Volts gage and DIC
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 656
Likes: 5
From: Wright City MO
Volts gage and DIC
So what number should I be looking for on the Volt gage or the Volts readout in the DIC?
I know it moves around and I know that the accurate reading of battery condition is from between the battery posts so what should I see in the car?
I know it moves around and I know that the accurate reading of battery condition is from between the battery posts so what should I see in the car?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 656
Likes: 5
From: Wright City MO
Hmmm, so here is what I am seeing on my 97.
At start and running I see anywhere from 13.8 to 14.0. The longer I drive on the highway it will slowely drop to 13.8 and perhaps 13.6 and seems to settle there. When in stop and go traffic I will see the low 13s with an occasional drop to the mid to high 12s. Then when moving again I see 13.2 or so.
I am trying to understand if this is normal as it seems to be affected by RPM, etc. I understand the more load the more load it puts on the alternator so just trying to understand if what I am seeing is normal or if I need to go have the alternator checked before a trip next weekend.
At start and running I see anywhere from 13.8 to 14.0. The longer I drive on the highway it will slowely drop to 13.8 and perhaps 13.6 and seems to settle there. When in stop and go traffic I will see the low 13s with an occasional drop to the mid to high 12s. Then when moving again I see 13.2 or so.
I am trying to understand if this is normal as it seems to be affected by RPM, etc. I understand the more load the more load it puts on the alternator so just trying to understand if what I am seeing is normal or if I need to go have the alternator checked before a trip next weekend.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 8,580
Likes: 964
From: Communist Colorado
I have never seen mine down around 12 volts. I guess during the day, no lights on, a/c off, radio off, mine runs like 13.4 to 13.6 At night, lights on, it goes up bit with the demand for more amps.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,962
Likes: 29
From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
With a lower than normal voltage, first determine if the battery is due. Second, check the battery connections themselves but also put a meter across the battery and compare the readings from it and the DIC. If they are a lot different, there is a ground connection between the battery and the fuse box on the frame that needs to be looked at. Other than that, know that the electrical center for the alternator and the car is at the starter solenoid. Its been long known to come lose. Make sure its clean and tight there but don't forget that its electrically hot.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,786
Likes: 7
From: Iowa
wow, I get 14.4-14.6V according to both gauges.
I like having the voltmeter there, but the darn thing has a dampening effect built in just like many of the other gauges, makes it pretty worthless. why did GM do that?
I like having the voltmeter there, but the darn thing has a dampening effect built in just like many of the other gauges, makes it pretty worthless. why did GM do that?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,962
Likes: 29
From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
If you are seeing that high of voltage, you need to pull your alternator and have it tested. Sounds like the regulator isn't working. Too high of voltage will cook your battery
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Drifting
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,333
Likes: 32
From: cruising between USA and Canada... SAVE THE WAVE!
I've found my DIC to show .6-.9v LESS than what's read right off the battery.
I'm regularly showing low/mid 13s with original 90k mile alternator and a brand spankin' new battery...
I'm regularly showing low/mid 13s with original 90k mile alternator and a brand spankin' new battery...
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 656
Likes: 5
From: Wright City MO
That is a little strange dropping into the 12's and then only recovering to the low 13's. Wouldn't hurt to have the alternator tested but it seems to me that the voltage regulator ( internal to the alternator) is doing the strange things and seemingly when it gets warm??? ie after you have driven for a while. Is the battery newer or pretty old?? Could be a battery issue and not an alternator. Check the cables and make certain they are clean, bright and tight. Check voltage across the battery with a digital voltmeter with NO key in the ignition. Should be greater than 12.4 volts. If not I would suspect the battery.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 656
Likes: 5
From: Wright City MO
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
The DIC voltage reading and IPC volt meter get the voltage off the internal wiring after the ignition switch. If your seeing a significant difference between actual battery voltage and the dash meter, I would rebuild the ignition switch.
- http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
If memory serves me correctly, the volt meter gets its voltage off of the BCM1 fuse. Im at Carlsile and don't have access to my service manuals.
BC
- http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
If memory serves me correctly, the volt meter gets its voltage off of the BCM1 fuse. Im at Carlsile and don't have access to my service manuals.
BC
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,383
Likes: 13
From: Kinston North Carolina
The DIC voltage reading and IPC volt meter get the voltage off the internal wiring after the ignition switch. If your seeing a significant difference between actual battery voltage and the dash meter, I would rebuild the ignition switch.
- http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
If memory serves me correctly, the volt meter gets its voltage off of the BCM1 fuse. Im at Carlsile and don't have access to my service manuals.
BC
- http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
If memory serves me correctly, the volt meter gets its voltage off of the BCM1 fuse. Im at Carlsile and don't have access to my service manuals.
BC
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,333
Likes: 32
From: cruising between USA and Canada... SAVE THE WAVE!
The DIC voltage reading and IPC volt meter get the voltage off the internal wiring after the ignition switch. If your seeing a significant difference between actual battery voltage and the dash meter, I would rebuild the ignition switch.
- http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
If memory serves me correctly, the volt meter gets its voltage off of the BCM1 fuse. Im at Carlsile and don't have access to my service manuals.
BC
- http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
If memory serves me correctly, the volt meter gets its voltage off of the BCM1 fuse. Im at Carlsile and don't have access to my service manuals.
BC
Interesting that you mention that-
I had taken apart my ignition switch after reading your tutoria wayyyyy back (thank you for that
) and did clean the contacts to like new.No changes to DIC voltage tho.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 656
Likes: 5
From: Wright City MO
Thanks for all the info. Everything checks out so I think what I am seeing is normal. I don't get any dramatic quick drops. Also, not soure how accurate the volt gage is from one car to another and from what I gather from all of you and in doing some checks I think I am ok. This is all good info that I am going to keep and thanks Bill for the schematic; it will come in handy. The battery readings are good also.
Bob
Bob
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,786
Likes: 7
From: Iowa