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Symptoms are an uncommanded startup flare to 2000-2400 RPM, and a mildly unstable idle. Tuner wanted me to pull TB and have a look, and here I am. The throttle blade is actually open and angled (hard to show with pictures). I can push it shut but it springs back to this preset position. Fully shut there's a nice seal around the blade, but sitting open like this is allowing a LOT of bypass air into the motor. Is there anything that can be done about this, is it even normal, or is it as simple as me pulling the motor and moving the gears to where it's shut and reassembling??
Not what I was looking for, but if you clink on the link, it appears in the various pics that the LSX TB's are canted slightly open in the relaxed state...
The LS engine TB does NOT have a blade stop and when the engine is OFF and the key is off,,the Throttle Blade does NOT seat and can be moved easilt against the spring.
When you turn the KEY to ON,,the Throttle blade should errect to the last known or commanded idle position. When its powered up, you will see that it will have a slight opening to allow in the correct idle air.
Examine it with the key on. If you have some one press the accelerator you can watch the blade respond. Make sure tht it goes wide open.
I know it's got to be closing down because we're getting the 850 RPM commanded idle (albeit a little unstable, searching +-50ish RPM), but the uncommanded flare to 2000 RPM is what's concerning us. The tuner had to do a TON of work to get 500 RPM knocked off of the flare and wasn't able to get it down any further. I'm going to go plug it in and flip the key on to see what it does.
I replaced my throttle body that was normally shut all the way with power off on a 2000 with one from a 2003 and it looks exactly like yours does. I could push it closed but its "relaxed" position is slightly open and it would idle high with a slight roughness. I did the idle re-learn and it fixed it mostly. It idles smooth around 750-800 RPM but I think the old one would idle lower than that. Runs well though so I just live with it. (6spd)
Not knowing what your tuner did to get it calm the flare down a little at start I can offer you this info.
I use EFILive but I believe there are similar tables used in HPTuners.
In the idle section there are several tables used regarding startup params. The one I found to be most useful in helping with startup flare was 'Startup Friction Airflow'. It is a temperature weighted curve that is supposed to add air to compensate for 'cold stiff' engine components at startup. I pulled the curve down and it did a good job compensating for the flare.
Your resting blade angle is normal. However the body has been extensively flared and ported causing the airflow to change. You wil have to program the pcm to compensate for that.
Take heart. I did it to mine and now it is nice and tame at startup.
I'm going to do an idle relearn because I don't think it was ever done. Have to get the fuel pumps back int he car first and then we'll see what happens.
YES! It is normal for the throttle blade to be partially open under power. I went through a similar issue when I installed a Lingenfelter 90MM TB. I learned that the throttle position needs to be arount 6-7% open at idle. I had to adjust an intial idle air parameter to get my car to keep from running up to 3500 RPM on a cold start. I still need to tweak mine as it still runs up to maybe 2000 RPM for a few seconds on a COLD start.
Thanks guys. Hopefully my tank to pump seal comes in today (It better, I paid $30 for overnight shipping) and I can get it back together and an idle relearn done/some miles put on.
Not knowing what your tuner did to get it calm the flare down a little at start I can offer you this info.
I use EFILive but I believe there are similar tables used in HPTuners.
In the idle section there are several tables used regarding startup params. The one I found to be most useful in helping with startup flare was 'Startup Friction Airflow'. It is a temperature weighted curve that is supposed to add air to compensate for 'cold stiff' engine components at startup. I pulled the curve down and it did a good job compensating for the flare.
Your resting blade angle is normal. However the body has been extensively flared and ported causing the airflow to change. You wil have to program the pcm to compensate for that.
Take heart. I did it to mine and now it is nice and tame at startup.
Just curious if the same would hold true for a hot start? I have a H/C package and my car starts fine when cold and idles normally. Its the hot starts that are a problem. Hots starts after sitting for an hour or so, Car acts like it wants to catch but I have to stab the throttle to get it to catch and run. No problems after that. Curious if this is an air or fuel issue?
Idle relearn did jack. Still flaring to 1900-2100 RPM. Everything is functioning because the tuner had at least cut the flare time from 5 to 3 seconds. Hopefully some more tuning will clear it up.
Swapped on a stock TB, startup flare goes to about 1300-1500 RPM MAX and settles right down. I compared the two and on the ported one there was just a TON of material taken off of the floor and roof and you could obviously see how much air could get past there. Bummer.....
I think that it's common for ported TB's to have a slight flare...on bone cold startup mine will flare to 2000 rpms for maybe 2 seconds, then down to 1200 then down to ~750. Hot start it just fires up...no flare... and idles really well.
It seemed to respond better after the idle relearn. With a ported TB this really needs to be done.