How Screwed Am I?? Lowering Problem.
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 67
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From: Indy
How Screwed Am I?? Lowering Problem.
I had a few hours to myself on Sunday so I decided to work on the Vette.
Oil/ filter change - check,
lower the rear 1/2 inch - check,
lower the front 1/2 inch - this is where I messed up and rounded off the head of the 10mm lowering bolt on the front driver side. It wouldn't budge even after applying some PB blaster - I just tried to force it.
The stance looks fine, but I still want to drop the front. Any recommendations for getting this done? How much stupid tax will I have to pay at my local shop?
Thanks for thinking of me
Oil/ filter change - check,
lower the rear 1/2 inch - check,
lower the front 1/2 inch - this is where I messed up and rounded off the head of the 10mm lowering bolt on the front driver side. It wouldn't budge even after applying some PB blaster - I just tried to force it.
The stance looks fine, but I still want to drop the front. Any recommendations for getting this done? How much stupid tax will I have to pay at my local shop?
Thanks for thinking of me
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,190
Likes: 0
From: Fayetteville AR
I had to use another jack under the rotor (with a block of wood) and i just nudged it up slightly and it allowed me to turn the bolt. The first time I tried this I went too high and it would not turn so I lowered it all the way and just barely moved it up and it worked fine.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
There have been hundreds of past threads on this. Use keywords like "lowering a c5" or similar in C5 Tech. Use search or search this forum (in the red banner). Many threads had images.
This issue is very common with cars now a few years old subjected to the elements, road grime/grit.
Once you've rounded off the hex head, you have a few options... VICEGRIPS or weld on a hex nut to the end of the adjustment bolt.
Hopefully, the adjustment bolt(s) is not rusted to the insert within the spring. If that's the situation, that might require R&R of the spring or replacement of the spring.
You need to fully lubricate the adjustment bolt(s) with PB BLASTER. Nothing else seems to work as well (NAPA).
Fill the little trough on the top side of the spring that surrounds the threaded upper portion of the bolt. Allow it to soak overnight.
If/when you see it has wicked down through the spring, you'll know it's fully lubricated. Adjustment can sometimes be made w/o the 10mm wrench.
You also need to relieve the pressure on the end of the spring with a bottle jack.
You need to insure that the rubber bushing isn't vulcanized to the control arm. Use more PB BLASTER on the bushing and pry it free with a metal putty knife.
This issue is very common with cars now a few years old subjected to the elements, road grime/grit.
Once you've rounded off the hex head, you have a few options... VICEGRIPS or weld on a hex nut to the end of the adjustment bolt.
Hopefully, the adjustment bolt(s) is not rusted to the insert within the spring. If that's the situation, that might require R&R of the spring or replacement of the spring.
You need to fully lubricate the adjustment bolt(s) with PB BLASTER. Nothing else seems to work as well (NAPA).
Fill the little trough on the top side of the spring that surrounds the threaded upper portion of the bolt. Allow it to soak overnight.
If/when you see it has wicked down through the spring, you'll know it's fully lubricated. Adjustment can sometimes be made w/o the 10mm wrench.
You also need to relieve the pressure on the end of the spring with a bottle jack.
You need to insure that the rubber bushing isn't vulcanized to the control arm. Use more PB BLASTER on the bushing and pry it free with a metal putty knife.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
From: Indy
I did not. Obviously that was the problem. I pulled the car up on ramps thinking I could save some time......instead of following the instructions provided by members of the forum.....wrong thing to do.
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