Well I started the task of replacing my Z51 sway bars on my 99 with C6Z51 bars that I got from the Gene Cully deal today.
I thought it would be an easy task........I should have known better.
My 99 had the old style plastic end links so I bought new metal end links. And getting the old end links off was a major PITA. As my luck usually has it I did not have any 18mm sockets or 18mm end wrenches......seems my trusty Craftsman sets skip from 17mm to 19mm. I also did not know I needed a Torx T40 bit to hold the end link bolt while I struggled to get the old nuts off.......
so off to the parts store for:
18mm Deep Well Socket
18mm Combo wrench
T40 bit.

All the nuts on my end links and the two on the bushing saddle looked like they had been hit with a punch or chisel to hold them in place. This made removal VERY difficult and SLOW. Same on reinstall.
My tip, buy a fresh set of nuts before you begin.....or your nuts will regret it No idea what they cost, but I would have gladly paid $25 or sow to avoid the slow tightening back on the end links where you have to hold the end link boly still with an 18mm open end wrench as you tighten with a 18mm socket.......many times the open end slipped off and cracked my knuckles

As a result I only got my rear bar on today........I guess I will do the front tomorrow. Since it is after 5 here no chance of checking local dealers for new nuts today

Wonder what new lessons the front will teach me

Below are the torque specs, not that you can use them on the end links with the way the bolts work.

Front

Stabilizer Shaft Insulator Clamp Bolts 58 N·m 43 lb ft

Stabilizer Shaft Link Nuts 72 N·m 53 lb ft
-------------
Rear

Stabilizer Shaft Insulator (Lower) Clamp Nut 95 N·m 70 lb ft

Stabilizer Shaft Insulator (Upr) Clamp Bolt 65 N·m 49 lb ft

Stabilizer Shaft Link Nuts 72 N·m 53 lb ft

 

Some searching through my archive of Vette info I found a part number.....I looked at GMPartshouse and didn't get a return.
So I searched Google and got a hit at GMPartsdirect for the end link nuts.

Note: Shows as a Special Order part.......

GM PART # 11515744
CATEGORY: All
PACK QTY: 1
CORE CHARGE: $0.00
GM LIST: $4.38
OUR PRICE: $2.60
DESCRIPTION: NUT-HEX

Also the correct size shows as: M12 x 1.75 x 14 "shoulder nut"

 

Don't buy new ones, they are lock nuts and made that way for a reason!

 

I'm sorry to hear of your bad experience. I feel bad. Hopefully better news will follow tomorrow.

 

Thanks Gene, not the fault of the new parts......just my lack of the proper tools and patience

Do you know if the nuts are supposed to be that difficult to thread ? I checked every one for cross threading and that was not the problem.

 

HaHa..I'm glad I'm not the only one with the experience of fighting the old ones off! Hope my little bit of information helped. When I did the front, I found it best to snug up the endlink to the car first, loosely bolt up the frame bushings, attach the endlink to the sway bar, then go back and tighten everything down.

Ps. The back ones are easier than the front ones. Better luck for you tomorrow.

 

Oh great...........

 

Good to know as I am getting ready to do the same thing.

So, does GM recommend reusing original end link and bushing bolts?

Also, is it easier to swap bars with the weight of the car on the wheels or not?

 

18mm box end and a T40 3/8" socket drive and ratchet worked great together for me. This was changing out the rears. I took the wheels off for easy access and reused the nuts. The nuts went back on using the same pressure they came off with. Let the A-Arms hang unsupported. The front endlinks on mine are steel, therefore I'm leaving them alone.

Wear mechanix gloves or the equivalent.

 

So, does GM recommend reusing original end link and bushing bolts? Don't know

Also, is it easier to swap bars with the weight of the car on the wheels or not? I had mine on Rhino rams, so weight was on......but it didn't seem to matter

 

If you plan on working on your car yourself in the future, you should consider some type of power assisted tools. Air powered or electric doesn't matter but they make some jobs just so much easier you won't believe it.

 

Thanks,

I have been working on my cars since about 1962.

I tried using my air ratchet, but that was not possible because on the old style plastic end links you have to hold the bolt still with a T40 in it's end while turning the nut with a wrench......can't do it with a socket, powered or hand held.
Similar when replacing the nuts on the new end links, they also have to be held with one wrench while tightening the nut with the other.
And air wrenches and aluminum can often lead to stripped threads.

 

When you do the front you may find that it is easier with the wheels off, You can get at the end links from the wheel well much easier.

When removing the front bar make note of its orientation as it is possible to install backwards and have it rub the lower control arm.

It sound like you are having fun, and any excuse to buy new tools is a good excuse!

 

Wheels off for the front install it makes life so much easier .

 

I did mine myself...dont recall having any tool or fastener issues.

I'll tell you this tho...you'll be really happy when it's all done! Corners will feel like it's on rails and virtually no body roll!

 

You will love them, good luck on the fronts

Chuck

 

And don't use air tools or power tools to remove or reinstall.
It will ruin the locking feature of the nut, they are designed to only be turned at low speed.

 

Judging by your write up I think most of your problem stems from your lack of familiarity with the hardware......don`t feel bad we all had a "first go" at various projects!

Here are a couple of tips that can help:
1. Instead of a torx...on the inside of the metal end link you can push back the rubber boot to find a flange (18mm I think) that you can use an open-end wrench to hold the flange while torquing the nut...

2. On the front...I would remove the wheels for easy access, remove the end links first (some times it helps to jack up the lower a-arm until it takes the bind off the link) next you can remove the insulator clamps (13mm) and drop the bar down...
3. The bolts are re-usable unless you boogered them up during removeal..
4. It may help to install the bar w/endlinks to the a-arms first (again, you can jack up the lower a-arm to line up the bolts w/holes), this will allow the bar to hang...then you can swing the bar up in place to install the insulator clamps (don`t forget to lube the insulators well!)
5. One last trick....on removal, drop the bar straight down and lay it on the floor....now lay/match the new bar to the old so that you don't try and install it backwards...

Good luck!

 

Ragtop Rick
1. Instead of a torx...on the inside of the metal end link you can push back the rubber boot to find a flange (18mm I think) that you can use an open-end wrench to hold the flange while torquing the nut...

No flange on the 99 plastic end links. The new metal ones have these but they are so thin that I could not really get a solid hold on them with a wrench to torque

 

Update:

The front was much easier.
The nuts were not nearly as hard to remove.
Took about 1.5 hours

Thanks for all the help!