Oil Change Basics
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Annapolis MD
Oil Change Basics
I have a couple of basic questions for a 2000 oil change. Please don't make too much fun of me!
1. How much M1 synthetic is required for an oil/filter change? Is it actually 6.5 quarts as listed in the owner's manual, or somewhat less?
2. Which Fram oil filter is preferred? Fram's choices are the basic ExtraGuard ("3x engine protection"), the middle-level ToughGuard ("6x engine protection"), or the top ExtendedGuard ("10k miles protection").
Any advice would be most appreciated.
1. How much M1 synthetic is required for an oil/filter change? Is it actually 6.5 quarts as listed in the owner's manual, or somewhat less?
2. Which Fram oil filter is preferred? Fram's choices are the basic ExtraGuard ("3x engine protection"), the middle-level ToughGuard ("6x engine protection"), or the top ExtendedGuard ("10k miles protection").
Any advice would be most appreciated.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,643
Likes: 167
The amount of oil needed can vary slightly, but generally it's around 6.5 qts. Some owners put up to 7 qts in, but you need to check how much your vette needs. I'd start with 6.5 qts, then check the level after letting the engine run for a minute or two and then off for a few minutes (to allow the oil to drain back into the oil pan).
As for the filter, I personally prefer Mobil1. My second choice would be Wix (somewhat cheaper than the Mobil1).
As for the filter, I personally prefer Mobil1. My second choice would be Wix (somewhat cheaper than the Mobil1).
Pro
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 632
Likes: 6
From: St. Louis Missouri
Use Wix or AC Delco.
Definitely stay away from Fram (for any of your vehicles)
There have been too many problems reported on Mobil1 oil filters for me.
It's your car but you asked for opinions.
Oh and what the others say about putting in 6.5 quarts then run it a bit and check level.
Definitely stay away from Fram (for any of your vehicles)
There have been too many problems reported on Mobil1 oil filters for me.
It's your car but you asked for opinions.
Oh and what the others say about putting in 6.5 quarts then run it a bit and check level.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,018
Likes: 52
From: Deltona Fl.
Use Wix or AC Delco.
Definitely stay away from Fram (for any of your vehicles)
There have been too many problems reported on Mobil1 oil filters for me.
It's your car but you asked for opinions.
Oh and what the others say about putting in 6.5 quarts then run it a bit and check level.
Definitely stay away from Fram (for any of your vehicles)
There have been too many problems reported on Mobil1 oil filters for me.
It's your car but you asked for opinions.
Oh and what the others say about putting in 6.5 quarts then run it a bit and check level.
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Drifting
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,993
Likes: 7
From: LaPine Oregon
calibrate your dip stick Jimmy
If this car is new to you , I suggest that you calibrate the dip stick . A common practice that is often overlooked for every new engine , production or custom built is to calibrate the engine dip stick. Particulary when over filling has led to oil consumption by several pre 2001 C5 owners on this forum alone.
The practice is as simple as draining the engine's oil, R&R a pre filled oil filter ( use recommended filter) on a level surface. Add the specific amount of oil. Run the engine . Shut off engine and leave time for engine oil drain back. Remove the dip stick and note its location on the stick. If needed remark the appropriate oil level.
The practice is as simple as draining the engine's oil, R&R a pre filled oil filter ( use recommended filter) on a level surface. Add the specific amount of oil. Run the engine . Shut off engine and leave time for engine oil drain back. Remove the dip stick and note its location on the stick. If needed remark the appropriate oil level.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 6,937
Likes: 21
From: Waldorf MD
6.5 quarts oil. Some (later years) C5's show full at the 1/2 hash mark (normally means a quart low, this is why some people add in 7 quarts). Early years C5's show full at the top of the hash mark (normal full level). Owner's manual says you can add in another quart if going road racing (but drain it out afterwards), so 7 quarts is no big deal.
I use WIX or NAPA Gold (same filter). You can use the regular DELCO filter, it is okay and engine will go 200,000 miles with it (changing it of course). I would NOT use DELCO Premium (UPF-44) or Mobil 1, they filter too good, at cost of flow. I don't use Fram, but did years ago on other cars.
Raising rear higher than front drains out another 4 ounces of oil. You must allow extra time for the oil pan to drain (10 minutes minimum).
I use WIX or NAPA Gold (same filter). You can use the regular DELCO filter, it is okay and engine will go 200,000 miles with it (changing it of course). I would NOT use DELCO Premium (UPF-44) or Mobil 1, they filter too good, at cost of flow. I don't use Fram, but did years ago on other cars.
Raising rear higher than front drains out another 4 ounces of oil. You must allow extra time for the oil pan to drain (10 minutes minimum).
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,363
Likes: 7
From: 1994 LT1 Coupe 6-speed with FX3 & 2000 LS1 Vert 6-Speed with F45 Hunterdon County, NJ
I have a couple of basic questions for a 2000 oil change. Please don't make too much fun of me!
1. How much M1 synthetic is required for an oil/filter change? Is it actually 6.5 quarts as listed in the owner's manual, or somewhat less?
2. Which Fram oil filter is preferred? Fram's choices are the basic ExtraGuard ("3x engine protection"), the middle-level ToughGuard ("6x engine protection"), or the top ExtendedGuard ("10k miles protection").
Any advice would be most appreciated.
1. How much M1 synthetic is required for an oil/filter change? Is it actually 6.5 quarts as listed in the owner's manual, or somewhat less?
2. Which Fram oil filter is preferred? Fram's choices are the basic ExtraGuard ("3x engine protection"), the middle-level ToughGuard ("6x engine protection"), or the top ExtendedGuard ("10k miles protection").
Any advice would be most appreciated.
1. If the 'oil pan' is slightly tipped forward (higher in the rear, but not too much, as there are baffles in the pan), and allowed to drain for at least 1/2 hour -- then it will take 7 quarts.
Please note that car level does NOT equal oil pan level. I wrote-up a procedure for lifting the car which also notes the need to elevate the rear 2 jack-stand-notches higher -- or more -- depending on the oil-change location --- e.g. some garage floors are slanted more than others -- so use a level under the oil pan once jacked-up to be sure.
2. Don't use FRAM (especially -- he extraguard and extended guard) there have been many reviews/inspections/disections of fram filters to turn most off of them.
Personally, I have used Mobil-1 filters for years on all three cars (2 vettes 1 transam) without any problem -- and reviews show it to be very good -- your 2000 LS1 engine uses the 'm-107' (have same engine in our 2000 vette and transam). Available at Autozone and some wallyworlds.
btw, here's the write-up I mentioned above:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...ting-pads.html
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,643
Likes: 167
http://www.bestcovery.com/node/17184
K&N filters are excellent as well, just a bit more pricey than Mobil 1.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 632
Likes: 6
From: St. Louis Missouri
No links. I just have read plenty of posts over the last year and a half to 2 years to make me avoid them. It's never definite and there are always plenty of people who chime in and say how long they've been using Mobil1 filters with great success. But since there are other great filters out there, I've decided to sidestep the controversy and just buy something else.
