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OBX header install

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Old Aug 29, 2009 | 08:55 AM
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Default OBX header install

Next weekend I am going to be installing my OBX headers, any advice? do they go in from the top or bottom? I think I have all I need:

headers
X-pipe
copper header gaskets
locking header bolts
plugs
plug wires

Am I missing anything, it has been many years since the last time I put headers on a vette and I want this to go smooth.
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Old Aug 29, 2009 | 08:57 AM
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0/2 sensor extensions?
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Old Aug 29, 2009 | 09:27 AM
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Plug wire heat sleeves to protect those new wires?
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Old Aug 29, 2009 | 10:24 AM
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forgot to mention that I have to O2 extensions, do I really need the sleeves, I should be fine as long as the wires arent against the headers.....right?
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Old Aug 29, 2009 | 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by bcartman2
forgot to mention that I have to O2 extensions, do I really need the sleeves, I should be fine as long as the wires arent against the headers.....right?
It is your choice. I believe it to be a durability thing. Will the engine run without them? Sure, but the wire life would most likely be extended with sleeves. Heat sleeve on the starter wires isn't a bad idea either as preventive maintenance thing.

Hope your install goes smooth.
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Old Aug 29, 2009 | 08:10 PM
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You WILL need longer bolts for the for the resonaters. The spring bolts provided are not long enough and will not work. Everyone has had to make that change. The clamps that are provided aren't the best either but will work it is up to you if you want to change those.
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Old Aug 29, 2009 | 08:15 PM
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You will need to drill/cut a hole in the tunnel plate for the 02 sensors. I tried to do it while mine was in the air. I found it easier to take it off and would suggest that. I could have saved about an hr just from that.

You have an 01 so it will be easier than my 99 with the Air Tube and Dip Stick.
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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 01:17 AM
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anti-seize is a must........
zip ties
18mm plugs if you are deleting your rear 02s.....(18mm threads, toyota oil drain plug) or go to your local exhaust shop.
might as well change the oil while you have it in the air

i did not need to buy new bolts. the ones supplied worked fine....



driverside from the bottom
pass from the top
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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 10:25 AM
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that covers just about everything, they were pretty easy IMO. Much easier than other cars i've put headers on. It just seems like the vette was made with performance parts in mind. Everything is decently easily accessible. The only PITA part was the bolt that holds the air tube down on the back of the block, but ur 01+ so u dont have to worry about that.
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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 02:06 PM
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Can't wait to install mine. Waiting to see what happens with the cats they are supposedly coming out with.

Jason
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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 05:01 PM
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You may also need to loosen/remove the starter when dropping in the passenger header. The clamps are junk, I got tired of dealing with them and had mine welded up! Definately modify the tunnel plate out of the car, I didn't, I hated it!
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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 05:17 PM
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I remember saying "WHY GOD WHY DID YOU PUT SO MANY BOLTS ON THIS TUNNEL PLATE!!!!"
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 10:21 AM
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If you put the bolt in the Rear O2 sensors and just delete the sensor do you still have to cut into the tunnel plate?
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by nyg215
If you put the bolt in the Rear O2 sensors and just delete the sensor do you still have to cut into the tunnel plate?
Drilling the tunnel plate is for the front o2 sensors.
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 02:00 PM
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ohhh that sucks....i dont feel like drilling anything....thanks capthuff
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 04:27 PM
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visualize... you have longtubes now... the collector is farther from the motor now. The o2 bungs are in the collector. They are angled just right so they don't fit under the tq tube plate. You will need to cut holes so that they will fit.
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 10:15 PM
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i had enough clearance, but i drill a hole to compensate for the motor torquing up.....just in case....dont be scared a small 1" diameter hole will not affect the rigidty f the tunnel plate at all
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 10:49 PM
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I have heard that OBX is changing the front O2 bung location so no drilling will be needed. I guess my question is....why not just drill new holes, weld in new bungs, and seal up the old ones?
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Old Sep 17, 2009 | 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by c5blkvetteguy
I have heard that OBX is changing the front O2 bung location so no drilling will be needed. I guess my question is....why not just drill new holes, weld in new bungs, and seal up the old ones?
You don't have to go that far either. I put a holesaw to mines and left it still attached at the top. Then I tilted it down as far as it could go and rewelded them there.

Not everybody can or wants to weld. It doesn't bother me, but it took a little experimenting with the extra material cut off from my modified resonators to get a bead to go down nicely, plus I had to get a new gas bottle for Argon and and the right stainless wire from Mcmaster-Carr. Of course, you could always just take it to a muffler shop and have them weld it. I just like learning to weld different materials.
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