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Uhhhg, it never ends. Finally got the car back together, started it yesterday and it ran well but fired off a P0200 code after ~5 minutes. I snugged all my FAST injector adapters and it went away. Today, same thing did the re-snug and again it gets me maybe 5 minutes. So I pulled the FAST injector adapters wrapped them in electrical tape, cleaned the harness injector plug and reconnected. Now the P0200 just shows up from the start and you can tell the idle is a little off. The injectors should all be fine they're brand new. Another thing is due to my valve cover spacers the coil on the driver side pretty much touches the alternator.
How do I go about testing for a ground fault or similar?
Background info:
New injectors with the newer style plug
FAST injector plug adapaters
Uhhhg, it never ends. Finally got the car back together, started it yesterday and it ran well but fired off a P0200 code after ~5 minutes. I snugged all my FAST injector adapters and it went away. Today, same thing did the re-snug and again it gets me maybe 5 minutes. So I pulled the FAST injector adapters wrapped them in electrical tape, cleaned the harness injector plug and reconnected. Now the P0200 just shows up from the start and you can tell the idle is a little off. The injectors should all be fine they're brand new. Another thing is due to my valve cover spacers the coil on the driver side pretty much touches the alternator.
How do I go about testing for a ground fault or similar?
Background info:
New injectors with the newer style plug
FAST injector plug adapaters
Do you know anyone with a Tech II that can monitor the cylinders in real time for a misfire? Since the PCM controls each injector individually, you need to isolate the injector/circuit. I would say check the injector fuses, but if you had no power at all to a side, you should generate a P300.
Do you know anyone with a Tech II that can monitor the cylinders in real time for a misfire? Since the PCM controls each injector individually, you need to isolate the injector/circuit. I would say check the injector fuses, but if you had no power at all to a side, you should generate a P300.
No. Wouldn't a misfire in a specific cylinder report as an engine code like P0303 or similar?
No. Wouldn't a misfire in a specific cylinder report as an engine code like P0303 or similar?
Not necessarily-there is a threshold for misfires in a timeframe. Every cylinder misfires on occasion-if multiple misfires in a timeframe (1 or 2 seconds I seem to recall) that will set a P030X. I you see misfires on one cylinder more than the rest while watching on a scantool-it may give you a clue which one is sick.
No. Wouldn't a misfire in a specific cylinder report as an engine code like P0303 or similar?
Not necessarily. It helps to view the cylinders in real time to see slight misfires. If you can't hook up with someone with tuning software, etc, you'll need to check everything out with a DMM if physical inspection does not reveal anything.
Not necessarily. It helps to view the cylinders in real time to see slight misfires. If you can't hook up with someone with tuning software, etc, you'll need to check everything out with a DMM if physical inspection does not reveal anything.
How should I go about checking it? I've read about testing injector resistance but I'm 99.99% sure its not them considering they're brand new. With the car off and testing the injector plugs would it somehow show if there was a ground fault?
How should I go about checking it? I've read about testing injector resistance but I'm 99.99% sure its not them considering they're brand new. With the car off and testing the injector plugs would it somehow show if there was a ground fault?
Electrical issues are no fun.
Not sure why you are fixated on a ground fault, you may just be looking for an open, or intermittent contact....which could be power or ground.
Since the components are new, and you have a problem, you really can't "assume" they are good. Inspect the injector connectors for cracks, etc. You were already able to get the code to go away just by fiddling with the connectors, so something is up there. If you suspect one connector, just adjust the one, and see what happens. Messing with all of them at the same time does nothing for isolation. Nothing wrong with verifying the resistance. Inspect and check the injector adapters with a DMM to make sure you do not have a loose contact, flaky wire, etc. Start with what you have added new first.
Depending on how many times you've run the engine, the spark plugs might indicate the problem cylinder, if you cannot get a scanner.
Last edited by lucky131969; Sep 2, 2009 at 05:14 PM.
Not sure why you are fixated on a ground fault, you may just be looking for an open, or intermittent contact....which could be power or ground.
Since the components are new, and you have a problem, you really can't "assume" they are good. Inspect the injector connectors for cracks, etc. You were already able to get the code to go away just by fiddling with the connectors, so something is up there. If you suspect one connector, just adjust the one, and see what happens. Messing with all of them at the same time does nothing for isolation. Nothing wrong with verifying the resistance. Inspect and check the injector adapters with a DMM to make sure you do not have a loose contact, flaky wire, etc. Start with what you have added new first.
Depending on how many times you've run the engine, the spark plugs might indicate the problem cylinder, if you cannot get a scanner.
There's not many miles on the spark plugs. The new setup has about 1 hour of run time before I tore it down to swap timing chains, then as it is now it has about 20 minutes of total run time. I was also just thinking, some oil spilled on the bag I had the injector adapters in on this latest rebuild. I also saw what looked like wetness or liquid in a 2 or 3 injectors. Could oil cause a short/problem? How should I clean that? I tried with a q-tip/cotton but it didn't help much. It's also especially problematic if its up inside the adapter plug.
There's not many miles on the spark plugs. The new setup has about 1 hour of run time before I tore it down to swap timing chains, then as it is now it has about 20 minutes of total run time. I was also just thinking, some oil spilled on the bag I had the injector adapters in on this latest rebuild. I also saw what looked like wetness or liquid in a 2 or 3 injectors. Could oil cause a short/problem? How should I clean that? I tried with a q-tip/cotton but it didn't help much. It's also especially problematic if its up inside the adapter plug.
Yes, the injector connector should not have any fluid in them. Use electrical contact cleaner to spray inside the injector connectors you suspect have oil contamination. Do you have a DMM?
Yes, the injector connector should not have any fluid in them. Use electrical contact cleaner to spray inside the injector connectors you suspect have oil contamination. Do you have a DMM?
Digital multi-meter? If so, yes... need to find it. But yes its around somewhere in the garage.