When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
After a 20 min drive home from work I changed clothes and went back out of the drive.( Car was hot.) After getting on it a bit out of the drive I turned onto my road and went about 3/4 throttle and shifted 2nd, About 3/4 throttle again and it started chattering like it wasn't fully in gear. I pushed in the clutch and just went ahead into 3rd and IT DID IT AGAIN.
I turned around and headed back home and any time I applied more than a cracked throttle it chattered. All gears, even reverse. It's not popping out of gear, just acting like it.
I've toasted clutches before but it's always been a gradual decline and usually no real noise except engine revving when they slip.
Thanks, Randy
PS. 460rwhp daily driver with about 35k on stock clutch since mods. 60k total miles...A couple trips to the track but not driven hard daily.
I think this will solve your problem -Have you tried changing out your clutch fluid -if its black suck it out with your wifes turkey baster,wipe out all the black crap and use PRESTONE Dot 3 Synthetic ! Its the only one i have found that doesn't react with the rubber booty! Do this (weekly)until your fluid stays clear I don't have any problems with my (stock) clutch now and i'm running over 600 rwhp-72k miles Hope this helps bro
I think this will solve your problem -Have you tried changing out your clutch fluid -if its black suck it out with your wifes turkey baster,wipe out all the black crap and use PRESTONE Dot 3 Synthetic ! Its the only one i have found that doesn't react with the rubber booty! Do this (weekly)until your fluid stays clear I don't have any problems with my (stock) clutch now and i'm running over 600 rwhp-72k miles Hope this helps bro
I think this will solve your problem -Have you tried changing out your clutch fluid -if its black suck it out with your wifes turkey baster,wipe out all the black crap and use PRESTONE Dot 3 Synthetic ! Its the only one i have found that doesn't react with the rubber booty! Do this (weekly)until your fluid stays clear I don't have any problems with my (stock) clutch now and i'm running over 600 rwhp-72k miles Hope this helps bro
I have done this many times in the past trying to remedy the old "sticky pedal syndrome".
I can't "do this weekly" because I can't drive the car.
Besides. please tell me how dirty fluid would all the sudden make my clutch chatter?
Use the Ranger clutch fluid method. However, I recommend a large syringe (get it from a livestock feed store) it's dripless, unlike the baster.
Change it once a week for the rest of your life.
If the car won't move, or doesn't seem to be engaging gears properly, you've probably toasted that clutch. If you change it, get a remote bleeder installed. Clutch fluid maintenance is key in these cars.
Use the Ranger clutch fluid method. However, I recommend a large syringe (get it from a livestock feed store) it's dripless, unlike the baster.
Change it once a week for the rest of your life.
If the car won't move, or doesn't seem to be engaging gears properly, you've probably toasted that clutch. If you change it, get a remote bleeder installed. Clutch fluid maintenance is key in these cars.
BTW, that noise is the throwout bearing.
Ok, I'll bite, how would the throwout bearing not make any noise while engageing/ disengageing but only when applying load and then cause the clutch to slip once fully engaged?
Another opinion was the disc hub has completely broken free of the outer ring. I have very limited power transfer to the wheels and then it starts to slip and make a grinding noise once power is applied.
Ok, I'll bite, how would the throwout bearing not make any noise while engageing/ disengageing but only when applying load and then cause the clutch to slip once fully engaged?
Another opinion was the disc hub has completely broken free of the outer ring. I have very limited power transfer to the wheels and then it starts to slip and make a grinding noise once power is applied.
Agreed, but I have heard a destroyed TOB make noise all the time. IDK maybe it's the complete assy. or the pressure plate. Either way sounds like you need a new clutch. And the only 100% diagnosis will come from a re and re.
Maybe it's the torque tube coupler? The mode of failure seems odd for it to be a clutch but maybe.
I can't see how servicing the hydraulics would have anything to do with this problem. Hydraulics are out of the equation when the clutch is engaged.
Not familiar with the torque tube coupler. Could it make noise/and begin slipping at light to medium throttle, but quiet down and re-engage under idle/ light load?
Whitelite,
Just so you don't feel alone in this, on my way home from work I goosed it to get thru a yellow lite and this God awful noise erupted...nursed it home (lucky I was close), it makes noise in every gear but could get it to go once engaged. I am thinking the clutch is gone too. How hard are these to change?
Whitelite,
Just so you don't feel alone in this, on my way home from work I goosed it to get thru a yellow lite and this God awful noise erupted...nursed it home (lucky I was close), it makes noise in every gear but could get it to go once engaged. I am thinking the clutch is gone too. How hard are these to change?
After several hours I got to the clutch and it looks fine. Going to change it anyway and now I'm on to the torque tube couplers when I get another day to work on it.
This is a pretty big job for a first timer, even on a hoist. It's harder than I thought but I would do it again.
OP describes my day to a T. Car will limp along if I don't give it any gas, but as soon as I touch the gas it chatters like mad. I guess it's clutch time. I'm stock power with 51,000 miles btw