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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 05:19 AM
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Default Clutch installation.

I have a 01 Z and have been debating on replacing the clutch myself. The clutch now is stock, and is basically done, the pedal is very high.

I have a Tex OZ 700 in my garage for the car. I want the hydraulics to be replaced as well.

How hard is this to do? Everyone I have talked to have said dont do it in your garage. They have me worried about it being difficult. My main concern is not doing this the right way.

I know I have to replace the throw out bearing and it is also a good idea to replace the torque tube bushings once that is being put back in.

I am mechanically inclined, I have done everything from tranny/convertor swaps, motor builds. This kind of scares me as The whole *** end of the car has to come out. I have never replaced a clutch before. What else would I need? Any special tools for clearances etc?

Should I do this? How long is an average time to be back on the road with no issues?
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 07:09 AM
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Blowen 346,

Here are my thoughts on this, take them for what it is, one person from the internet.

You will have folks tell you how hard the Corvette is to work on, and don't do this and don't do that. Most true auto mechanics will tell you the Corvette is one of the easiest cars out there to work on. Yes, there are some specialty things that require special tools, but all in all nothing is all that hard if you are willing to take the time.

The clutch seems like it would be rough, but getting the car high enough to start with is probably the hardest part. You need some added support to lower the transaxle assembly, but you need that in any clutch job to remove the trans. The point is, it really isn't that much different if you have already worked on other cars.

I believe that a lot of folks that complain about how hard it is to work on Corvettes are working on Corvettes as a hobby.

Hey, just my humble opinion.
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 07:39 AM
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It's not bad at all. I started mine last night, and with only myself I got as far as getting the rear cradle down and out.

All I have left to do is loosen the front tourqe tube bolts and I will be able to finish removing everything.

Car has to sit for a couple days and then I will finish it up after the holiday.

Just take your time and you will be fine. I think the hardest part is getting the headers out of the way.



Last edited by bluewire; Jul 3, 2009 at 07:50 AM.
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 09:41 AM
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Get yourself a service manual and do it. I did not find it to be that difficult, I did it by myself.
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by bluewire
It's not bad at all. I started mine last night, and with only myself I got as far as getting the rear cradle down and out.

All I have left to do is loosen the front tourqe tube bolts and I will be able to finish removing everything.

Car has to sit for a couple days and then I will finish it up after the holiday.

Just take your time and you will be fine. I think the hardest part is getting the headers out of the way.


Wow....
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 09:57 AM
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No jackstands under that car? Only looks like cinder blocks are holding it up. Not to safe man, jackstands are not that expensive.
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by nickolbag
No jackstands under that car? Only looks like cinder blocks are holding it up. Not to safe man, jackstands are not that expensive.
Yep, and if the jack bleeds down over the weekend.....
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 10:19 AM
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I have done a couple of clutches on M6s as well as a similar converter swap myself on an A4 and it certainly is something a mechanic with your experience/skill can tackle. Just follow the sm and you'll be fine. But use a good set of jackstands to support the car and be safe.



http://redshift.homestead.com/Drivetrain1.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...tml?highlight=
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 10:26 AM
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Bluewire,

As others have pointed out, please get yourself some jack stands. Cinder blocks have been known to shatter without any warning. Could make for a very bad day!!
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 04:54 PM
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Great, I wanted to hear first hand experience. Looks like myself and a buddy will do this. Thanks again for the feedback.
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 09:22 PM
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There are jack stands in front of the blocks, I'm not that dumb. There is also a block and a jack holding the trans up.

One thing to point out though, I feel safer with the blocks than I do the jack stands. In the areas where you can put a jack stand will you never get a good contact surface that is secure if there is any lateral movment. The blacks provide very stable support and the jack stands are there should they fail.

I have seen far scarier setups with standard jackstands on flat surfaces, which is a big no no and at that point you are taking your life in your own hands.

Last edited by bluewire; Jul 3, 2009 at 09:31 PM.
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by bluewire
I have seen far scarier setups with standard jackstands on flat surfaces, which is a big no no and at that point you are taking your life in your own hands.
Why are standard jackstands on flat surfaces a big no no?
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 10:13 PM
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They can very easily slide. A typical jack stand has a slight u or v groove to it and is designed to locate in that groove .

On a flat sruface, metal on metal can slide very easily.

Now lets say you have one end of the car up on stands (flat surface) and you want to jack up the other end.

You are already at risk due to the incline, add the pulling motion of the jack while jacking and you add to the problem.

Lets say a small pebble was on the floor and jams in the jack wheel preventing it from moving. At this point you could very easily pull the car to the point of sliding on the stands.

Bottom line is just be safe. You could have the best jack stands in the world, but if you use them incorrectly it wont matter.
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Blown 346
I have a 01 Z and have been debating on replacing the clutch myself. The clutch now is stock, and is basically done, the pedal is very high.

I have a Tex OZ 700 in my garage for the car. I want the hydraulics to be replaced as well.

How hard is this to do? Everyone I have talked to have said dont do it in your garage. They have me worried about it being difficult. My main concern is not doing this the right way.

I know I have to replace the throw out bearing and it is also a good idea to replace the torque tube bushings once that is being put back in.

I am mechanically inclined, I have done everything from tranny/convertor swaps, motor builds. This kind of scares me as The whole *** end of the car has to come out. I have never replaced a clutch before. What else would I need? Any special tools for clearances etc?

Should I do this? How long is an average time to be back on the road with no issues?
It isn't a hard job. I did it in two afternoons with a lot of time spent searching for tools that were not organized.

"dropping the the whole rear of the car" is actually just a matter of removing like 4 nuts and the whole thing comes down. It isnt hard at all
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Old Jul 4, 2009 | 12:48 AM
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i just finish intalling my clutch on my car like 3 weeks ago, it really not that hard but its just time consuming. I did the swap in my garage with a basic tools. Like every1 has says make sure the car is on the jack stands safely. If u have LT headers all u have to do is unbolt them from the heads. u don't have to take them out off the car and if they are in the way just push them to the side. if u have any questions let me know.


here is a link that was really usefull

http://www.cajundude.com/dopeinstall.doc





Last edited by CHIWS6; Jul 4, 2009 at 12:53 AM.
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