A/C issue. Please help..
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 299
Likes: 2
From: Grove City Oh
A/C issue. Please help..
As I was lowering the car today, I noticed oil/dye had leaked from rear of compressor.
Keep in mind, a month ago I repaced compressor, drier, condensor, etc. System was charged and no leaks were found. A/C was nice and cold.
Since I had car already jacked up and wheel off, I had the wife start the car so I could monitor the compressor. Sure enough, at the bottom A/C line (I know its one piece - but the bottom part of tube) there the leak was "hissing" out. I do remember hearing a "hissing" whenever I would turn the car off, before.
I went ahead and unbolted the compressor, and disconnected the A/C line (I figured it was going to leak out anyways). The bolt seemed tight. I just let the system leak the freon out (my english mastiff cocked her head the whole time listening to the leak out). I went ahead and installed two new o-ring washers on the A/C line, then reconnected the line and bolted the compressor back up. Will have it recharged tomorrow.
My question: Why do you think there was a leak? (the o-ring washers were both free of cracks and still looked new).
Keep in mind, a month ago I repaced compressor, drier, condensor, etc. System was charged and no leaks were found. A/C was nice and cold.
Since I had car already jacked up and wheel off, I had the wife start the car so I could monitor the compressor. Sure enough, at the bottom A/C line (I know its one piece - but the bottom part of tube) there the leak was "hissing" out. I do remember hearing a "hissing" whenever I would turn the car off, before.
I went ahead and unbolted the compressor, and disconnected the A/C line (I figured it was going to leak out anyways). The bolt seemed tight. I just let the system leak the freon out (my english mastiff cocked her head the whole time listening to the leak out). I went ahead and installed two new o-ring washers on the A/C line, then reconnected the line and bolted the compressor back up. Will have it recharged tomorrow.
My question: Why do you think there was a leak? (the o-ring washers were both free of cracks and still looked new).
Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 735
Likes: 7
From: Bucks County Pa
AC Leak
Hi, if you are sure that the actual hose doesn't have a pinhole leak around the collar area then the most likely answers to your question are, bad or wrong o rings, (R134 requires the newer type neoprene o rings, the older rubber type won't hold up),damage to the housing on the compressor, or the connector itself. Examine both for possible metal pitting or gouges. Improper installation is a possibility, may have been a bit crooked. O rings need to be coated with mineral base oil and fully seated to seal properly. See Instructions below..
Good Luck
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
O-Ring Replacement
Tools Required
J 39400-A Halogen Leak Detector
Removal Procedure
Recover the refrigerant from the A/C system. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging .
Disconnect the A/C refrigerant line.
For compression style fittings use a back up wrench on the fitting (2) and loosen the fitting nut (1).
For banjo style fittings remove the bolt retaining the banjo type fitting.
Important
Cap or tape the open A/C refrigerant line and the A/C refrigerant component immediately.
Disconnect the A/C line from the A/C component.
Cap or tape the A/C line and the A/C component to prevent system contamination, discard the O-ring seals.
Installation Procedure
Remove the cap or tape from the A/C line and the A/C component.
Using a lint-free clean, dry cloth, carefully clean the sealing surfaces of the A/C refrigerant line and the A/C refrigerant component.
Lightly coat the new O-ring seal with mineral base 525 viscosity refrigerant oil.
Important
DO NOT allow any of the mineral base 525 viscosity refrigerant oil on the new O-ring seal to enter the refrigerant system.
Carefully slide the new O-ring seal onto the A/C refrigerant line.
The O-ring seal must be fully seated.
Connect the A/C line.
For compression style fittings use a back up wrench on the fitting (2) and tighten the fitting nut (1) to specification.
For banjo style fittings install the bolt retaining the banjo type fitting and tighten to specification.
Evacuate and recharge the A/C system. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging .
Leak test the fittings of the component using J 39400-A .
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Compressor Sealing Washers Replacement
Tools Required
J 39400-A Halogen Leak Detector
Removal Procedure
Recover the refrigerant. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging .
Remove the battery heat shield. Refer to Battery Heat Shield Replacement in Engine Electrical.
Remove the compressor hose to compressor retaining bolt.
Important
Cap or tape the open compressor hose and the compressor immediately.
Disconnect the compressor hose from the compressor, discard the seal washers and cap or tape the hose end and the compressor to prevent contamination.
Installation Procedure
Remove the cap or tape from the compressor hose end (2) and the compressor (3).
Using a lint-free clean, dry cloth, carefully clean the sealing surfaces of the compressor hose (2) and the compressor (3).
Lightly coat the new seal washers (1) with mineral base 525 viscosity refrigerant oil.
Important
DO NOT allow any of the mineral base 525 viscosity refrigerant oil on the seal washers to enter the refrigerant system.
Carefully slide the new seal washers (1) onto the compressor hose (2) until seated.
Install the compressor hose to the compressor.
Install the compressor hose to compressor retaining bolt.
Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Important
After tightening the compressor hose (3) to the compressor (2), there should be a slight sealing washer gap (1) of approximately 1.2 mm (3/64 in) between the compressor hose (3) and the compressor (2).
Tighten the compressor hose to compressor retaining bolt. Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 26 N·m (19 lb ft).
Install the battery heat shield. Refer to Battery Heat Shield Replacement in Engine Electrical.
Evacuate and charge the refrigerant system. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging .
Leak test the fittings of the component using J 39400-A .
Good Luck
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
O-Ring Replacement
Tools Required
J 39400-A Halogen Leak Detector
Removal Procedure
Recover the refrigerant from the A/C system. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging .
Disconnect the A/C refrigerant line.
For compression style fittings use a back up wrench on the fitting (2) and loosen the fitting nut (1).
For banjo style fittings remove the bolt retaining the banjo type fitting.
Important
Cap or tape the open A/C refrigerant line and the A/C refrigerant component immediately.
Disconnect the A/C line from the A/C component.
Cap or tape the A/C line and the A/C component to prevent system contamination, discard the O-ring seals.
Installation Procedure
Remove the cap or tape from the A/C line and the A/C component.
Using a lint-free clean, dry cloth, carefully clean the sealing surfaces of the A/C refrigerant line and the A/C refrigerant component.
Lightly coat the new O-ring seal with mineral base 525 viscosity refrigerant oil.
Important
DO NOT allow any of the mineral base 525 viscosity refrigerant oil on the new O-ring seal to enter the refrigerant system.
Carefully slide the new O-ring seal onto the A/C refrigerant line.
The O-ring seal must be fully seated.
Connect the A/C line.
For compression style fittings use a back up wrench on the fitting (2) and tighten the fitting nut (1) to specification.
For banjo style fittings install the bolt retaining the banjo type fitting and tighten to specification.
Evacuate and recharge the A/C system. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging .
Leak test the fittings of the component using J 39400-A .
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Compressor Sealing Washers Replacement
Tools Required
J 39400-A Halogen Leak Detector
Removal Procedure
Recover the refrigerant. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging .
Remove the battery heat shield. Refer to Battery Heat Shield Replacement in Engine Electrical.
Remove the compressor hose to compressor retaining bolt.
Important
Cap or tape the open compressor hose and the compressor immediately.
Disconnect the compressor hose from the compressor, discard the seal washers and cap or tape the hose end and the compressor to prevent contamination.
Installation Procedure
Remove the cap or tape from the compressor hose end (2) and the compressor (3).
Using a lint-free clean, dry cloth, carefully clean the sealing surfaces of the compressor hose (2) and the compressor (3).
Lightly coat the new seal washers (1) with mineral base 525 viscosity refrigerant oil.
Important
DO NOT allow any of the mineral base 525 viscosity refrigerant oil on the seal washers to enter the refrigerant system.
Carefully slide the new seal washers (1) onto the compressor hose (2) until seated.
Install the compressor hose to the compressor.
Install the compressor hose to compressor retaining bolt.
Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Important
After tightening the compressor hose (3) to the compressor (2), there should be a slight sealing washer gap (1) of approximately 1.2 mm (3/64 in) between the compressor hose (3) and the compressor (2).
Tighten the compressor hose to compressor retaining bolt. Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 26 N·m (19 lb ft).
Install the battery heat shield. Refer to Battery Heat Shield Replacement in Engine Electrical.
Evacuate and charge the refrigerant system. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging .
Leak test the fittings of the component using J 39400-A .
Last edited by bestvettever; Sep 9, 2009 at 10:10 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 299
Likes: 2
From: Grove City Oh
The leak was coming from the mating surface of the A/C line and the compressor.
I had originally replaced the disk-style o-ring with new ones. Maybe I did not seat them properly on the tubes. Not sure how you can put them on wrong. I re-oiled these new ones, and slid them on the A/C lines. I hope this doesnt leak. Hardest part was threading and tightening the bolt that holds the line on to the compressor. No room to maneuver.
I had originally replaced the disk-style o-ring with new ones. Maybe I did not seat them properly on the tubes. Not sure how you can put them on wrong. I re-oiled these new ones, and slid them on the A/C lines. I hope this doesnt leak. Hardest part was threading and tightening the bolt that holds the line on to the compressor. No room to maneuver.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 719
Likes: 21
From: Miami Fl
Hi,
I don't mean to hijack your thread. I have a leak where the a/c manifold bolts up to the compressor. I had this problem a year and half ago and i replaced the washer/seal rings and now its leaking again. Can you give me some advice on where you purchased those seals?
I bought mine at Advance Auto parts and I think they may have not been the best quality. Also i have a really hard time accessing the bolt that holds the manifold to the compressor since the long tube headers run right behind it.
I don't mean to hijack your thread. I have a leak where the a/c manifold bolts up to the compressor. I had this problem a year and half ago and i replaced the washer/seal rings and now its leaking again. Can you give me some advice on where you purchased those seals?
I bought mine at Advance Auto parts and I think they may have not been the best quality. Also i have a really hard time accessing the bolt that holds the manifold to the compressor since the long tube headers run right behind it.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 115
Likes: 9
From: Tampa FL
Me Too
Same problem. I replaced the o-rings about a year ago with GM dealer parts. Everything worked fine for about six months +/- then I got a leak again - and it looks like the same place. I've never had the compressor out, but figured maybe there was a seal in the middle somewhere and it was leaking. I know the front isn't leaking.
Are these seals like the pesky oil pressure sender - you never know what you are going to get? Any others have this recurring problem?
In my case, I dipped the seals in oil before installing and it is hard to mess up the installation alignment.
Dave
Are these seals like the pesky oil pressure sender - you never know what you are going to get? Any others have this recurring problem?
In my case, I dipped the seals in oil before installing and it is hard to mess up the installation alignment.
Dave
Pro
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 719
Likes: 21
From: Miami Fl
Same problem. I replaced the o-rings about a year ago with GM dealer parts. Everything worked fine for about six months +/- then I got a leak again - and it looks like the same place. I've never had the compressor out, but figured maybe there was a seal in the middle somewhere and it was leaking. I know the front isn't leaking.
Are these seals like the pesky oil pressure sender - you never know what you are going to get? Any others have this recurring problem?
In my case, I dipped the seals in oil before installing and it is hard to mess up the installation alignment.
Dave
Are these seals like the pesky oil pressure sender - you never know what you are going to get? Any others have this recurring problem?
In my case, I dipped the seals in oil before installing and it is hard to mess up the installation alignment.
Dave
yeah the compressor has two big o rings around the center, they leak at around 140k miles. i rebuilt my compressor and fixed that leak. its a pain to rebuild the comprressor! the seal kit for the rebuild was 15 bucks but i think advance auto doesn't carry it online anymore. put the dye in and check with the uv light if it leaks in the center where the front half meets the rear half.
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