Does anyone have some info on a rocker replacement. How difficult is it? I hear theyre glued on pretty good. Thanks for the help guys.

 

I remember reading on this forum that THEY ARE A BIOTCH to remove. You'll end up breaking it up into pieces as you take it off. From what I've seen, the glue is pretty thick behind it.

 

They are the only body panel BONDED to the chassis-air chisel!

 

From the Manual:

The Sheet Molded Compound (SMC) roof panel (1) is bonded and bolted to become an integral part of the vehicle structure. The top is installed using windshield urethane. Use the Urethane Adhesive Kit GM P/N 12346392, or a urethane adhesive system which meets GM Specification GM3651M, in order to maintain original installation integrity.

 

Door Opening Frame Replacement - Side
Tools Required
J 42058 Frame Adapter Clamp

Removal Procedure

Notice
The frame rails and bumper impact bars must be serviced as required, and returned to three-dimensional coordinates before any SMC repairs are attempted.


Visually inspect for damage to the frame rails or wheelhouse mounting areas. Restore as much of the damage as possible to specifications using three-dimensional measuring procedures. Use J 42058 if vehicle pulling and straightening are required.
Remove all panels and components to gain access to door side frame. The door side frame can be removed if the quarter panel is loosened from it. This may include removal of the following components:
Door
Quarter panel
Quarter inner splash shield
Remove latch striker closeout cover and striker.
Remove the trim screws that attach the side door frame panel to the rail. These screws must be re-installed to secure the service panel in place until the adhesive cures.

Important
Make sure the fuel inlet is sealed before proceeding with repair procedure.


Use caution along the underside of the vehicle when applying heat not to de-bond the floor panels from the frame rail.



Apply heat and pry to break bond along area (1).
Installation Procedure
Remove all remaining adhesive, and scuff all bonding surfaces to ensure proper adhesion.
Clean and prepare all bonding surfaces prior to SMC panel installation. Refer to Plastic Panels in Plastic Panel Information and Repair.
Prime all bare metal surfaces with PPGs DP90, or an equivalent epoxy anti-corrosion primer. Do not top-coat any bonding surface.
Temporarily fit the side door opening assembly to ensure proper fit and alignment with adjacent panels.
Remove panel assembly and apply a consistent bead of adhesive (1) to the front body hinge pillar and top surface of rail (2) and to all areas originally bonded, except for bottom side of rail.
The bead should be 10 mm (13/32 in) diameter.



This area is bonded after the side door opening assembly is installed.



Install assembly using original screws in factory locations. The screws are necessary to secure the service part until the adhesive cures.

Important
Ensure that the foam seal on the front body hinge pillar portion of the side door opening panel makes contact with the front hinge pillar.



Important
Use only approved adhesives. Refer to Repair Materials - Rigid Plastic Part in Plastic Panel Information and Repair.


Apply adhesive to inner edge of rocker and clamp in place until adhesive cures. Standoffs in part must fit flush against bottom of rail.
Remove excess adhesive squeeze-out and allow to cure.
Prime bare metal areas with PPGs DP90, or an equivalent epoxy anti-corrosion primer. Do not combine paint systems. Always refer to paint manufacturer's recommendations.
Install all related panels and components.

 

 

I did both of them. not so bad, I used a air chizle. and for the most pard I used a 5" grinderwith rough floppy pad. I just ground through the panel and most of the adheasive. it was fast and worked great! LOTS of smoke and black rubber goes all over but cleans up nice. The grinder is the only way to go. dont use any of the fast setting stuff they used. just use the urathane to re glue them it holds better then the other stuff. have fun!!

 

Holy Mackerel...why did you have to do both of them?

 

I’ve been involved with working on and rebuilding Corvettes for many years. Mostly C3's.

When I first learned the fact that the C5 rocker panels are bonded directly to the frame/chassis, I couldn’t help but wonder, how years down the road, this will affect the integrity of the frame.

I can imagine moisture trapped under there causing severe rust damage.

Time will tell.

 

what kind of urethane did you use to attach the new rockers?

 

Anyone have any photos of that exercise?

I've got a damage right side rocker and I'm debating making a repair versus replace. From what I've heard repair is the way to go, but I'm not sure where to draw the line between the pain of repairing cracks, gouges, versus replacing.

Thanks!

 

I have some damage to both of mine. Can't really see it but it is there. I went to three local shops to try to get the rear portion only replaced with ACI vented rockers. no one will toch the job. They will damage but won't replace just that section. Wish i had the skill tom do so-because the ACI rockers are killer.

 

not that difficult. Removing them will mean damaging them. New ones are around 250 from Gene. I used a bonding glue from my local automotive paint/supply store. Make sure u take your time aligning it with door before the glue sets. Its a job that can easily be done in a garage setting.

 

Here is what I am looking to do-
REPAIR THIS:
Replace only that section with this



To look like this:

Perhaps you can pm me with some info> At least then i can find the right shop to do it. The damage is only in that area and the ACI rockers would take care of it but can't find anyone willing to do the job. They rather just repair the existing rocker damage. Ugh!

 

http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...2&dept_id=1493

Check this out too

 

I heard they were glued on

 

I have removed without damage a rocker/aperature panel from an 07 vette. It takes time and patience. Heat the surround with a good heat gun - never stopping moving using oblong movements. Start at the back top and work down and toward the front. It takes a very long time for the heat to penetrate the smc and weaken the bond. Gently pulling in light jerks helps fracture the bond. The front is by far the most difficult. You have to heat from the underneath and inside at the front corner and all the way up. The corner has a extra amount of smc structure that cannot be heated from the outside. Another alternative is to cut the rocker ~1/3 the way up with a thin cutoff wheel and then piece it back together. Painting it before reassembly is important.

Use only SMC compatable glue for permanent trouble free installation.

 

They come off very easy its finding a new one that's hard !! GM oem complete rocker panels are now obsolete, does anyone know were there is an aftermarket source.

Thanks T

 

Im looking for someone parting out one. Did this the other night when taking a turn to early with one of the curbs that split the parking lot all the way to the road.

 

ouch... that's a pretty ugly wound you've got there, crazy. BUT, on the upside, if you happened to stop and pick up the missing piece, that should be easily repairable by a competent body shop. I had mine repaired, and it was worse than that... you definitely can't tell it ever happened now... best of luck to you. i searched for a replacement for well over a month and finally gave up and just had it repaired.