with so many poeple with this same problem you would think there be a good how to fix on this site if anyone had this same problem and can help with good instuctions and pics i will really apreciate it' please I have cold air coming out of the passenger side, hot from the driver side and even if I change the vents all vents stay open any idea on how to fix thanks

 

It is low on freon. The pass side condensor gets freon first and when low there is nothing left for the drivers side. I had this same problem 2 months ago.

 

Just finished with the same issue. As Blown427conv indicated, the blower system is right in front of the passenger vents and gets all the cold air when the system is low. I had mine in the shop twice with the same issue. According to my mechanic, with the new 134 freon, it only takes a small amount of loss, to the system, to cause it to blow warm air. Very common to get cool air out the passenger side and warm out the drivers. I had two small leaks. One coming from the fill valve and another small O ring leak down by the bottom of the condenser . You can purchase some 135 with dye in it. Charge the system with it and then shut down and wait a few minutes. Some kits come with a little pen light that you can then shine along your system and check for the green dye leaking from your system. As long as the leak is in the engine compartment you should be able to find it. But if the leak is in the dash, where the blower is, your in for a lot of work.

 

i have freon i checked it and it is full i put a gauge on it and its fine cold air passenger side hot air driver side and my vents are all open they wont change from top bottom nothing they all stay open hot air on driver side from all vents in that side and cold air from passenger side from all vents in that side.

 

My 98 did that when it needed a freon charge.

 

I was just getting ready to post the same problem.
90 degrees and 60 percent today and I'm showing 33 psi on the low side at all rpm levels, and 205 psi at idle and between 255 up to 280 psi (@ 2000 rpm) on the high side depending on the fans.
needless to say good luck.
Norm

 

Just filled my 1998 C5 up with freon today. It was doing the same thing. Air temperature was 60 F on passenger side and 80 F on drivers.

It is COLD now, took less than a can.

 

Hi, there are very many posts addressing the same problems you have. You have multiple problems.
1, the vents not changing with the mode inputs indicate a vacuum problem. Do a search for ac vacuum leak and you will find all the info you need. In a nutshell, you have a leak in the vacuum line or lines that supply vacuum to the mode actuators. The most likely places these leaks occur are the vacuum nipple on the back of the intake manifold, or the connections beneath the battery tray that join the lines with the vacuum tank, and checkvalve, the one under the battery tray is usually caused by acid dripping from the battery, and can cause a lot of other damage if not cleaned up properly. The leaks can occur in other areas like the vacuum block behind the glovebox, or the control head itself, but the vast majority of the time they are in the first 2 mentioned spots.
2, The cold pass side , warm drv side is also somewhat common. Do a search for reindexing actuators and you will find many posts dealing with this problem. Basically, in a c5 with manual ac,(not dual zone auto system), it is caused by being short on refrigerant. In a dual zone system, it can be short refrigerant, or an actuator problem or both. If you have the dual zone system, first clear all codes, then with ig off, battery connected, pull fuse # 27 for no less than 2 minutes, longer is ok, then reinstall fuse # 27(located in the passenger side footwell), and listen for the actuators going through their range of motion calibration(actuator recalibration), then start the system and see if it is fixed. If it is not, you need to check the refrigerant level. The color guages are not very accurate for the c5, it is better to use a numbered set of guages. Use a low and high side set of guages and check at 2000rpm's. Look for the following ranges, ,(I'll use an example like the below post to answer 2 questions at the same time),
60% Humidity, 90 Degrees ambient temp, low side should be 36psig, high side should be 300psig, 60% humidity, 80 degrees ambient, 33psig low, and 240psig high, get very close to these pressures and you will have a properly charged system. If you want to start from empty, pull a vacuum of 29" for an hour or more, then install 1.75 lbs R134 and 4 ounces of proper ref oil. Once you have established that the ref charge is proper, and if you have cleared the codes, and did the fuse 27 pull a few times, and the system still is cold pass, warm drv, then you need to replace the drv side actuator. This applys only to the dual zone system, on the manual system, it is the ref charge almost every time for those symptoms.
Post if you need more help--Good luck

 

thank you for this great detail info. I took the battery out and found both lines the one going into the firewall and the one going to behind the engine where both broken from acid drip, so i'm going to clean that up and and fix. Any suggestion on what to use to clean. Then i will do the fuse #27 and make sure freon is full thanks for the info will post results...

 

Hi, Ok you are on the road to recovery. you need to be very scrupulous about cleaning up the acid damage.
CAUTION--WEAR EYE PROTECTION, GLOVES, AND LONG SLEEVE SHIRT THAT YOU DON'T MIND GETTING HOLES IN. BATTERY ACID IS VERY DANGEROUS AND WILL BURN THE EYES AND SKIN ON CONTACT.
1, Disconnect Battery
2, Determine all areas of damage.
3, Neutralize the acid with a water and baking soda solution.(4 OUNCES OF ARM AND HAMMER IN A GALLON OF WATER SHOULD DO IT. Caution--if the close by computers and wiring connectors are affected, you need to clean those also, by wiping them off with the solution,(USE SMALL PAINT BRUSH, TOOTHBRUSH, Q TIPS, ETC), including the terminals and contacts. Don't flood them with water, but get them clean, after neutralizing the acid use a spray contact cleaner. Make sure they are completely dry, then protect them with a plastic bag to allow you to finish the areas.
4, Use the solution on all affected areas, it will fizz when it hits the acid. use it copiously, and wash clean with water, making sure to protect against flooding electrical components. Be sure to also include the battery tray and firewall if affected. Anything the acid has touched must be cleaned. After you are sure you have neutralized and cleaned and dryed all the affected areas, touch up with paint the affected areas to protect from rust in the future.
4, Fix the vacuum lines, and any electrical wires, parts and such that may need it.
5, Wash the battery with the solution, and water, making sure to not get any solution into the battery.
6, Reinstall all parts, and the battery, if you are using a battery that may drip in the future, use a battery acid absorbing mat under it in the tray. A better choice would be to get a new Maintenance Free Battery, that won't drip. My favorite is the Delco Sealed battery listed for the car, but others, like the Optima sealed, I won't get into that controversy here. Either way if you use a mat under it, and keep an eye on it every now and then, any applicable battery should be OK.
I know it sounds like a lot of work, but it will pay off with an enjoyable future for the car. If the acid is left to perpetuate it's damage, you can be sure that you will have many future headaches from it.
Good Luck

 

Cool thanks going to clean it up tonight after work so tomorrow I can get all the lines fix and put back together then i can check the vents and the freon hopefully this takes care of my problem and really thanks for all your detail help.......

 

OK here are some more problems that I have now.I took care of the cleaning and fixing of the airlines.Now vents work no problem.I made sure freon levels are fine ,but still I have warm air on driver side and cold air on passenger side I checked the dic codes and this is what I got C1780H-C2115HC-BO361H-BO363H-BO441HC-C1281H-C1286HC can anyone tell me what all these code mean and how to fix them. I beleive some are from the actuator and I know my traction handleling switch doesn't do anything so I think one of these codes is for that. please help on not just what they all are,but how do I fix my problems anyone out there thanks if you can help me....my vett is a 1998 auto with dual climate control and adjustable handleling....

 

Hi, The codes are as follows
B0361, B0363, B0441, are all Left actuator codes, they are also history codes and not current. The H after a code means History,(intermittent, or happened in the past), C after a code means current, (happening now). HC means both. The best thing to do with the left actuator is clear the codes, do the fuse 27 pull and reinstall, and see if that fixes it. If not you need to reindex the actuator or replace it.
The C2115HC is the left rear TPM, (tire pressure monitor), the monitors battery is most likely dead. The only thing to do is replace the Left Rear tpm. If you have never replaced the tpm's in all the wheels, they are all about ready to go bad. The expected life on the early ones was about 8 to 10 years. The early c5's had a different tpm then the later ones, and the battery in them is quite difficult to replace, some have done it, you could try it, but you need to read up on it, search tpm battery replacement.
The C1780H is a loss of steering position signal, this may indicate a bad or dirty connector, or ground, or the sensor itself. The best thing to do to start is check the connectors, and the grounds for clean good contact. The C1286 is Steering Lateral Bias Malfunction, this may indicate the steering wheel is misaligned or also bad connectors or grounds. The C1281H is Active handling sensor uncorrelated, this is a history code and may mean that the grounds are dirty or loose, or that the connectors on the shock solenoids are dirty or loose or bad sensors or a bad EBTCM.
These are general ideas, there are quite a few things that could be wrong with the active handling and steering sensors. But the best place to start is by cleaning all the connectors and ground points. See Bill Curlees sticky on electrical problems to see where the grounds are. Then clear all the codes and see what comes back. History codes in relationship to the active handling system very often means an intermittent problem, and are very often caused by bad connections and grounds.
Good Luck

 

Thanks I will start the ground conection clean-up and if you can how do I reindex the actuator is this something I can do at home or is a dealer thing thanks this is great info I really do apreiciate all your help....

 

Hi, be sure to read Bill Curlee's sticky on electric problems, it will show you where all the grounds are. Then when you are ready to tackle the actuator read the thread on Reindexing Actuators, it has full instructions with a link to picts. Read the following link, http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...actuators.html
Good Luck

 

Hi, I'm still working on mine and found this by MAESTRO300.

"I'm curious... even though you have no codes... start the car and turn AC on... wait until passenger side gets cool. Now go to the codes/HVAC and hold reset.
Feel if the air DOES get ice cold on the driver's side before turning hot. This was my case (with no codes) meaning the actuator reported correctly but the door position was not correct. I noticed by resetting codes it WILL open the door fully momentarily."

I tried it (note: I had no codes, but hot air on drivers side after full vacuum and refill.) All vents went full hot then all vents went full cold,
and now I have a code, B0338 H C. I can live with a code as long as I'm getting full AC.

Does anyone know what has happened? Did the doors reset? I couldn't hear anything happening.
Norm

Edit::B0338 = Air temp sensor open, It is because I still have the dash apart.
Norm