New user/owner! Advice about initial modifications...
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Tennessee
New user/owner! Advice about initial modifications...
A few days ago I officially became a first-time corvette owner...it was perhaps the best birthday present ever! After some frivolous googling I stumbled upon this outstanding website. I was primarily looking for experience based advice and unbiased information - there seems to be a vast amount of that material to sift through here. This leads me to my true purpose for starting this thread - recommended modifications. The modification process, as I understand it, can be highly expensive and time consuming. So, I'm looking for any and all advice.
Initially (after absorbing the car purchase price), I am looking to spend no more than $1K - perhaps more in the future. I would like to improve performance based matters first, then possibly exterior updates later. I am completely open to all suggestions (as this will be the first true sports car I've owned). Also, I am no technician (nor anything remotely close to one) - so "layman's terms" would be highly appreciated.
Vehicle info: 2001 C5 Coupe w/ auto transmission. 52k miles (I know...but I'm 6'5" and the thought of clutching in heavy traffic makes my left knee ache).
Thanks for the help!!!!
Initially (after absorbing the car purchase price), I am looking to spend no more than $1K - perhaps more in the future. I would like to improve performance based matters first, then possibly exterior updates later. I am completely open to all suggestions (as this will be the first true sports car I've owned). Also, I am no technician (nor anything remotely close to one) - so "layman's terms" would be highly appreciated.
Vehicle info: 2001 C5 Coupe w/ auto transmission. 52k miles (I know...but I'm 6'5" and the thought of clutching in heavy traffic makes my left knee ache).
Thanks for the help!!!!
Safety Car
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,811
Likes: 2
From: Simpsonville SC
Welcome! Congrats on the Vette, post some pics of her! If you want some sound, go with a cat-back exhaust system, give you a nice tone and a few more horses. Or you can get a really nice intake system, it will improve performance and help a tiny bit on gas milage. Also, change the plugs and wires, GMPP wires are very good and you can go with NGK TR55 plugs or something of your choice. Good luck on your journey of modding, once you get the mod bug its hard to get rid of it
Pro
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 538
Likes: 0
From: Edmond Ok
Also welcome. For cheap performance, I have seen several on the forum talk about the zip tie mod on the stock air box. It allows better breathing.
Plugs won't hurt, good luck with not breaking a wire when you pull them off. So be prepared to replace the wire set.
Cat Back exhausts make it sound good, but not much anything for performance gain.
A tune, dyno or street tune. Most wait till they have install several mods, like air intake, headers, heads cam or combonations. You could pick up 10 hp or so and the tuner would/could adjust shift points and firm up the shifts. A dyno tune will set you back at least $400.
Look in the used section and other used parts venues, you may be able to find headers for cheap.
Seafoam, (carbon removal) the engine if you are getting any pre-detonation.
Good luck and post pictures.
Plugs won't hurt, good luck with not breaking a wire when you pull them off. So be prepared to replace the wire set.
Cat Back exhausts make it sound good, but not much anything for performance gain.
A tune, dyno or street tune. Most wait till they have install several mods, like air intake, headers, heads cam or combonations. You could pick up 10 hp or so and the tuner would/could adjust shift points and firm up the shifts. A dyno tune will set you back at least $400.
Look in the used section and other used parts venues, you may be able to find headers for cheap.
Seafoam, (carbon removal) the engine if you are getting any pre-detonation.
Good luck and post pictures.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
The very first thing that you need to do is LEARN THE CAR. Then,,,what ever you do, EXPERIENCE that modification on another C5 before you plop down cash. Too many people purchase something on a recommendation and end up selling it cause they don't like it.
Learn to troubleshoot your own car. Heres a first start. You can read the DTC in the car using the DIC:
READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc…)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.
Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.
Here is very good site of DTC definitions:
http://www.gearchatter.com
Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!
Before you turn the car over to someone for repair,,,,,,
ASK THE FORUM FIRST! 90% of the time is a simple fix or a free fix!
Best bang for the buck:
- True Cold Air filter system I personally use and like the VARARAM ram air intake. 10-12 HP
- Headers. EXCELLENT seat of the pants performance improvement 20-25 HP
Aftermarket Shifter. No performance improvement but a really nice shift feel over stock. If nothing else,,,,switch to a C6 OEM shifter. Much better than a C5 OEM shifter. They can be found for a few dollars!!
DO NOT fall for HYPE! $300 Spark Plug wires will NOT provide you ANY HP improvement!
$20 each spark plugs will NOT provide you any HP increase.
Enjoy your car!
Bill C
Learn to troubleshoot your own car. Heres a first start. You can read the DTC in the car using the DIC:
READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc…)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.
Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.
Here is very good site of DTC definitions:
http://www.gearchatter.com
Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!
Before you turn the car over to someone for repair,,,,,,
ASK THE FORUM FIRST! 90% of the time is a simple fix or a free fix!Best bang for the buck:
- True Cold Air filter system I personally use and like the VARARAM ram air intake. 10-12 HP
- Headers. EXCELLENT seat of the pants performance improvement 20-25 HP
Aftermarket Shifter. No performance improvement but a really nice shift feel over stock. If nothing else,,,,switch to a C6 OEM shifter. Much better than a C5 OEM shifter. They can be found for a few dollars!!
DO NOT fall for HYPE! $300 Spark Plug wires will NOT provide you ANY HP improvement!
$20 each spark plugs will NOT provide you any HP increase.
Enjoy your car!
Bill C
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 877
Likes: 4
From: Nouvelle Ecosse
The very first thing that you need to do is LEARN THE CAR. Then,,,what ever you do, EXPERIENCE that modification on another C5 before you plop down cash. Too many people purchase something on a recommendation and end up selling it cause they don't like it.
Learn to troubleshoot your own car. Heres a first start. You can read the DTC in the car using the DIC:
READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc…)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.
Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.
Here is very good site of DTC definitions:
http://www.gearchatter.com
Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!
Before you turn the car over to someone for repair,,,,,, ASK THE FORUM FIRST! 90% of the time is a simple fix or a free fix!
Best bang for the buck:
- True Cold Air filter system I personally use and like the VARARAM ram air intake. 10-12 HP
- Headers. EXCELLENT seat of the pants performance improvement 20-25 HP
Aftermarket Shifter. No performance improvement but a really nice shift feel over stock. If nothing else,,,,switch to a C6 OEM shifter. Much better than a C5 OEM shifter. They can be found for a few dollars!!
DO NOT fall for HYPE! $300 Spark Plug wires will NOT provide you ANY HP improvement!
$20 each spark plugs will NOT provide you any HP increase.
Enjoy your car!
Bill C
Learn to troubleshoot your own car. Heres a first start. You can read the DTC in the car using the DIC:
READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc…)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.
Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.
Here is very good site of DTC definitions:
http://www.gearchatter.com
Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!
Before you turn the car over to someone for repair,,,,,,
ASK THE FORUM FIRST! 90% of the time is a simple fix or a free fix!Best bang for the buck:
- True Cold Air filter system I personally use and like the VARARAM ram air intake. 10-12 HP
- Headers. EXCELLENT seat of the pants performance improvement 20-25 HP
Aftermarket Shifter. No performance improvement but a really nice shift feel over stock. If nothing else,,,,switch to a C6 OEM shifter. Much better than a C5 OEM shifter. They can be found for a few dollars!!
DO NOT fall for HYPE! $300 Spark Plug wires will NOT provide you ANY HP improvement!
$20 each spark plugs will NOT provide you any HP increase.
Enjoy your car!
Bill C
for my 2 cents.
I would spend the first 1k on a true cold air intake Vararam, Honker, flip tie also works well. Look in the C5 parts section for a used set of TI exhaust, and to get more muscle car sound. I also found for ~100 bucks the ported TB I just installed made a huge SOTP improvement...in throttle response.
GL and welcome...
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Tennessee
Thanks everyone! Sound advice! I'll do a little research in the parts section and see what presents itself. Pic's will be up soon - I'm just waiting on a sunny day. Keep the suggestions rolling! Thanks again....
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Tennessee
Hey guys - on a side bar. when I purchased the vehicle there was a running light and signal blinker needing to be replaced. The dealer promptly fixed the issue within couple of days. However, the same running light and blinker are now on the fritz again! Have any of you experienced this before? Is this a common electrical problem? Please advise, thanks...
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Brett Foote
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 330
Likes: 33
From: Milwaukee WI
1. Find an autocross event near you and enter it. They are about $45.
2. Get your butt kicked by everyone else.
3. Realize that you are nowhere near able to handle the power you already have, much less even more.
Cosmetic changes are all personal taste, but I don't waste $ on "performance upgrades" because I can't use what I currently have to its full potential.
2. Get your butt kicked by everyone else.
3. Realize that you are nowhere near able to handle the power you already have, much less even more.
Cosmetic changes are all personal taste, but I don't waste $ on "performance upgrades" because I can't use what I currently have to its full potential.
