So last night my passenger side window wouldn't go down, and the door lock wouldn't work by button, or remote.

Grabbing the rubber wire protector that goes from the console to the door and wiggling it would temporary solve the problem.

There are other issues out there, but below is what was wrong with mine, and my fix.

**Edited**


Check Write up for Solution.

 

Passenger door window quit working, door lock/unlock quit working, and the solenoid for the auto lock wouldn't work either... only manually locking the door would work.

Fixed the problem. Here are a few pictures, and a write up of what I did.


I first disconnected the battery, as this circuit still has power even with the ignition off, and it's just good practice.

Opened the door, then using my finger I slipped it between the rubber shielding that connects the door and dash. Both ends of the rubber shielding will pull out, allowing you to pull the slack out from behind the dash.

You can disconnect the two sets of wires at their plugs, and completely remove the rubber shielding.

You should have something looking like this:



I then used one hand to cover direct light from the door control panel, and I could see when it was lit, and when it wasn't. I very easily could get it to flicker on and off just by wiggling/torquing the black plug.

Unplugging it showed that it was a little corroded, and more so, there were two pins on the "female" side that were loose.

I sprayed contact cleaner in both sides then used a tiny blade screw driver to scrape and clean both sides as best I could.

I then went in the female side from the back, got the blade of the screw driver behind the flap, and was able to twist the screw driver to tighten the connection.

The "cream" colored wire far left in this picture, was the wire for me that was the worst.



After cleaning and reassembling, I decided to check the fuse box, and replace the fuses. (not usually needed) but with it being intermittent for so long, I wanted to check anyway.

Remove your passenger floor mat, then you'll see a removable kick panel. Take it off, and you'll see the screw top lid for the fuse box.



Fuses number 30 and 33 are the DCM-R and DCM-L (Door Control Module Left/Right)

My fuses had shown some wear, like they had arched a few times, but they were still "functional". I replaced both of them anyway.



Note: the fuse box lid goes on upside down. The lettering is inverted when on correctly. This caused me about 5 minutes of frustration because I didn't note the orientation when I removed it. =]

Plugged in the harness, and tested my work. It worked perfectly. No amount of wire wiggle, or twisting on the plug would cause it to turn off/quit working.

Unplugged, and reinstalled the rubber protector, cleaned up my mess and wallah. Fixed passenger window.

Hope this write up helps someone out there. It's not the best, but my first one. I'm sure there will be more to come.