Electrical problems after clutch swap
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 340
Likes: 1
From: Austin Texas
Electrical problems after clutch swap
Well, i just had my clutch swapped, again. The same shop has done this 3 times now. It's a reputable shop/sponsor.
On the way home, i got CHARGE SYSTEM FAULT, service vehicle soon, and P1637 H C. The car died 4 times on the way home.
I am charging the battery right now even though it's almost brand new... but are there any quick places to check for a fix?
2004 z06
On the way home, i got CHARGE SYSTEM FAULT, service vehicle soon, and P1637 H C. The car died 4 times on the way home.
I am charging the battery right now even though it's almost brand new... but are there any quick places to check for a fix?
2004 z06
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,493
Likes: 1,178
From: Dyer, IN
Well, i just had my clutch swapped, again. The same shop has done this 3 times now. It's a reputable shop/sponsor.
On the way home, i got CHARGE SYSTEM FAULT, service vehicle soon, and P1637 H C. The car died 4 times on the way home.
I am charging the battery right now even though it's almost brand new... but are there any quick places to check for a fix?
2004 z06
On the way home, i got CHARGE SYSTEM FAULT, service vehicle soon, and P1637 H C. The car died 4 times on the way home.
I am charging the battery right now even though it's almost brand new... but are there any quick places to check for a fix?
2004 z06
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 340
Likes: 1
From: Austin Texas
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
The big red wire on the back of the alternator (BATT TERMINAL) goes to the STARTER SOLENOID,, and from there to the POSITIVE battery terminal. MAKE SURE that the wiring at the starter solenoid is clean and tight.
Measure DCV between the positive battery terminal to the BATT terminal on the back of the alternator. The reading should theoretically be ZERO. The more voltage you see the worse the connection (VOLTAGE DROP) is. Your goal is zero. Check that out before you go crazy replacing stuff. Your reading between the two points so place the meter leads on those two points.
BC
BC
Measure DCV between the positive battery terminal to the BATT terminal on the back of the alternator. The reading should theoretically be ZERO. The more voltage you see the worse the connection (VOLTAGE DROP) is. Your goal is zero. Check that out before you go crazy replacing stuff. Your reading between the two points so place the meter leads on those two points.
BC
BC
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Aug 15, 2009 at 10:45 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 340
Likes: 1
From: Austin Texas
The big red wire on the back of the alternator (BATT TERMINAL) goes to the STARTER SOLENOID,, and from there to the POSITIVE battery terminal. MAKE SURE that the wiring at the starter solenoid is clean and tight.
Measure DCV between the positive battery terminal to the BATT terminal on the back of the alternator. The reading should threoreticaly be ZERO. The more voltage you see the worse the connection (VOLTAGE DROP) is. Your goal is zero. Check that out before you go crazy replacing stuff. Your reading between the two points so place the meter leads on those two points.
BC
BC
Measure DCV between the positive battery terminal to the BATT terminal on the back of the alternator. The reading should threoreticaly be ZERO. The more voltage you see the worse the connection (VOLTAGE DROP) is. Your goal is zero. Check that out before you go crazy replacing stuff. Your reading between the two points so place the meter leads on those two points.
BC
BC
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,493
Likes: 1,178
From: Dyer, IN
Which wire? What color is it? Before replacing, you need to determine the reason why is fried. Is the terminal loose...resulting in a high resistance connection..and subsequently, heat? Direct short? etc.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
100% Correct!
Heres a pic of the starter with wires:
The wires just don't normally burn up. If it were me,,,,I would replace the wire. There not that long. Its got to supply full alternator current to the battery. Just fix it correctly and you wont/shouldn't get the charging system fault. Thats what id causing it.
BC
Heres a pic of the starter with wires:The wires just don't normally burn up. If it were me,,,,I would replace the wire. There not that long. Its got to supply full alternator current to the battery. Just fix it correctly and you wont/shouldn't get the charging system fault. Thats what id causing it.
BC
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From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
As mentioned already, a lose wire will essentially turn itself into a small heater circuit, heating up to the point that it cooks the wire and anything else with it. Dirty or corroded connections do the same thing.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 340
Likes: 1
From: Austin Texas
In that pic up there, it's the orangeish wire right under the red wire. The wire had some damage from rubbing against the block I guess. The insulation was removed in some areas, and the core seemed to be "broken" at one spot. I attached a new piece of 8 gauge wire to it, tightened it back up.
I swore it would fix the problem but it didn't.
I've traced the alt-battery and battery-starter wire and they were fine.
I swore it would fix the problem but it didn't.
I've traced the alt-battery and battery-starter wire and they were fine.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
In that pic up there, it's the orangeish wire right under the red wire. The wire had some damage from rubbing against the block I guess. The insulation was removed in some areas, and the core seemed to be "broken" at one spot. I attached a new piece of 8 gauge wire to it, tightened it back up.
I swore it would fix the problem but it didn't.
I've traced the alt-battery and battery-starter wire and they were fine.
I swore it would fix the problem but it didn't.
I've traced the alt-battery and battery-starter wire and they were fine.
What is the voltage on the BATT terminal on the rear of the alternator with the engine OFF and when the engine is ON??
Please post the values.
What do the other wires on the starter look like?
Is there battery voltage on the red wire PIN D in the connector on the alternator???
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Aug 15, 2009 at 05:05 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 340
Likes: 1
From: Austin Texas
How did you attach the repair wire???
What is the voltage on the BATT terminal on the rear of the alternator with the engine OFF and when the engine is ON??
Please post the values.
What do the other wires on the starter look like?
Is there battery voltage on the red wire PIN D in the connector on the alternator???
What is the voltage on the BATT terminal on the rear of the alternator with the engine OFF and when the engine is ON??
Please post the values.
What do the other wires on the starter look like?
Is there battery voltage on the red wire PIN D in the connector on the alternator???
Also, something strange- I had a low oil light last week. I added some oil (it was a little low), then today I changed it. When i started it up earlier, i had a low oil light, but full oil. It keeps flashing it at me, even though it's not low.
I used a female-female butt connector and also soldered the wires. Wrapped in all-weather electrical tape and used a heat sleeve on it.
The wires on the starter all look fine now that i've fixed that one.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 340
Likes: 1
From: Austin Texas
Found something else: The sensor that connects right where the oil filter screws in, has burn marks on the wires and some of the core is showing on both wires.
Is this the oil level sensor? this will fix my "low oil" light i bet. I hope i can fix it without removing the header.
Is this the oil level sensor? this will fix my "low oil" light i bet. I hope i can fix it without removing the header.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,493
Likes: 1,178
From: Dyer, IN
Found something else: The sensor that connects right where the oil filter screws in, has burn marks on the wires and some of the core is showing on both wires.
Is this the oil level sensor? this will fix my "low oil" light i bet. I hope i can fix it without removing the header.
Is this the oil level sensor? this will fix my "low oil" light i bet. I hope i can fix it without removing the header.