Having a problem removing the Power Steering Pump
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 464
Likes: 0
From: Spartanburg SC
Having a problem removing the Power Steering Pump
I am removing the alternator bracket and im getting to the part where I have to remove the power steering pump. How the heck do you get the bottom hose portion off? I have tried the bolt by the pump, and also the 18 mm bolt by the rack. I had no luck disconnecting either one. Any tips for getting this power steering pump removed from the car so I can get the new bracket in?
Yes ive searched. And yes ive seen the writeup on LS1howto.com.
-thanks
Yes ive searched. And yes ive seen the writeup on LS1howto.com.
-thanks
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 16,477
Likes: 26
From: Gone
CI 6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03
Remove the two 18mm fittings where the PS lines enter the pinion housing on the rack.
You will need an 18mm flare wrench, from the factory they are usually VERY tight, and an open-end wrench will only round the hex of the fitting.
These are generally easiest to get at through the wheelwell, you will need to remove LF wheel to get at them.
Once you get those undone, remove the 4 bolts securing bracket to the head, lift the whole bracket/pump/pulley assembly out.
Once on the bench, take a hammer and whack the PS pulley, it's a brittle plastic and should break right in half. Use a puller to remove the steel pulley hub that's still on the pump shaft.
Then remove pump from bracket, swap into new bracket, press new PS pulley on, swap the other things also hanging on the bracket (PS reservoir and idler pulley), and reinstall the assembly back on the engine. Reconnect PS lines, and follow bleed procedure once up and running.
Also, be warned the 4 bolts attaching bracket to head are of different lengths...some are held captive while the reservoir is still attached, but don't mix them up in the process of switching parts over to the new bracket. (ask me how I know this
).
You will need an 18mm flare wrench, from the factory they are usually VERY tight, and an open-end wrench will only round the hex of the fitting.
These are generally easiest to get at through the wheelwell, you will need to remove LF wheel to get at them.
Once you get those undone, remove the 4 bolts securing bracket to the head, lift the whole bracket/pump/pulley assembly out.
Once on the bench, take a hammer and whack the PS pulley, it's a brittle plastic and should break right in half. Use a puller to remove the steel pulley hub that's still on the pump shaft.
Then remove pump from bracket, swap into new bracket, press new PS pulley on, swap the other things also hanging on the bracket (PS reservoir and idler pulley), and reinstall the assembly back on the engine. Reconnect PS lines, and follow bleed procedure once up and running.
Also, be warned the 4 bolts attaching bracket to head are of different lengths...some are held captive while the reservoir is still attached, but don't mix them up in the process of switching parts over to the new bracket. (ask me how I know this
).
Racer
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 448
Likes: 29
From: Regina SK
If you just want the alternator bracket off and aren't replacing the power steering pump, it was way easier for me not to remove the hoses to the rack. Pull the reservoir off and plug the hoses to the pump. Leave the hoses to the rack connected. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the bracket to the head (yes, you can reach all of them with a socket, others with an open end wrench). Pull the bracket away from the head. Rotate it up and counter clockwise to provide clearance to put a deep socket through the hole in the power steering pump pully and remove the two bolts that hold the pump to the bracket. The bracket can then be removed, leaving the p/s pump in place.
This is the final result:
This is the final result:
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 16,477
Likes: 26
From: Gone
CI 6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 464
Likes: 0
From: Spartanburg SC
Remove the two 18mm fittings where the PS lines enter the pinion housing on the rack.
You will need an 18mm flare wrench, from the factory they are usually VERY tight, and an open-end wrench will only round the hex of the fitting.
These are generally easiest to get at through the wheelwell, you will need to remove LF wheel to get at them.
Once you get those undone, remove the 4 bolts securing bracket to the head, lift the whole bracket/pump/pulley assembly out.
Once on the bench, take a hammer and whack the PS pulley, it's a brittle plastic and should break right in half. Use a puller to remove the steel pulley hub that's still on the pump shaft.
Then remove pump from bracket, swap into new bracket, press new PS pulley on, swap the other things also hanging on the bracket (PS reservoir and idler pulley), and reinstall the assembly back on the engine. Reconnect PS lines, and follow bleed procedure once up and running.
Also, be warned the 4 bolts attaching bracket to head are of different lengths...some are held captive while the reservoir is still attached, but don't mix them up in the process of switching parts over to the new bracket. (ask me how I know this ).
You will need an 18mm flare wrench, from the factory they are usually VERY tight, and an open-end wrench will only round the hex of the fitting.
These are generally easiest to get at through the wheelwell, you will need to remove LF wheel to get at them.
Once you get those undone, remove the 4 bolts securing bracket to the head, lift the whole bracket/pump/pulley assembly out.
Once on the bench, take a hammer and whack the PS pulley, it's a brittle plastic and should break right in half. Use a puller to remove the steel pulley hub that's still on the pump shaft.
Then remove pump from bracket, swap into new bracket, press new PS pulley on, swap the other things also hanging on the bracket (PS reservoir and idler pulley), and reinstall the assembly back on the engine. Reconnect PS lines, and follow bleed procedure once up and running.
Also, be warned the 4 bolts attaching bracket to head are of different lengths...some are held captive while the reservoir is still attached, but don't mix them up in the process of switching parts over to the new bracket. (ask me how I know this
).
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 16,477
Likes: 26
From: Gone
CI 6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03
Just figure each bolt penetrates into the head about the same depth (3/4" or so), and comparing the bolt lengths to the depth of bracket casting will make it obvious which one goes where.
It's just a good tip to know before you're trying to reinstall it on the head....which is not a fun task to begin with.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 464
Likes: 0
From: Spartanburg SC
You can easily figure it out while the bracket is off.
Just figure each bolt penetrates into the head about the same depth (3/4" or so), and comparing the bolt lengths to the depth of bracket casting will make it obvious which one goes where.
It's just a good tip to know before you're trying to reinstall it on the head....which is not a fun task to begin with.
Just figure each bolt penetrates into the head about the same depth (3/4" or so), and comparing the bolt lengths to the depth of bracket casting will make it obvious which one goes where.
It's just a good tip to know before you're trying to reinstall it on the head....which is not a fun task to begin with.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 448
Likes: 29
From: Regina SK
You are correct, but the 3rd one does not hold the pump in, it secures part of a separate bracket that the two other bolts go through. That 3rd bolt is accessed with an open end wrench between the alternator bracket and the pulley.
As for the pulley, every one I have seen has holes in it that allow access to the two power steering bolts.
As for the pulley, every one I have seen has holes in it that allow access to the two power steering bolts.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 464
Likes: 0
From: Spartanburg SC
You are correct, but the 3rd one does not hold the pump in, it secures part of a separate bracket that the two other bolts go through. That 3rd bolt is accessed with an open end wrench between the alternator bracket and the pulley.
As for the pulley, every one I have seen has holes in it that allow access to the two power steering bolts.
As for the pulley, every one I have seen has holes in it that allow access to the two power steering bolts.