So after running the stock clutch in my ls1 rx7 for a while it ended up slipping the first track pass. So I decided to get an Oz700 a guy had up on ls1tech. The clutch had about 500-1000 miles on it before I got it.

Anway after intalling the clutch assembly I got the transmission back in the car and everything mounted up. Filled the tranny and bled the clutch

Clutch got firm and after talking to a guy locally his oz700 had a constant firmness from the top to the bottom of the pedal travel. Well I crank the car up with a spare slip yoke in the transmission and when I start the car up in neutral the ****in output shaft is spinning as the engine spins. so I'm like no way. I need to put some load on this drivetrain and see if it still spins. So I hook up the driveshaft and I grabbed the wheels in the back and turned them to get to the bolts on the driveshaft and the output shaft finally started free spinning (as it should with the car in neutral.)

Anyway so I was like that was wierd, it was like it was stuck or something. So I start the car up again put the clutch in and put it into first, I look back and the tires are spinning with my foot still on the clutch. I put the car back into neutral and the tires stopped spinning. I tried any other gear and if I tried forcing it into 2nd the tires would start to spin up slowly as I tried to move the shifter into that position but it never actually went into any gear but first.

This isnt ****in normal or cool. OZ700s dont need shims although its acting like it does need a shim. I even measured the distance between the face of the tranny and the end of the slave when its compressed, and the distance between the mating surface of the bellhousing and the fingers of the clutch and they were within .1" of each other. I should only need a shim if they are more than a quarter inch off.

I bled and bled and bled the clutch and I got a lot of big bubbles out then I got just a constant stream of bubbles for hours. I am starting to think a seal or something in the system is letting air in under vaccum. I bled for hours. I ****in hate working with brake fluid, i have it everywhere and it stings every little cut and nick you get it in. I might need to bleed it more but I've gone through 2 full quarts of brake fluid.

I came back to it the next day after the air in the system had settled and it let out one big bubble and then was perfectly clear and the pedal pressure was the exact same. Wanted to know if anyone else had this issue. I heard at one point textralia made some clutch disks that were actually too big I might have gotten one of those I dont know though. Deff open to suggestions. I pulled my tranny twice this week and it looks like this is gonna be the third time. Doing tranny installs in your garage by yourself is friggen a pain.

So any help would be great.

Thanks guys

 

You may have done this already, but if not I recommed you attempt to rotate the clutch disk by hand while the pedal is depressed. This will let you know if you are getting enough slave cylinder actuator travel, on which surface the clutch plate is dragging (pressure plate or flywheel) and if the clutch disk run-out is excessive.

 

How would you do that? To get your fingers on the clutch you'de have to pull the tranny and thus the slave and then how would you actuate the pressure plate with the slave out?

 

Got a hand from my girl friend today. She said she wanted a work out, I told her we were doing legs and to hop in the car and pump the pedal when I say so.

Bled the clutch the classic way with me under the car, crack the bleeder, her put the pedal to the floor and then tighten it back up. Then pump up the pedal again regain pressure and do it over and over. Pedal pressure was the exact same the whole time and again I could hear the fingers of the pressure plate creaking as the slave pushed against them.

So today I decided that because I could stop the wheels from spinning with the ebrake whie the engine can still idle in first, so I figure its not dragging that bad maybe theres a high spot on the clutch or something that if I take it for a drive around the block will smooth out (hopeful thinking) So I put the car in reverse and keep my foot on the clutch (you can see where this is going) and crank the car and as I crank the car it starts moving and then see yah later I'm headed out of the garag and back down my driveway faster than I like I hit the brakes and kill the engine and come to a stop. Thank god I just happened to have the wheel straight when I started the car or I woulda taken out the side of the garage. That woulda been a real bad day. Had to push the car back into the garage.

Deff not driveable and if something is off its WAY the **** off. Its not a minor adjustment sort of thing

I sent a guy an email on v8rx7forum.com who had an issue with the oz700
I asked him what happened and this is what he said

Hi
Basically what happend was they shipped the wrong clutch disc out with the unit. The ears on the disc made contact with the bellhousing and would stick. If you pull the disc back out, and if it is the same problem, you can see where the edges of it are making contact.
This happend some time ago but perhaps more than one of the mispacks made it out. According to my friend they were easy to contact and they also swapped the disc with no hassels.
My Friend travels quite a bit on contract work, but I can put you in touch with a friend of ours who was a lttle closer to the situation from start to finish than I was. His name is Ron and knows GM drivetrains really well.

Hope this helps, FWIW, after the right disc was installed the clutch performed very well.

BTW
I think there was a thread out on LS1tech about it, too


Well I guess either way it looks like I'm pulling the tranny again, but while I'm in there I'll check for that. Anyone have any ideas?

 

C-5's have a split bell housing, the lower portion of the housing is removable allowing for this inspection. I'm guessing by your post your's does not.

 

Naww I've got a camaro ls1/t56

That would be awfully nice to have though