Recommended Tranny Fluid?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 408
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio Texas
Recommended Tranny Fluid?
So, I've read dozens of threads about sticky shifting and shifter alignments and disengagement problems and so..... I have put on a new tick adjustable master (which ROCKS!) and I've changed my peace of crap B&M short throw to MGW's new designed short throw (which I like a lot better) and my last issue with my shifting is just that getting into or down shifting to 3rd or 4th....or shifting from 3rd to 4rth just sometimes needs a little force. Is this a tranny fluid issue maybe? or does someone think I need to check my shifter alignment? (I haven't done this yet) Sometimes when I shift right at redline from 3rd to 4th...it scratches just a little bit and it just annoys me.
(I already have built my tranny btw, upgraded shift fork and pads, snycros and gears look perfect!)
What do ya'll think?
(I already have built my tranny btw, upgraded shift fork and pads, snycros and gears look perfect!)
What do ya'll think?
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 1,660
Likes: 9
From: Charlotte, NC
Are you rev matching when downshifting? That makes a world of difference. Also, these trannys are not the smoothest shifting things IMO.
I used the Penzoil Synchromesh fluid the last time and it has been the best of the few products I've tried in the past. I sometimes would have trouble engaging first gear from a stop, the shifter just wouldn't go all they way in gear so when I let out the clutch, it would pop out of gear.
I've not had that problem since using the Penzoil.
I used the Penzoil Synchromesh fluid the last time and it has been the best of the few products I've tried in the past. I sometimes would have trouble engaging first gear from a stop, the shifter just wouldn't go all they way in gear so when I let out the clutch, it would pop out of gear.
I've not had that problem since using the Penzoil.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,450
Likes: 1,155
From: Dyer, IN
So, I've read dozens of threads about sticky shifting and shifter alignments and disengagement problems and so..... I have put on a new tick adjustable master (which ROCKS!) and I've changed my peace of crap B&M short throw to MGW's new designed short throw (which I like a lot better) and my last issue with my shifting is just that getting into or down shifting to 3rd or 4th....or shifting from 3rd to 4rth just sometimes needs a little force. Is this a tranny fluid issue maybe? or does someone think I need to check my shifter alignment? (I haven't done this yet) Sometimes when I shift right at redline from 3rd to 4th...it scratches just a little bit and it just annoys me.
(I already have built my tranny btw, upgraded shift fork and pads, snycros and gears look perfect!)
What do ya'll think?
(I already have built my tranny btw, upgraded shift fork and pads, snycros and gears look perfect!)
What do ya'll think?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 408
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio Texas
Problem solved! I just got crazy and took apart my shifter and the shift mount on the torque tube. It appears that probably because of hard shifting that the shift mount had moved upwards(further away from the tranny) about a 1/4 inch or so. I readjusted it and did a trail an error on tightening/testing and sure enough. Wha-La 
Thanks for those who responded.
Thanks for those who responded.
Last edited by TexVette25; Sep 3, 2009 at 02:07 PM. Reason: error
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 408
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio Texas
So the typical shifter install only requires the removal of the 4 bolts that secure the shifter to the "Shift Plate"
This plate has 2 (T-40) bolts on the right hand side that bolts it to the top of the torque tube. Well I noticed that the bolts where tight but they also where not in the original position that they started (I could tell because there was a clean area that looks like where the bolt was originaly placed.
Anyways, I loosened the bolts and sure enough was able to adjust the "entire" shift plate forward and back and (slightly left to right)
All I did was trial and error and kept adjusting and tightening it and did a practice shift until I felt a much smoother gear engagement.
It of course is still a little notchy but thats just the design of a short throw shifter I guess.
The end result was that I had to move the "Shift plate" down about 3/8 of an inch (probably got out of alignment for shifting to 3 way to hard to many times).
Hope this helps.
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Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
A switch from oem rubber bushings (C5 coupe/convertible) to Z06 metal bushings at the attachment points might also help.
They won't degrade like the rubber bushings, but possibly at the expense of more vibrations/noise into the cabin...
They won't degrade like the rubber bushings, but possibly at the expense of more vibrations/noise into the cabin...
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
So the typical shifter install only requires the removal of the 4 bolts that secure the shifter to the "Shift Plate"
This plate has 2 (T-40) bolts on the right hand side that bolts it to the top of the torque tube. Well I noticed that the bolts where tight but they also where not in the original position that they started (I could tell because there was a clean area that looks like where the bolt was originaly placed.
Anyways, I loosened the bolts and sure enough was able to adjust the "entire" shift plate forward and back and (slightly left to right)
All I did was trial and error and kept adjusting and tightening it and did a practice shift until I felt a much smoother gear engagement.
It of course is still a little notchy but thats just the design of a short throw shifter I guess.
The end result was that I had to move the "Shift plate" down about 3/8 of an inch (probably got out of alignment for shifting to 3 way to hard to many times).
Hope this helps.
This plate has 2 (T-40) bolts on the right hand side that bolts it to the top of the torque tube. Well I noticed that the bolts where tight but they also where not in the original position that they started (I could tell because there was a clean area that looks like where the bolt was originaly placed.
Anyways, I loosened the bolts and sure enough was able to adjust the "entire" shift plate forward and back and (slightly left to right)
All I did was trial and error and kept adjusting and tightening it and did a practice shift until I felt a much smoother gear engagement.
It of course is still a little notchy but thats just the design of a short throw shifter I guess.
The end result was that I had to move the "Shift plate" down about 3/8 of an inch (probably got out of alignment for shifting to 3 way to hard to many times).
Hope this helps.
If you had followed the procedure for alignment using the alignment pin, you would have not had to do the "trail and error" work that you did.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 408
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio Texas
Alignment pin? I didn't have a problem where the shift arm meets the shift box? What are you reffering to?
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
In addition to this, I think XtremeVette's technique has merit too. Especially in the "fine tuning" area so-to-speak.