Daignosing P0140 secondary air system code
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,164
Likes: 71
From: MA
Daignosing P0140 secondary air system code
I just went through this with my vette and thought I would share what I did.
You should first disconnect the air supply hose either at the pipe joiner by the alternator or where the hose connects to the metal pipe below the break booster. There should be a lot of air coming out of the disconnected hose. If there is, I would disconnect the air tubes from your manifolds and start the car when cold. You should feel a good stream of air coming out of the air tubes at the manifold. If not, your check valves are bad. It is unlikely that both would go bad at the exact same time but it does happen.
If you get no air, check to see if the air pump is running or if you have a block in the air supply line. You should be able to hear if the air pump is running. It is low in the drivers front fender. It will make a fairly strong whirring noise. If no noise, you have a bad pump or an electrical problem. I would first check the fuse panel. Pull the air pump fuse and inspect it. I even swapped it for another of same rating. Pull the air pump relay and swap it for the horn relay - they are the same. Now start the car when stone cold and listen for the motor. If no sound then you could have a bad electrical connection. Take off the electrical connection from the air pump. Again, start the car when stone cold and use a voltmeter to check the voltage and ground continuity. If you see voltage and a good ground your pump is probably bad.
One more thing to check is the air pump vacuum actuation. You can disconnect the vacuum line from the air pump and start the car when it is stone cold. You should feel vacuum on this line. If you have a vacuum break you can detect this by exercising your heater controls as these come off the same line. Switch air modes (feet, face, etc.) using the manual control. If you have a vacuum break these won't work and you will be blowing air out all vents. If a vacuum break inspect the vacuum lines. They are located under the battery and can be accesses through the fender splash panel. The main connection is on the MAP at the back of the intake manifold. This is very hard to access without removing the intake manifold
If the vents work and you don't get any vacuum at the air pump, then your air pump vacuum solenoid is probably bad or you have a break in the vacuum line running from this solenoid to the air pump. Check this line for brakes. If none, it is the solenoid. This is located in the passenger fender well right above the computer. You can access it by removing the fender well splash shield.
My problem was that my air pump wasn't delivering a lot of air. My air pump was relocated due to a Procharger supercharger install. It now has a separate air filter. Leaves had collected around the air filter and were blocking the inlet, thus restricting the air flow.
You should first disconnect the air supply hose either at the pipe joiner by the alternator or where the hose connects to the metal pipe below the break booster. There should be a lot of air coming out of the disconnected hose. If there is, I would disconnect the air tubes from your manifolds and start the car when cold. You should feel a good stream of air coming out of the air tubes at the manifold. If not, your check valves are bad. It is unlikely that both would go bad at the exact same time but it does happen.
If you get no air, check to see if the air pump is running or if you have a block in the air supply line. You should be able to hear if the air pump is running. It is low in the drivers front fender. It will make a fairly strong whirring noise. If no noise, you have a bad pump or an electrical problem. I would first check the fuse panel. Pull the air pump fuse and inspect it. I even swapped it for another of same rating. Pull the air pump relay and swap it for the horn relay - they are the same. Now start the car when stone cold and listen for the motor. If no sound then you could have a bad electrical connection. Take off the electrical connection from the air pump. Again, start the car when stone cold and use a voltmeter to check the voltage and ground continuity. If you see voltage and a good ground your pump is probably bad.
One more thing to check is the air pump vacuum actuation. You can disconnect the vacuum line from the air pump and start the car when it is stone cold. You should feel vacuum on this line. If you have a vacuum break you can detect this by exercising your heater controls as these come off the same line. Switch air modes (feet, face, etc.) using the manual control. If you have a vacuum break these won't work and you will be blowing air out all vents. If a vacuum break inspect the vacuum lines. They are located under the battery and can be accesses through the fender splash panel. The main connection is on the MAP at the back of the intake manifold. This is very hard to access without removing the intake manifold
If the vents work and you don't get any vacuum at the air pump, then your air pump vacuum solenoid is probably bad or you have a break in the vacuum line running from this solenoid to the air pump. Check this line for brakes. If none, it is the solenoid. This is located in the passenger fender well right above the computer. You can access it by removing the fender well splash shield.
My problem was that my air pump wasn't delivering a lot of air. My air pump was relocated due to a Procharger supercharger install. It now has a separate air filter. Leaves had collected around the air filter and were blocking the inlet, thus restricting the air flow.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
From: Laredo Texas
Hi guys, i have a doubt, i dont have the air pump in my 99 vett, affect these to the AC system?, the vacuum line is affected if the car hasnt air pump?, currently, i have the p0410 code and the Switch air modes (feet, face, etc.) dont work and you will be blowing air out all vents and final question, works the hypertech programmer to disable the p0410 code? thanks guys.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 1,660
Likes: 9
From: Charlotte, NC
John, I can't understand your post.
The HPP will not delete this code. Also, if you have state inspections, your car will not pass with this code present.
My problem was my battery leaked acid on the vacuum line, so my air pump was working intermittently. Replaced the vacuum line (had already cleaned up and replaced the leaky battery) and all has been fine.
The HPP will not delete this code. Also, if you have state inspections, your car will not pass with this code present.
My problem was my battery leaked acid on the vacuum line, so my air pump was working intermittently. Replaced the vacuum line (had already cleaned up and replaced the leaky battery) and all has been fine.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,398
Likes: 1,139
From: Dyer, IN
I just went through this with my vette and thought I would share what I did.
You should first disconnect the air supply hose either at the pipe joiner by the alternator or where the hose connects to the metal pipe below the break booster. There should be a lot of air coming out of the disconnected hose. If there is, I would disconnect the air tubes from your manifolds and start the car when cold. You should feel a good stream of air coming out of the air tubes at the manifold. If not, your check valves are bad. It is unlikely that both would go bad at the exact same time but it does happen.
If you get no air, check to see if the air pump is running or if you have a block in the air supply line. You should be able to hear if the air pump is running. It is low in the drivers front fender. It will make a fairly strong whirring noise. If no noise, you have a bad pump or an electrical problem. I would first check the fuse panel. Pull the air pump fuse and inspect it. I even swapped it for another of same rating. Pull the air pump relay and swap it for the horn relay - they are the same. Now start the car when stone cold and listen for the motor. If no sound then you could have a bad electrical connection. Take off the electrical connection from the air pump. Again, start the car when stone cold and use a voltmeter to check the voltage and ground continuity. If you see voltage and a good ground your pump is probably bad.
One more thing to check is the air pump vacuum actuation. You can disconnect the vacuum line from the air pump and start the car when it is stone cold. You should feel vacuum on this line. If you have a vacuum break you can detect this by exercising your heater controls as these come off the same line. Switch air modes (feet, face, etc.) using the manual control. If you have a vacuum break these won't work and you will be blowing air out all vents. If a vacuum break inspect the vacuum lines. They are located under the battery and can be accesses through the fender splash panel. The main connection is on the MAP at the back of the intake manifold. This is very hard to access without removing the intake manifold
If the vents work and you don't get any vacuum at the air pump, then your air pump vacuum solenoid is probably bad or you have a break in the vacuum line running from this solenoid to the air pump. Check this line for brakes. If none, it is the solenoid. This is located in the passenger fender well right above the computer. You can access it by removing the fender well splash shield.
My problem was that my air pump wasn't delivering a lot of air. My air pump was relocated due to a Procharger supercharger install. It now has a separate air filter. Leaves had collected around the air filter and were blocking the inlet, thus restricting the air flow.
You should first disconnect the air supply hose either at the pipe joiner by the alternator or where the hose connects to the metal pipe below the break booster. There should be a lot of air coming out of the disconnected hose. If there is, I would disconnect the air tubes from your manifolds and start the car when cold. You should feel a good stream of air coming out of the air tubes at the manifold. If not, your check valves are bad. It is unlikely that both would go bad at the exact same time but it does happen.
If you get no air, check to see if the air pump is running or if you have a block in the air supply line. You should be able to hear if the air pump is running. It is low in the drivers front fender. It will make a fairly strong whirring noise. If no noise, you have a bad pump or an electrical problem. I would first check the fuse panel. Pull the air pump fuse and inspect it. I even swapped it for another of same rating. Pull the air pump relay and swap it for the horn relay - they are the same. Now start the car when stone cold and listen for the motor. If no sound then you could have a bad electrical connection. Take off the electrical connection from the air pump. Again, start the car when stone cold and use a voltmeter to check the voltage and ground continuity. If you see voltage and a good ground your pump is probably bad.
One more thing to check is the air pump vacuum actuation. You can disconnect the vacuum line from the air pump and start the car when it is stone cold. You should feel vacuum on this line. If you have a vacuum break you can detect this by exercising your heater controls as these come off the same line. Switch air modes (feet, face, etc.) using the manual control. If you have a vacuum break these won't work and you will be blowing air out all vents. If a vacuum break inspect the vacuum lines. They are located under the battery and can be accesses through the fender splash panel. The main connection is on the MAP at the back of the intake manifold. This is very hard to access without removing the intake manifold
If the vents work and you don't get any vacuum at the air pump, then your air pump vacuum solenoid is probably bad or you have a break in the vacuum line running from this solenoid to the air pump. Check this line for brakes. If none, it is the solenoid. This is located in the passenger fender well right above the computer. You can access it by removing the fender well splash shield.
My problem was that my air pump wasn't delivering a lot of air. My air pump was relocated due to a Procharger supercharger install. It now has a separate air filter. Leaves had collected around the air filter and were blocking the inlet, thus restricting the air flow.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
From: Laredo Texas
John, I can't understand your post.
The HPP will not delete this code. Also, if you have state inspections, your car will not pass with this code present.
My problem was my battery leaked acid on the vacuum line, so my air pump was working intermittently. Replaced the vacuum line (had already cleaned up and replaced the leaky battery) and all has been fine.
The HPP will not delete this code. Also, if you have state inspections, your car will not pass with this code present.
My problem was my battery leaked acid on the vacuum line, so my air pump was working intermittently. Replaced the vacuum line (had already cleaned up and replaced the leaky battery) and all has been fine.
thanks for your help.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
From: Laredo Texas
The AIR pump has nothing to do with producing engine vacuum(if I read your post correctly).......although the control valve could be a source of a vacuum leak.
If the air comes out of all vents, regardless of the mode selection, the most likely cause is a broken/chaffed vacuum line that resides underneath the battery tray(with the next likely cause being the vacuum line disconnected(or broken) at the rear of the intake manifold(also common to not be reconnected if a recent swap has taken place). It is a common problem, due to the vacuum line chaffing on a wire bundle, and exposure to battery acid. Do a search....lots of reading on this subject.
If the air comes out of all vents, regardless of the mode selection, the most likely cause is a broken/chaffed vacuum line that resides underneath the battery tray(with the next likely cause being the vacuum line disconnected(or broken) at the rear of the intake manifold(also common to not be reconnected if a recent swap has taken place). It is a common problem, due to the vacuum line chaffing on a wire bundle, and exposure to battery acid. Do a search....lots of reading on this subject.
answered doubt, i will check it, many thanks for your help
Last edited by JOHN/WS6; May 14, 2010 at 03:23 AM.
Advanced
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
What did you find out? I am having this problem on my 2002 Supercharged Z06. I see to check the lines under the battery tray and behind the intake manifold. I also see to check the gas cap. My a/c isn't working at all now. Just wanted to follow up with you to see what you found out.
William
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,398
Likes: 1,139
From: Dyer, IN
What did you find out? I am having this problem on my 2002 Supercharged Z06. I see to check the lines under the battery tray and behind the intake manifold. I also see to check the gas cap. My a/c isn't working at all now. Just wanted to follow up with you to see what you found out.
William
William
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Instructor
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
From: Laredo Texas
What did you find out? I am having this problem on my 2002 Supercharged Z06. I see to check the lines under the battery tray and behind the intake manifold. I also see to check the gas cap. My a/c isn't working at all now. Just wanted to follow up with you to see what you found out.
William
William
Instructor
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 179
Likes: 4
From: Little Compton, RI
P0410 code
Guys,
I just had this P0410 issue with my '00 C5, the dealer said it was the air check valves and that this would cost me $500 to fix. The drivers side valve is easy but the check valve for the passenger side is located behind the drivers cyinder head......^%$#&*&% to the engineer who thought this up..
I tried everything known to man and the forums to clean the check valves. You could blow through the the valves and if you pulled vacuum they would hold so I was 100% convinced the dealer was handing me a BS line and was going to do a 10 second fix the moment my back was turned and bill me $500. ..
Bottom line I need to pass Massachusetts emissions so i was forced into the dealer to have them pull the intake to replace the check valve.... I was a doubting Thomas because i was sure they were screwing me but i witnessed the job and the problem is gone...
I just had this P0410 issue with my '00 C5, the dealer said it was the air check valves and that this would cost me $500 to fix. The drivers side valve is easy but the check valve for the passenger side is located behind the drivers cyinder head......^%$#&*&% to the engineer who thought this up..
I tried everything known to man and the forums to clean the check valves. You could blow through the the valves and if you pulled vacuum they would hold so I was 100% convinced the dealer was handing me a BS line and was going to do a 10 second fix the moment my back was turned and bill me $500. ..
Bottom line I need to pass Massachusetts emissions so i was forced into the dealer to have them pull the intake to replace the check valve.... I was a doubting Thomas because i was sure they were screwing me but i witnessed the job and the problem is gone...
Instructor
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 179
Likes: 4
From: Little Compton, RI
Lucky,
In my case it WAS both valves, all my tests of pressure and vacuum were done to the valves individually and combined. P0410 was the only code.....which was in a way frustrating when both valves seemingly passed inspection eg hold vacuum for 5 seconds or so per the manual.
Replacing both was needed...
2 new valves + -$500 in wallet = P0410 gone & new Mass inspection sticker......priceless
In my case it WAS both valves, all my tests of pressure and vacuum were done to the valves individually and combined. P0410 was the only code.....which was in a way frustrating when both valves seemingly passed inspection eg hold vacuum for 5 seconds or so per the manual.
Replacing both was needed...
2 new valves + -$500 in wallet = P0410 gone & new Mass inspection sticker......priceless
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,398
Likes: 1,139
From: Dyer, IN
Lucky,
In my case it WAS both valves, all my tests of pressure and vacuum were done to the valves individually and combined. P0410 was the only code.....which was in a way frustrating when both valves seemingly passed inspection eg hold vacuum for 5 seconds or so per the manual.
Replacing both was needed...
2 new valves + -$500 in wallet = P0410 gone & new Mass inspection sticker......priceless
In my case it WAS both valves, all my tests of pressure and vacuum were done to the valves individually and combined. P0410 was the only code.....which was in a way frustrating when both valves seemingly passed inspection eg hold vacuum for 5 seconds or so per the manual.
Replacing both was needed...
2 new valves + -$500 in wallet = P0410 gone & new Mass inspection sticker......priceless
Advanced
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
Pulled the PCM & TAC, wrapped connectors, put on a solution of baking soda/water paste, then a diluted version of same, then rinsed with fresh water, drying now. Here are some pics. How do you suggest I clean the aluminum box?
