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Lowering question (results)

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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 04:06 AM
  #1  
jamesge's Avatar
jamesge
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Racer
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From: Grove City Oh
Default Lowering question (results)

Ok, so I lowered my ZO6 today.

Rears first: I did the 1/2"x7" bolts. I reused the stock bushings. I show about three threads on both sides. The rear now sits nicely at 25.75" from floor to center of fender.

Now to the fronts: I disconnected the upper A arm, the lower shock bolts, and the sway bar end link. The leaf spring bushing separated nicely. However, I could NOT free up the threaded portion. I did not feel like messing with it. I then put a floor jack under the leaf spring with two hockey pucks on the jack. I was able to raise the leaf spring enough to get my sawzall in there. I simply cut the bolt off from under the leaf spring. I needed something now to place between leaf and control arm. I saw my rubber mallet sitting there. I took the sawzall, placed the rubber mallet in the vice, and cut me about an eighth inch slice of rubber off it. I then placed the slice in between the control arm and leaf as I re-assembled.

Question: Although I have not driven it with the front completed, will it settle? I measured 27" from floor to center of fender.

Thanks all, and GO STEELERS!
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 06:48 AM
  #2  
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JCamaro
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From: Nouvelle Ecosse
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You need to drive it....let it settle...then take measurements. It's also been posted that you should measure from the ground to the frame rails near the shipping tie down points (where you'd put your jacking pucks) instead of to the fenders due to body panel mis-alignment potential.

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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 01:09 PM
  #3  
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jamesge
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From: Grove City Oh
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I like to look at the fender heights.

I drove my car today. Front sits at 26", and rear at 25.75".

Also, when I did the passenger side, the bolt had been soaking overnight in PB Blaster. It unthreaded nicely. The drivers side was the only one I needed to cut off.

The key folks, soak that bolt overnight in PB Blaster! That stuff works wonders.
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