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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 01:14 PM
  #1  
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Default Interested in upgrade to a C5!

I currently own a cherry 1992 Polo Green C4. Love the car but have been interested in the C5s for some time now. Is there any specific years or problems I should be aware of? Engine or tranny problems; you know what I am looking for. I appreciate any information I could get. I want to know that facts before I get my feet wet!
Bernie
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 01:41 PM
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Try to get the newest yr u can afford,there's upgrades ,I would probably opt for a 99 ,this was just discussed last week ,on the tech section,some guy got tboned & now hes asking the same questions u are,maybe someone else will chime in & leave a link to help u a little more,there was changes to camshafts,oilpassages,intake in 01,so u would probably better off Doing a search in the forum & see what u come up with
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 01:45 PM
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Improvements have been made as the years rolled by. 2004 is reputed to be the most improved & trouble free C5. (As it should be)

All C5’s are quality cars. Yes they have their idiosyncrasies what with being a fully computerized machine.

First realize that the C5’s have a built in ability to retrieve ALL trouble codes from all the inter-related computer modules throughout the car. (NOT SO IN A C6) This greatly aids the backyard mechanic in repairing the car.

The drive train is very dependable.

Inspect all prospective cars topside AND bottom side. Find a car that has been well cared for.

The main computer (PCM) is located low inside the passenger side front fender behind the front wheel AND UNDER THE BATTERY. Therein lies the problem (or a potential problem) with battery leakage onto the PCM. Inspect this area VERY carefully for ANY signs of current or past corrosion. A mechanics mirror on a telescopic pole with a flashlight is what I recommend be used for inspection.

When you get your C5, install a “CLB” Column Lock Bypass to avoid the most aggravating ‘idiosyncrasy” of all. (Do NOT depend upon the factory column lock “fixes”)

Personally I would look for a 2001-2004, with ’03 & ’04 preferred. Just my preference. My C5 “driver” is a 2000 and I am very happy with the car. Zero issues other than replacing the left rear axle seal.

Whatever you pay for one, you are getting a lot of car for your money.


-

Last edited by timemender; Jul 7, 2009 at 01:51 PM.
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 02:29 PM
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Awesome replies! Thank you so much for your help! I will start my search.
Bernie
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 02:03 AM
  #5  
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Find someone in your local area who has a C5 and is knowledgable. Have them go with you on the test drive. That may be able to see thru your DESIRE to get a C5 and piont out something that you overlooked!

Pull and read the DTC. Write them down. Erase them and take the car for a good drive and get it fully up to operating temp. Break hard and make sure the car STOPS STRAIGHT AND SMOOTHLY It should NOT Pull or vibrate. It should NOT pull to the LEFT OR RIGHT when driving down the road. When you get done your test drive, READ THE CODES!!! If you cleared them, there should not be any after the test drive.

It should NOT vibrate or shake.

TEST ALL the controls and functions in the cabin. Everything should work. Down Load a users manual off the forum Tech Tips. There free and read up on C5. The owners manual will tell you volumes of info that will allow you sort thru all the prospects and to find a troubel free C5. If you read the owners manual, you will know more than most C5 owners!

Good luck and post all your questions on this forum before you make a move and you will be much happier.

Here is a quick over view on reading your DTCs:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc…)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.

Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

Here is very good site of DTC definitions:


http://www.gearchatter.com


Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!

Welcome to the world of C5 and the Forum

BC
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 08:36 AM
  #6  
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BC, Thank you for your very inciteful information. I am printing this to use when I check a possible C5 to purchase. Will also print an owner's manual per your instructions. Thanks again for you help!
Bernie
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 09:14 AM
  #7  
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Here some more info for you.

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/specs/

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/specs/
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 12:22 PM
  #8  
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Rhanks for the link Independent1!
Berie
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 04:04 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by BerniesVette
Rhanks for the link Independent1!
Berie
^^No problem.

meant to give you this one too. Poor typist.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...ngths-etc.html

Lots of great info.
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