Fixed my EBCM!!!
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Fixed my EBCM!!!
After a year of driving around looking at my ABS and Traction lights on the dash I decided to do a little research. I looked at just about every thread on this forum looking for ideas and I finally found one I was capable of doing right away.
I don't want to make this sounds super easy, but with mediocre mechanical skills it can be done.
1.) Remove the EBCM, this involves removing 6 T20 Torx screws and two wiring connections.
2.) Remove the 4 Torx screws holding the plate on the EBCM Unit.
3.) This part was very hard for me but if you do what I did at the end it should be easy, the plate is held on by some VERY tough black sealant that is gonna need some heat to break loose, I use a butane torch and slowly pryed around the edge till it popped off.
4.) Now for this last step you are gonna need a desoldering gun, there is a white relay in-between the two boards that has 5 soldered connections to the board. Apparently the manufacturer of this part did not do a very good job and after time the connections will break loose causing the unit not to work. All I did was desolder and resolder those 5 connections and reinstalled the unit. To my surprise on the very 1st start up my dash lights were off and my Traction/ABS was in full working order.
I have no clue if this will work for everybody but it worked for me and IMO is worth a try. I bought the desoldering gun at Radio Shack for $12.00, also bought some contact cleaner and silicone sealant to reseal the plate after I was done.
I don't want to make this sounds super easy, but with mediocre mechanical skills it can be done.
1.) Remove the EBCM, this involves removing 6 T20 Torx screws and two wiring connections.
2.) Remove the 4 Torx screws holding the plate on the EBCM Unit.
3.) This part was very hard for me but if you do what I did at the end it should be easy, the plate is held on by some VERY tough black sealant that is gonna need some heat to break loose, I use a butane torch and slowly pryed around the edge till it popped off.
4.) Now for this last step you are gonna need a desoldering gun, there is a white relay in-between the two boards that has 5 soldered connections to the board. Apparently the manufacturer of this part did not do a very good job and after time the connections will break loose causing the unit not to work. All I did was desolder and resolder those 5 connections and reinstalled the unit. To my surprise on the very 1st start up my dash lights were off and my Traction/ABS was in full working order.
I have no clue if this will work for everybody but it worked for me and IMO is worth a try. I bought the desoldering gun at Radio Shack for $12.00, also bought some contact cleaner and silicone sealant to reseal the plate after I was done.
Last edited by sprayed1998; 06-20-2009 at 05:51 PM.
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
1 day and counting lol, ill keep you guys updated if it decides to act up again. But considering two of the connections to that relay were not even touching the board I think it's gonna hold up.
#5
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Sounds great! Thanks for sharing.
Could you please take the time to post the threads that helped? Your descriptions are generally good, but it would be nice to have more info.
I'd like to fix mine. I have the notorious ebcm issue right now, this would be a nice weekend project.
Could you please take the time to post the threads that helped? Your descriptions are generally good, but it would be nice to have more info.
I'd like to fix mine. I have the notorious ebcm issue right now, this would be a nice weekend project.
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
This site helped me a bit although it did not show the white relay that has the bad connections.
http://www.bustedcar.com/our_pictures1.htm
But you can not miss it. It is on the end of the module and it clearly visible, it is white with 5 or 6 prongs that connect to the motherboard.
http://www.bustedcar.com/our_pictures1.htm
But you can not miss it. It is on the end of the module and it clearly visible, it is white with 5 or 6 prongs that connect to the motherboard.
#8
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Cruise-In VII Veteran
This site helped me a bit although it did not show the white relay that has the bad connections.
http://www.bustedcar.com/our_pictures1.htm
But you can not miss it. It is on the end of the module and it clearly visible, it is white with 5 or 6 prongs that connect to the motherboard.
http://www.bustedcar.com/our_pictures1.htm
But you can not miss it. It is on the end of the module and it clearly visible, it is white with 5 or 6 prongs that connect to the motherboard.
absfixer??? not anymore
#10
Team Owner
Great info, great post!
I only wish my '99 EBCM was something I could tackle like this, but unfortunately it is completely different and replacement is the name of the game.
I only wish my '99 EBCM was something I could tackle like this, but unfortunately it is completely different and replacement is the name of the game.
#11
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This site helped me a bit although it did not show the white relay that has the bad connections.
http://www.bustedcar.com/our_pictures1.htm
But you can not miss it. It is on the end of the module and it clearly visible, it is white with 5 or 6 prongs that connect to the motherboard.
http://www.bustedcar.com/our_pictures1.htm
But you can not miss it. It is on the end of the module and it clearly visible, it is white with 5 or 6 prongs that connect to the motherboard.
When do mine in a week or so I'll take plenty of pictures/list descriptions so it might be added to the DIY sticky.
#12
I had another thread going on this.
I ended up putting in the $1.54 new relay. Got three spares now too.
I'm one day and counting also.
I ended up putting the black gasket maker on top of the relay to keep it in place but didn't do more clear silicon. I gasket makered the hell out of the lip after wire brushing the plate and body. Also replugged the pressing hole. Shouldn't be a tough to redo in the future.
I ended up putting in the $1.54 new relay. Got three spares now too.
I'm one day and counting also.
I ended up putting the black gasket maker on top of the relay to keep it in place but didn't do more clear silicon. I gasket makered the hell out of the lip after wire brushing the plate and body. Also replugged the pressing hole. Shouldn't be a tough to redo in the future.
#13
Safety Car
Wow, just sent mine off to the absfixer Thursday! At least I will have a lifetime guarantee. Hopefully Joshua will get a write up done with pics and a sticky. There are always as least 3 to 5 threads about the 1214 code at all times.
#14
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Cowabunga!
After a year of driving around looking at my ABS and Traction lights on the dash I decided to do a little research. I looked at just about every thread on this forum looking for ideas and I finally found one I was capable of doing right away.
I don't want to make this sounds super easy, but with mediocre mechanical skills it can be done.
1.) Remove the EBCM, this involves removing 6 T20 Torx screws and two wiring connections.
2.) Remove the 4 Torx screws holding the plate on the EBCM Unit.
3.) This part was very hard for me but if you do what I did at the end it should be easy, the plate is held on by some VERY tough black sealant that is gonna need some heat to break loose, I use a butane torch and slowly pryed around the edge till it popped off.
4.) Now for this last step you are gonna need a desoldering gun, there is a white relay in-between the two boards that has 5 soldered connections to the board. Apparently the manufacturer of this part did not do a very good job and after time the connections will break loose causing the unit not to work. All I did was desolder and resolder those 5 connections and reinstalled the unit. To my surprise on the very 1st start up my dash lights were off and my Traction/ABS was in full working order.
I have no clue if this will work for everybody but it worked for me and IMO is worth a try. I bought the desoldering gun at Radio Shack for $12.00, also bought some contact cleaner and silicone sealant to reseal the plate after I was done.
I don't want to make this sounds super easy, but with mediocre mechanical skills it can be done.
1.) Remove the EBCM, this involves removing 6 T20 Torx screws and two wiring connections.
2.) Remove the 4 Torx screws holding the plate on the EBCM Unit.
3.) This part was very hard for me but if you do what I did at the end it should be easy, the plate is held on by some VERY tough black sealant that is gonna need some heat to break loose, I use a butane torch and slowly pryed around the edge till it popped off.
4.) Now for this last step you are gonna need a desoldering gun, there is a white relay in-between the two boards that has 5 soldered connections to the board. Apparently the manufacturer of this part did not do a very good job and after time the connections will break loose causing the unit not to work. All I did was desolder and resolder those 5 connections and reinstalled the unit. To my surprise on the very 1st start up my dash lights were off and my Traction/ABS was in full working order.
I have no clue if this will work for everybody but it worked for me and IMO is worth a try. I bought the desoldering gun at Radio Shack for $12.00, also bought some contact cleaner and silicone sealant to reseal the plate after I was done.
#15
Racer
Thread Starter
I had seen that alot of people had been changing the relay and was about to order one myself, but I found a post about how somebody had contacted ABSFIXER and he had told them that alot of the times it is nothing more than the contacts to that relay so I gave it a shot and it worked. Hopefully this will help people in the future.
#17
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#18
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When your EBCM went bad and you were getting the errors, did all of your tire pressure sensors show blank spaces next to them? I just go the TCS, ABS, errors when i turn the key and noticed that none of my tire pressure sensors are showing anything.
#20
Team Owner
Your TPM's transmit their data to the same radio receiver used by your key fob, which in turn then sends the information on to your DIC. They are not a part of the ABS/Traction Control system.