I knew. So do I.

I haven't run anything but a stock LS6 clutch in a C5 so I'm not comfortable making a recommendation. Given the option, I would choose a lighter weight clutch (all other things being equal).

 

Very interesting article, thanks ! . They never really described "how it actually drives" though. When I get closer to needing a clutch I will ask how people like the light weight ones and how it feels driving on the street (compared to stock feel).


Toque

 

I have a LuK pro gold clutch/ Fidanza aluminum flywheel in mine. It takes a little more throttle to pull away from a stop smoothly. It just takes a little getting use to it. The engine does rev quicker no doubt about it. I like it myself and will probably go with a light weight flywheel next time too. I would suggest that you drive a Vette with one installed if you can because of the cost involved in switching it out if your not happy.

 

I have been beating on the spec twin for some time now and it feels great.

As far as flywheel light weight steel is nice. I have the aluminum flywheel and being able to spin quicker is good for rr but I don't know if you need it on the street. When I had it installed it did take a bit of time to get use to the fact you needed a bit more gas when starting but it was a quick adjustment.

 

I am using the 1150LB ACT Twin with a Tick master..... Very tame street manners which was important to me and zero chatter. So far so good

 

What happens if you don't give it enough gas? Is it noisy? Does it bog?

 

A any chatter at idle in neutral or at takeoff?

 

When choosing a clutch there are a few things you need to look at:

1. How much power do I need to hold?
2. Cost?
3. Weight?
4. Driving Style?

Of course the first two are pretty self explanatory, and based on your needs and budget line out pretty simple. Just remember you get what you pay for. If someone has a clutch for $800 and tells you that it will hold 1000 HP, and everyone else is asking twice that for a similar clutch...chances are it's to good to be true.

Weight, now this is a little different. Weight is going to do a couple different things. By removing weight you remove rotational mass and there by increase the amount of power the engine produces at the rear tire because it does not have that mass that it has to spin. You see more power at the tires, a quicker responding engine, and easier on the drivetrain. More weight does have more 'stored energy' that is why you see people stalling cars with lighter weight clutches. As the saying goes a object in motion tends to stay in motion....the more mass it has, the more it wants to keep moving. So if you were a drag racer with a heavy car and no torque, a heavy clutch would make the car launch harder but take more HP to move, so really good for 1/8 mile cars.

For those of us with a lot of power, and don't have to worry about it then go for the lightest that you can, just remember you have to give it more throttle to get it moving.

 

with my light weight flywheel...i stalled it 2-3 times the first day...thats it....as for rpms from a stop to accelerate...maybe 100-200 more vs stock....hardly a big deal...who focus's at their rpms when they leave a red light???? its not like you have to rev it to 2000 to leave...1200-1300 thats all i need even on an incline up a hill at a red light. most of that reason has more to do with my cam then the flywheel...proof....when i had the lingenfelter cam that was part of his 383 package....there was ZERO DIFFERENCE in starting from a dead stop over stock even with the light weight flywheel....when the vrx5 cam was installed...then and only then did the rpms needed to get increased....why??? because a 211/219 cam is damn near stock vs a 236/238....

 

I've been running a Mcleod RST on thier steel flywheel for over a year w/ 570rwhp. The pedal feels very similar to the stock clutch and there is no chatter, engagement is pretty similar to stock as well, I would buy it again if I had the choice, my car is a DD and I drive it hard as well. You might want to speak w/ Mcleod's tech dept before installing an RST over a stock LS1 flywheel, it will work but the inside of the LS1 flywheel is about 200 or 300 / 1000 bigger then the RST disc set and does not have any contact surface to connect with the inner part of the disc. I ran mine w/ the LS1 flywheel for a while with no problems but Mcleod's tech people advised me to get thier flywheel so I changed mine to the steel one. Mcleod advertises the RST works w/ the stock LS1 flywheel but the tech dept must not speak w/ the sales division much!

 

^The RST for around 700 beans sounds reasonable. Is it rebuildable?

 

after broken in there is no chatter....

 

Pretty convincing testimony!