I have a 1999 that was involved in a front end collision. The car will start and run for one second then shut off. I have been told that it is a anti theft issue. Reset procedure? Does anyone have an idea where to start looking? Any threads that deal with this?

 

it is def an anti theft issue.

check for codes.

was the key or ignition cylinder replaced?

has the airbag deployed?

auto or m6?

 

If it was anti-theft, I doubt it would even start or turnover. You need to first pull the codes. I'm going to take a jump out into left field and consider your ignition switch as a possible cause. More information is needed though...check the fuel pressure with a guage when you start it up and when its stopping. If its ignition related, take a look at the grounds on the rear of the driver's side head and insure they are tight. I'm jumping around a bit, sorry...what is still working when the engine shuts off on its own? Is the security light flashing, still on constant or out?

 

your "doubt" is incorrect in my experience. the resistor on the key on mine doesnt make contact correctly sometimes and the car will still start but cut off when it gets over like 1MPH. verrrry annoying.

def need to pull the codes though. that should get things started

 

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc…)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.

Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

Here is very good site of DTC definitions:


http://www.gearchatter.com


Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!

 

It is 1999, six speed and bags were blown. I don't know if the bags would be an issue. ( shop didn't think it would be) .The car is still at the repair shop. I am trying to get a few ideas to run down before I get there. If experience has taught me anything this forum is the best place to start.

 

You certainly have not given us much to go on here. What is the extent of the damage? Are all the sensors to the engine/wiring intact?

 

pull the codes. that should give you a LOT of direction.

 

It was hit in the left front frame rail. All the wiring appears to be good. I will have more to go on when I actually am able to check out the car. I was just hopping that it might be a simple issue, that someone has seen before.

 

I'm sure it is simple, but you have to know what is going on with the fuel pump, crank sensor, etc.

 

I went to the shop today to see what I could find out. On all the modules, except the BCM, I get a "NO COMM" The BCM has seven codes, but only one current one. It is a U 1255 (class 2 serial data line) I am trying to find Powertrain OBD System Check, which is where the manual send me. Anyone ever seen this?

 

How extensive is the damage near the drivers door? I would start isolating the serial data lines using the schematic.

A sure sign on initial start up of a serial data issue is the following:

Fuel gauge- reads empty
Oil pressure- reads zero
Coolant temp- pegged high

 

The ONLY two modules that you need to start and run the engine is the BCM & PCM. If those modules have no issues and all the sensors on the engine work, the engine should start and run. I would disconnect modules one at a time and see if the car start. Start with the DOOR CONTROL MODULES. Pop out the accordion tube between the doors and pull up the two harnesses and dsconnect them. Then try it.

BC

 

Where is the best place to find a complete list of the modules and locations? I have the manuals, but at a loss where to start looking? I found this post ( http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...tcs-etc-2.html )are these the modules in question?

 

The exact location, pin out connector configuration ect..... are located in each service manual.

The INDEX is your friend. Find the module in the index and it will send you to a chapter and page. The chapter is broken down into description then troubleshooting and then replacement. In the replacement part will be a visible location drawing.

 

Bill,
Upon further review, I found the list of modules that are related to the star connectors. Are these the correct ones? The car is in the body shop so I haven't checked the door wiring. Could I be so Lucky? I see from some of your post that this tend to be the culprit quite often. I will also check all the connectors around the battery. I was told there seamed to be some battery acid stains on the computer.
What are the symptoms of a BCM that was replaced and not programed?

 

Yes those are ALL the correct ones. If you have had any amount of acid spill, you need to flush the area with baking soda/water solution and EXAMINE EVERYTHING for corrosion and damage. If the frame is rusting clean nuteralize and paint it semigloss black!

Here is the BCM re-sync emergency procedure:

BCM/PCM RELEARN PROCEDURE


You will need to conduct the PCM/BCM relearn process. This matches their handshake ID's and allows them to talk to each other.

Do this before you worry about VATS issues:

1. Turn on the key for 11 minutes.
2 Turn off the key for 30 seconds.
3. Repeat 1&2 two more times.
4. Turn on the key for 30 seconds.

The car should start and run with the new BCM. Good luck and report back on your progress.
Shirl
SD Racing Enterprises
Aguila, AZ
Coutersy of MrEracer


This will sync the PCM to the New BCM but all of your RPO options will not be retained. You will need a TECH II to program them into the new BCM.

Bill Curlee



BC

 

I had my door jam plugs unpluged and started the car it did just that same thing. are your plugs pluged in?

 

You missed the point...nothing to do with modules not connected.

 

Just my .02 on the BCM handshake thing. (thanks again Bill C)I had to replace mine due to water damage and got one from another 2000 C5 (from Ebay) with I assume all the same RPO option codes and everything works so not going to pay for the Tech II re-do.