of 35
http://127.0.0.1:9001/servlets/BlobS...bid=180&cellId... 4/15/2009
Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part
number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of
thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints,
lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These
coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the
correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage
to parts and systems.
Important
The propeller input shaft front bearing positioning bolts are intended to remain torqued to
specification and in place UNTIL INSTRUCTED in the installation procedure.
Important
Failure to use the minimum length fastener specified will prevent proper retention of the propeller
input shaft front bearing during disassembly or installation.
12. Install two bolts, M10 - 1.5 X 55 mm, or longer, in place of the plug bolts. (The long bolts are
located to maintain the propeller input shaft front bearing in original position during removal and
installation.) Tighten
Tighten the propeller input shaft front bearing positioning bolts to 35 N·m (26 lb ft).


Important
The following steps MUST be performed in order to provide proper alignment of the propeller
shaft hub, the propeller input shaft and the propeller input shaft front bearing.
Service Information Page 33 of 35
http://127.0.0.1:9001/servlets/BlobS...bid=180&cellId... 4/15/2009
72. Start and run the engine at idle until normal operating temperatures are reached. (Idle or drive for
at least 10 minutes.)
73. Turn off the engine and allow the powertrain to cool to ROOM temperature.
74. Raise the vehicle.
75. Tighten the propeller shaft hub clamp bolt (1). Tighten
Tighten the propeller shaft hub clamp bolt to 125 N·m (93 lb ft).
76.

00Corvette

anyone on those plug bolts? i don't want to start a whole new thread just for that...i think it's better to just keep all the info in one place

edit: I see that the bolts are designed to hold a front bearing in place throughout the removal/installation of the torque tube...I am replacing 3 bearings I know so I just want to see if I'm supposed to just leave them in the whole time or if I'll have to remove the bolts in the plug bolt holes to replace one or more of the bearings?

Also, how much tranny fluid did you guys lose when you pull the cooling lines off? I'm going to go and get some plugs but just trying to cover all of my bases as it's not like you can just add more tranny fluid and check on these things...

SteveDoten

Seems like most people are replacing the entire Torque Tube

I've talked to a couple of shops/people that are higher on the food chain than myself

I need to get ahold of Mike Yeager

Venomized03

Ok.. I called RPM because I believe my torque tube seems to be making a knocking noise in neutral at idle. (its a 2001 6spd TT).. They charge $375 for the kit.

With that said, I've read through this thread and part #s are flying all over the place, lol. Can someone tell me exactly what I should order please.. My car should be in the range of 850-900 rwhp one finished with the tune. I don't know if that matters, but I read that there are different ways of rebuilding it.

RX-Ben

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1572015150-post38.html

You might need a new prop shaft bushing (the one that goes on the outside of the shaft and prevents metal-metal contact w/the tq tube). Or just go carbon fiber. You are asking to break stuff if you can ever get traction. The last thing you want is a broken shaft spinning @ rpm next to your right leg.

Chris Stewart

You can tell RPM what you need, and they send you the good stuff. They know how like NAPA.

T_Vert

Right above your question.. This is what I used.

Dave

Venomized03

Ok.. How'd you find the bushings on eBay? I was told to replace the couplers too, is that what you mean by bushings?

00Corvette

ebatmus...not EBAY. read his post again.

You may find SKF bearings on ebay though of the same measurements

T_Vert

Bushings were ebay actually but I recommend you don't follow suit. They were garbage after only a few months of use. I got some her from a forum vendor made for bmw and they've been fine..

SteveDoten

Yes sir, talked to Jeremy

bearings and couplers swapped out

1. Note arrows pointing towards flange
2. Need snapon or mac Torx bit
3. Mark orientaion of 3 parts
4. Torque to spec and loctite
5. Be careful of weights and removing the torx bolts

hiperf454

how do you get the bearings out of the aluminum housing with the two bearings in it. I got the other one off but I am not sure about pressing around on that thin aluminumum housing that the two bearings are in. I would like some guidence on this.
thanks
Kelly

Chris Stewart

I removed the rubber bushings myself, then took mine to NAPA to change the bearings and install new ones I got from RPM. It only cost about 1.5 hours labor. I printed some instructions from the service manual for them to follow. I scanned a copy if anyone wants to do the same. This is for automatic style.

http://cjstewart4.home.comcast.net/~...tt_service.pdf

bfrank87

Has anyone ordered the torque tube bearings from the site above recently? I tried searching the listed part number and it's coming back with no results. There are multiple options for Timken 6008 and 6007 but I have no idea which one is correct. Any help would be appreciated. Car is a 99 manual.

WM-9c1

You want to search for the exact part number listed in the post you quoted, "2rsjem" is the clearance and seal specification

bfrank87