Another DIC/Electrical Issue- Couple Questions
Just wanted to start by saying that this is an awesome forum- hopefully I can learn even more about the vehicle that I have grown to love- even though it has given me some issues the last couple years.
Ok on to my questions: I have a 99' C5 hard top- excellent condition, garaged, but it is def. my every day car (114K miles)- I drive it pretty hard. Got it from my dad 3 years ago (he got a C6) with 65 K miles- he kept it in impeccable condition- I have done my best to do the same. Been running into several different issues as of late- I can give you what they are, and what I have done so far to try to fix them......
Problems:1. My fuel gage, temperature gage, and oil psi intermittently go dead. Usually occurs when I hit a bump. When the car is at idle, or on a smoother road, none of these issues occur. If I stop the car, turn it off, pull the key, and restart, all of the issues go away (until I hit another bump)
2. When these gages go dead, the radio also goes dead. The security system and FOB no longer work once this occurs- the car has to be locked manually.
3. When this occurs, I also get the following random DIC warnings: Reduced Engine Power, Low Fuel, Service Traction Control, Low Battery
4. The horn will sound and the trunk will pop when this occurs, but only some of the time
5. A couple of times the passenger side head lamp has not gone down, even when I turned the headlights to the off position- I had to crank it down manually
6. Passenger side window does not work, and passenger side power lock does not work, even when I press the unlock pad on the drivers side.
7. HVAC- A/C blows on passenger side, but not on drivers side- really weak air flow, even at highest setting. I live in NC- and it gets pretty hot down here- so not much fun.....
What I have done so far to try to fix the issues:
1. Cleaned chassis grounds 101-104 and 401, as well as the connectors on 101 and 102. Used brake cleaner, wire brush, and rubbing alcohol- there was some corrosion, but it is gone now.
2. Replaced the battery 4 days ago and torqued the connectors extremely tight
3. Tried the passenger side window trick of slamming the door and depressing the switch, hit area with mallet, etc. did not seem to budge. Trick has worked before, just not recently when I tried it once the window became stuck again
This is what I have done so far- and I don't mind doing more- I actually enjoy this type of stuff- just don't want to go randomly tearing stuff apart and wasting a bunch of time when I don't need to. Based on the info above, is there a better way of pinpointing what I need to focus on? Car drives/performs wonderfully- I am dead sure that I can rule out any larger issues (besides the aforementioned).....
Any help would be tremendously appreciated!!





Try this:
Open BOTH doors and pop out the rubber accordion tube from the door frame and door.

Examine the connectors on each harness and look for damages and or exposed wires. Seal the exposed wires with liquid electrical tape. Seperate the connectors and examine the male and female pins and look for corrosion and or bad pins.

This procedures fixes 90 percent of problems like you are expierencing. Theres another area where this problem can pop up. Examine the drivers seat electrical harness and make sure that it is NOT damaged or corroded.
BC
One more question- what is the best agent to use to get rid of any corrosion I might find? I have isopropyl alcohol and brake cleaner, but is there anything better?





One more question- what is the best agent to use to get rid of any corrosion I might find? I have isopropyl alcohol and brake cleaner, but is there anything better?

BC
Did everything you said to do- problem solved- no DIC warnings and gages work fine
There was a little corrosion on the passenger side wiring harness- dug it out, cleaned it up, and refitted harness snugly- no issues since on the electrical stuff.......thanks for the help!!
HVAC still functioning poorly- I will start another thread on that one



