I have read some of the threads on this topic but still have a question. I have a 97 M6 and I put in a new Optima Red Top about 3 months ago..so I dont think I have the voltage issue.

I have had the car for 2 years with no issues and all of the sudden I start getting the Pull Key or column lock message. I see there is a column lock bypass available but my column never actually locked, it just dies if when I try to drive. I finally got it to start today after being stranded today and got it to the dealership and they are going to look at on Monday.

It appears that there is not much of a fix for this issue except the CLB. Since my column is not actually locking....will this do me any good?

Any help appreciated before I have to talk with the GM Service dept on Monday morning.

 

My 01' Z is sitting in the garage now with the same issue. From what I gather, your 97 has had the recall work done already since your column did not lock up and I am assuming you have always been able to turn the wheel without the key in the ignition. The mechanism in the column has been disabled per recall directions. It seems your glitch is with the BCM transmitting an error to the PCM and shutting the fuel off above 2 mph per the GM PCM reflash as part of the fix...nice huh?
My guess is the harness, module or something associated with the BCM that GM used to "fix" it the first time has failed. Have your service manager look up your vehicle service history and see if that is the case. If so, I would make them fix it again under recall.
I ordered a CLB for mine last night but today talked with my tuner and he says he can program the column lock and associated fuel shutoff out so it will never be an issue again. I am sending my PCM to him monday. I would suggest this route, especially to anyone who has a performance tune as the dealer will wipe it out with a reflash.
Good luck and let us know what the service man says.

 

That is what I was trying to determine....if the recall had been done or not. I thought it had been since I column did not actually lock and it dies at 2 mph. Since this is the case, it does not appear the the CLB will help will help with the fuel cutoff? Does the CLB just bypass the physical lock or does it stop the code from being thrown so the fuel will stay on???

.....After reading alot of the full post on the topic, I bet I had the re-program for the fuel cut off and the locking ring removed and maybe now a bad k harness plus . I plan to call dealership first thing to see what my vehical history is.

If that is the case, maybe I can just remove the k harness if it is fautly and get the CLB?

 

You need to find someone with HP Tuners or EFI Live tuning software. With this software the fuel cutoff speed can be set to some high value up to 256-MPH. (200-MPH should suffice) GM will NOT reset the fuel cutoff point, that’s why the aforementioned software is required.

If the lock plate in the steering column is removed so that the column will never lock, you will not be stranded in the future due to the column lock issue – with the fuel cutoff speed raised also.

You must also install a “CLB” to avoid the error messages in the DIC.

P.S. - as "8VETTE7" stated

Be aware that the early C5's like yours sometimes have issues with the CLB working properly.

Just understand that with the fuel cutoff speed raised, AND the lock plate removed you will not be stranded, but you may or may not get error messages through the DIC even with the CLB.

 

Thanks for fully explaining the recall issue with respect to the NHTSA. So here I am experiencing the problem for the third time in my '00. In the faq's there was mention of removing the bypass altogether. How does that compare to resetting the fuel shut off to 255? I really don't want to bring it back to the dealer, and prefer for a qualified local shop to do the work. It seems like the CLB removal is the easiest fix-something I can do myself?

 

These statements are not true

 

It seems the best solution now is to send your PCM to a reputable tuner and have him reprogram it to not shut off fuel until 255mph if a BCM glitch occurs. Just check to make sure you can crank your steering wheel when the key is OUT of the ignition. This will tell you the locking ring mechanism has been disabled. I have always avoided the dealer at all costs and now with tuners able to solve this fiasco for good, the dealer is not even an option. You can have a tuner do this and get you more performance for less than $200.

 

You guys are great and thanks to 8VETTE7 for the full description. Since I was able to SLOWLY drive it into the dealership garage(back up , turn around, etc) I assume my column lock physically wont happen so on to the fuel.

I will order a CLB today and see if it can help. I will see what the dealer says tomorrow monring and either have the car towed home cause of fuel cutoff or see if I can get it to work. Do you think they will remove the k harness for me if it is there??? That is the strange thing. It left me stranded yesterday for about 45 mins with fuel cutoff then I tried it again and no error message and everything was normal. The next stop it started again...go figure. It has done this a few times over the last few days but eventually works again.

Thanks for all the great advice and I will keep everyone updated. If I need to send to a tuner, any suggestions. I sure this is probably nobody in Wichita, KS.

Does anyone know how to check what recalls have been done on-line? I know the dealer can tell me Monday but I just wanted to have as much info as possible.

 

I am sure one of the sponsors here can help you out. I send mine to Steve at tunedbyfrost.com. He has the very latest software and very strong credentials from members at LS1tech.com. He is also a moderator on the tuning page and sponsor over there. I hang out there more because I also have always been a f-body man until recently...still have a 99 TA. I dont know of any online source to check you vehicle service details.

 

Your problem is actually pretty simple. Your K-Harness took a dump. Replace it with a new k-harness or a clb. Being that your car is a 97 the CLB may not work. You may have to go the k-harness route. The first thing I woud do is get the car home and remove the k-harness and hook it back up stock. If everything works then you know it is the k-harness. Then its your choice from there.

 

Well my early 2000(built in 9/99) has been very happy with the CLB,,works for me!! With a new Red Top,,don't assume anything though,,check the voltage at the terminals! There are ALL kinds of stories here on the forum about new or almost new Optimas shooting craps!! Check and be sure.It IS most likely your K-harness!!

 

Just talked with dealership and they told me they are looking at it now. What is scary is they said the it shows it is not under a recall and that no recall work has been done. According to the 4006 recall my VIN is in the valid range of cars.

My question back to the group is about the fuel cutoff. Could it be there WITHOUT a recall being done?

Before I got this post done the just called back and said the accuator is sticking and it is 600 bucks to fix.

Thoughts from anyone?

 

I removed the bypass harness from mine cause it did this. Once in a great while it still does this when i start it up. Im guessing its because the car has been sitting and the battery voltage wasnt completely up on startup. Shut it off and then start it up and mine is fine. Probably does it once a month. GM = FAIL.

 

Just got the car back from the dealer. I got lucky...put the key in and drove it home after they had to push it out of the bay to the front garage door. I plan to check for the K harness tonight.

My column lock does function when key is out but never gets locked even though the display says it is. I got the VIS report from the dealer and it states under labor "v1145 - 04006 - perform reprogram and functional test - manuals on". I aske the dealer morning and he stated it did not have the recall done...but that is the recall number. They also said the k harness for automatics only.....is that true or are they wrong again?

AND a BONUS...now the ac does not blow cold on the drivers side...only the passengers. I guess that teaches me for taking it into the shop.

 

Find a new dealer he dont no what the hell he's talking about. From the sound of things alss your problem is ,is the k-harness . remove it hook it back up stock and Ill bet your problems are gone for now. Then either get a new k-harness or clb and you should be good to go........ For your A/C problem it just needs to be reset 2 ways to do this ,dic or unhook battery for about 10 mins and rehook it......

 

Omg, that dealership is full of incompetent ***holes. I had the same problem with my M6. GM dealers are incapable of reading and comprehending that they are supposed to remove the lock plate on manual cars. I had to take my car back a second time to get the lock plate removed.

I recommend printing out the recall notice, and taking that with you to the next dealership. Read over the recall carefully before you go, it is a confusing POS. Then, when the service tech tries to mislead you, you will have the correct information in hand to counter their myopic onslaught.

 

incase you need it, recall attached

 

Ok, I have a new twist on this saga A couple weeks ago I got the wait 10 sec msg a couple of times then the service column lock. I ordered the clb and when I installed it in my car had the k-harness in it and the lock pin removed. so I took out the k-harness and installed the clb. Now this is where it gets strange I was still getting the wait 10 sec msg about every other start. So after reading a million post on this I cleaned the key,cleaned the grounds, charged the battery, cleared all the codes, and disconnected the battery for about an hour. Now I don't get any msg sometimes but the car still dies after moving a couple of feet So far I have been able to restart it and drive it

PS, 98 a4

 

Ok, I understand what you are saying. My next question then is this I have a dyno tune on my car by an out of state tuner. If I take my car to a local tuner will he be able to tune this out with out changing my dyno tune?

 

Thank you for your answers Sorry to the op for hi-jacking his thread but this is on topic and could some others