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Need to replace my engine rings....

Old Jul 20, 2009 | 02:15 PM
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Default Need to replace my engine rings....

I searched for a how to, but found nothing all that helpful. Yes I own an 01 with the oil consumptuion problem and Im now looking to sell it, and figured it would be much easier to sell if I fix this problem and freshen it up. I'm very mechanically inclined and I could just attack it, but figured I would check for some short cuts before I start. Im looking to do this with the engine still in the car. Drop the K member(support the engine) tear the intake and heads off and do it that way. Any help would be great!

Last edited by NIKDSC5; Jul 25, 2009 at 12:48 PM.
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 02:29 PM
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I can't help you with the specifics on re-ringing it... but I can tell you, it would be far easier to remove the engine.
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 02:37 PM
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It could be done that way leaving the crank in, but is it possible a ZO6 PCV MOD would stop the oil consumption? Are you sure the rings are worn out?
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Blown427conv
It could be done that way leaving the crank in, but is it possible a ZO6 PCV MOD would stop the oil consumption? Are you sure the rings are worn out?


What diagnosis process was used to zero in on the rings? If you haven’t done so yet, pull the throttle body and check how much oil you find pooled in the intake manifold. If you find a LOT then most likely not the oil control rings.
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Blown427conv
It could be done that way leaving the crank in, but is it possible a ZO6 PCV MOD would stop the oil consumption? Are you sure the rings are worn out?
? tell me more, Please! I have never heard of this mod. I do know that it eats alot of oil through the pcv for sure. But you are saying it can be done leaving the engine in the car?
Originally Posted by Eric D


What diagnosis process was used to zero in on the rings? If you haven’t done so yet, pull the throttle body and check how much oil you find pooled in the intake manifold. If you find a LOT then most likely not the oil control rings.
Because it has a miss fire, and after 1000 miles the #8 plug oil fouls when all other plugs look perfect! haha also the car has zero cats on it so the smoke shows rather heavy. Sitting at a stop light with the wind at your back i can watch the smoke passing me

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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 03:32 PM
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Seems like you have it isolated, but a compression test will verify.
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
Seems like you have it isolated, but a compression test will verify.
ture, true. I just drained the rad and I do not specfically like the color of the coolant. Possible head gasket? Also the dip stick looks like the oil has mixed with some water. Oh and another valid point to make is this is previously a FI car.
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Tech
I can't help you with the specifics on re-ringing it... but I can tell you, it would be far easier to remove the engine.
I find that hard to believe, im not trying to do a complete rebuild just rings, I have been reading that I only need to change the oil ring, and the #2 compression ring with out honeing anything. So leaving the engine in and pulling the pistons out of the top while leaving the crank in is what im ultimately after here. I have done it to other cars so...crossing fingers here.
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by NIKDSC5
ture, true. I just drained the rad and I do not specfically like the color of the coolant. Possible head gasket?
Yikes. Yep, compression/leak down test for sure. Also may want to pressure test the cooling system. Either way, that head needs to come off for more inspection.
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by NIKDSC5
? tell me more, Please! I have never heard of this mod. I do know that it eats alot of oil through the pcv for sure. But you are saying it can be done leaving the engine in the car?


Because it has a miss fire, and after 1000 miles the #8 plug oil fouls when all other plugs look perfect! haha also the car has zero cats on it so the smoke shows rather heavy. Sitting at a stop light with the wind at your back i can watch the smoke passing me
definately sounds like a ring
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
Yikes. Yep, compression/leak down test for sure. Also may want to pressure test the cooling system. Either way, that head needs to come off for more inspection.
yeah, but back on topic. can it be done? with the engine still in the car?
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by NIKDSC5
yeah, but back on topic. can it be done? with the engine still in the car?
You'll need to get the pan off, that's the kicker. I think you have to get the front cover unbolted and possibly remove some of the steering to get the pan off. You might have to jack the engine up some too to actually get the pan out. Then remove the heads and you should be able to get them out the top. Do a search on oil pan removal here and see what pops up.

Found this when I searched:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...te-anyone.html

Last edited by dougbfresh; Jul 20, 2009 at 04:18 PM.
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by NIKDSC5
I find that hard to believe, im not trying to do a complete rebuild just rings, I have been reading that I only need to change the oil ring, and the #2 compression ring with out honeing anything. So leaving the engine in and pulling the pistons out of the top while leaving the crank in is what im ultimately after here. I have done it to other cars so...crossing fingers here.
The engine is much easier/faster to disassemble when it's sitting on a stand. By the time you've torn the top of the engine down and yanked the oil pan, the engine could be sitting on the ground next to the car.

There is a book by Will Handzel that will give you step by step instructions for R&I.
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Tech
The engine is much easier/faster to disassemble when it's sitting on a stand. By the time you've torn the top of the engine down and yanked the oil pan, the engine could be sitting on the ground next to the car.

There is a book by Will Handzel that will give you step by step instructions for R&I.
maybe true, but by the time I simply lower the K member and oil pan, plus tear the top apart, putting it all back together would be easier due to lining it up with the torque tube, which i know is a PIA. Im only really looking to fix the one cylinder. Just trying to get this car to run the way it should with no oil consumption for its sale. I think I will try it my way. Another reason is i do not have an engine hoist where the car is, but i do have rafters that I have used to support engines before. Also the risks you take with the engine hoist, if you chose to take the hood off (and line it up putting it back on) or the side with the fenders, etc etc. Then with the radiator, it just sounds like a bigger PIA to me removing the engine. Correct me if Im wrong but you should be able to have the head off with in an hour and the same thing with lowering the oil pan and k memeber? Then it is just fix and reassembly. Where as 2 hours removing the engine, fix, and reinstall. haha plus just the sound of it makes me scared lol.
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Tech
The engine is much easier/faster to disassemble when it's sitting on a stand. By the time you've torn the top of the engine down and yanked the oil pan, the engine could be sitting on the ground next to the car.

There is a book by Will Handzel that will give you step by step instructions for R&I.
But it sounds like the OP wants to do it in the car. I know i wouldn t do it in the car. Good Luck on whatever way u do it, though!
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 06:47 PM
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The cradle can be dropped, and the pan can be removed, then everything reinstalled in about three hours total. (I just did it yesterday, with the help of a great friend!)

However with coolant in the oil and/or oil in the coolant I don't think changing the rings on one piston is going to solve your problem. Get the head off and look for damage. Mine was a cracked block.

Best of luck to you!
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 05:31 AM
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Default assumptions are the ****** of all.........

My friend you are making assumptions and not diaganoising the actual problem. With one (1) plug fouled and smoke at idle we have clues.
What color smoke, black , white or blue? What color is the one spark plug? Rust color? Are you losing coolant? How much oil are you consuming?


Doesn't sound like a ring to me but a head gasket leak to the coolant, or worse a crack in either the head or block.


Spend a few dollars and get a proper diagnosis.
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 12:23 PM
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Your plan is way harder than it has to be. But being "mechaniucally" inclined leads me to believe you're gonna do it your way. In any event from all the problem you've described fixing the rings on 1 cylinder won't even fix the problems, so why attempt it?

I'd pull the engine, do a complete rebuild. That way the head gasket or cracked head gets addressed. Oh and I'd hate to see who you end up sticking that sled to. At least don't try selling it here.
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Camjamsdad

I'd pull the engine, do a complete rebuild.
Not much for troubleshooting, are ya?
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Old Jul 21, 2009 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
Not much for troubleshooting, are ya?


There have been some good suggestions posted here on how to diagnosis the problem before tearing it down.
  1. First and most do a leak down check of each cylinder, or at least one cylinder that has a good looking spark plug to compare to #8 that looks funky.
  2. Coolant system leak check to help identify where and if there is a leak.
  3. Update your signature to identify details of your car, like model, year, mods, and other like info.

You seem to be convinced that it is an oil control rings on the piston, why? What about valve seals or pcv system? Have you ruled them out?

I hope you get the problem figured out and fixed. Best of luck with it.
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