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caliper bolt : 125ftlb : diff reach: how to?

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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 01:22 PM
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Default caliper bolt : 125ftlb : diff reach: how to?

kind of dumb question. i am a noob at DIY and the torque spec is quite high. plus there is no room even with the suspesion flexed out.

how difficult is it to get these off and put them on again? I have just one torque wrench which is 18-20 inch long.
Any shortcuts to getting this caliper bolt off and then on again?

what loctite compound to use? blue or red?
I think red woudl need a flame torch to remove the bolt.

I hate to pay the dealer $200 per pair for labor for swapping rotors and pads. But i am kind of leaning towards it now.
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 01:25 PM
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I use a breaker bar to get it off.
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 01:55 PM
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Spray some penetrating oil on the bolts (let it sit for a few minutes) and use a long breaker bar. If you don't have a long breaker bar, use a cheater (a pipe) at the end of your standard length bar for additional lever.

For “extreme” measure, you can place a bottle jack under the bar and slowly raise the jack until the bolt breaks free. However stop this method if you’re raising the car instead of breaking loose the bolt. (Know your limitation and ability on this method

Good luck
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 02:07 PM
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Remove the tie rod nut and pop the tie rod off the upright then you can steer it out so the bolt is accessible, you can then add a pipe for leverage.
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 1FUNVTT
Spray some penetrating oil on the bolts (let it sit for a few minutes) and use a long breaker bar. If you don't have a long breaker bar, use a cheater (a pipe) at the end of your standard length bar for additional lever.

For “extreme” measure, you can place a bottle jack under the bar and slowly raise the jack until the bolt breaks free. However stop this method if you’re raising the car instead of breaking loose the bolt. (Know your limitation and ability on this method

Good luck
I have a breaker bar. But there isnt much space for good leverage.
Even if i use it across the rotor and push from the other side of the rotor with the breaker bar socket point on the ohter side of the rotor connected to the caliper bolt, there isnt much space for leverage to break loose 125ft lbs.
If i do find leverage and somehow do this, my biggest worry is that i might push the car off the jack stands. Or unscrew the bolt off and in the process break a hole into the wheel well. again noob here so ...

Does penetrating fluid make a big difference?
I have read on this forum that that bolt might even need some heat with a flame torch. Is this true?

The jack approach is ingenious. why didnt i think of that! That might just help.

Okay so when screwing that bolt back, what size torque wrench do i need (note i want to know the size not the torque rating/capacity )
From the space i see i think at max an 8inch torque wrench is all that will fit in there. And i have a really large 18" plus long torque wrench.

Last edited by shaggy911; Aug 31, 2009 at 03:29 PM.
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 03:29 PM
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Yes on the red, and no on the torch. If it is the first time the bolts have come off then it will be a bear. Use all of the above suggestions. Using an impact wrench to get them off is a mixed bag, you would need a pretty strong impact wrench that is also some what small, that and shallow sockets.

I like to raise the car pretty high when doing this as it will give you more room to use a breaker bar and tq wrench. But, be careful and take a lot of percautions raising any car.

Do NOT skimp on the torque when putting it back together. The bolts get a LOT of vibration and that will loosen bolts quickly if they are not put together right. 120 is not enough!
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by MattB
Yes on the red, and no on the torch. If it is the first time the bolts have come off then it will be a bear. Use all of the above suggestions. Using an impact wrench to get them off is a mixed bag, you would need a pretty strong impact wrench that is also some what small, that and shallow sockets.

I like to raise the car pretty high when doing this as it will give you more room to use a breaker bar and tq wrench. But, be careful and take a lot of percautions raising any car.

Do NOT skimp on the torque when putting it back together. The bolts get a LOT of vibration and that will loosen bolts quickly if they are not put together right. 120 is not enough!
As per the loctite specs on their site, it looks like red implies use of heat to break loose the cured compound. That or an excessive amount of torque.
That site also recommends using blue compount for "prevent losening of bolts with vibration" and for removal with hand tools.
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 04:28 PM
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I was able to get them loose by using the old jack under the wrench trick. Simply get the wrench on the bolt, then put your jack under the wrench and slowly jack up the rench letting gravity help loosen it for you.

This can be used from the opposite direction to torque stuff back up, though on long torque wrenches, I would suggest unbolting the tie rod and swiveling the upright for a better angle.

Be careful though as there is a lot of force and you want the overall structure relatively stationary so you don't get a socket/wrench popping off. (No extenstions if you can help it)

Good Luck.
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 04:54 PM
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I had the same problem with the rears. I could get to the fronts with breaker bar but not the rears. I stopped at a tire place and had them break the 2 rears loose for like $5. Well worth it. I remove mine frequently for track days switching rotors and pads. I put them back on, without loctite and tight as I can and without torquing. As they are on and off so much, I see no need to loctite. But if it weren't for that I would torque and loctite. Good luck with it.
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