I am helping a friend put a Raptor shift light in his 02 Z06. We found the correct white wire going to the instrument cluster. We needed to find a switched 12 volt wire so my friend probed the orange wire in the same group of wires that goes to the instrument cluster. He thinks he accidentally touched the probe to the metal brace and shorted something out, although there were no sparks or anything. So now the instrument lights don't work, the radio doesn't work and the engine will not crank. When the key is on, the check engine light on the dash lights up, the light telling you the parking brake is on lights up, headlights work, taillights, brake lights, power seat and fan. We pulled every fuse we can think of both in the car and under the hood and find nothing blown.

Could it be one of the relays in the fuse box? How do you tell if they are bad? What relay or fuse has instrument cluster lights, radio and cranking in common? I suppose the cranking doesn't have to be something big like the starter, it might be something minor like the neutral safety switch. Again, I checked every fuse in the car and nothing is blown. The orange wire he was probing at the time is not cut or damaged in any way.

Anyone have any ideas?

 

OK, which wire did you short to ground?
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Connector Part Information
12065803
34-Way F Micro-Pack 100 Series (BLK)

Pin
Wire Color
Circuit No.
Function

A1
--
--
Not Used

A2
LT GRN
11
Headlamp High Beam Supply Voltage

A3
WHT
103
Headlamp Switch Headlamps On Signal

A4
BLK/WHT
99
Windshield Washer Fluid Level Signal

A5
--
--
Not Used

A6
TAN/WHT
33
Brake Warning Indicator Control

A7
DK GRN/WHT
817
VSS Signal

A8
BLK
150
Ground

A9
--
--
Not Used

A10
DK GRN/WHT
357
Oil Temperature Sensor Signal

A11
GRY
1036
IPC Class 2 Serial Data

A12
--
--
Not Used

A13
PNK
139
Ignition 1 Voltage

A14
ORN
1640
Battery Positive Voltage

A15
LT BLU
14
Turn Signal Lamp Feed-LF

A16
DK BLU
15
Turn Signal Lamp Feed-RF

A17
WHT
121
Engine Speed Signal

B1
--
--
Not Used

B2
BLK/WHT
238
Driver Seat Belt Switch Signal

B3
--
--
Not Used

B4
PPL
333
Brake Warning Indicator Supply Voltage [1]

B5
WHT
717
Illuminated Display Signal

B6
GRY/BLK
1458
Instrument Panel Lamp Supply Voltage - 4

B7
--
--
Not Used

B8
BLK
470
Low Reference

B9-B10
--
--
Not Used

B11
WHT
375
Skip Shift Indicator Control

B12
--
--
Not Used

B13
BLK/WHT
851
Ground

B14
--
--
Not Used

B15
BLK
150
Ground

B16
BRN/WHT
419
MIL Control

B17
BRN
9
Park Lamp Supply Voltage

 

We believe it was;

A14
ORN
1640
Battery Positive Voltage

 

Read and post the DTCs.

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc…)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.

Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

Here is very good site of DTC definitions:


http://www.gearchatter.com


Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!


bc

 

First, replace fuse #25, IP Fuse Block.

 

Replaced #25 fuse passenger side floor (no #25 in engine compartment)
It wasn't blown and no change with the new fuse.

I can't read any codes because the DIC won't light up. The only thing on dash that lights up when the key is turned on is the check engine light, the seat belt light and the parking brake light.

 

I assume you have disconnected the battery for 30 seconds, and reconnected....

 

Got voltage on Fuse #25?
----------------------------------------------------

 

Yes, 12 volts where fuse #25 plugs in.
I'm not sure I totally understand the wiring diagram, but I sure appreciate your help.

I unhooked battery for a couple minutes - no change.

 

Check the voltage to both fuse to ground. Theres are TWO little slots on the top of each fuse. They are test slots. Check the fuse test slots (both of them to ground.

Make sure that you check fuse# 19 with ignition switch ON.

BC

 

I had the # 25 fuse out to check for voltage. I then pulled #19 to check for voltage. (It is hot with key on.) I put back #19 and then #25. When #25 went in the lights on the dash and the DIC came on (I still had the key on from checking #19). The DIC had a pull key and wait 10 sec message, I did that. Then with key back on I got a low voltage message. I turned it off and put the charger on the battery. I'm going to leave it on overnight and see if it all works in the morning.

I don't know whats going on, but the DIC and dash lights working is sure a good sign.

 

Whatever it takes

 

Keep in mind that,,,this sounds like your getting what looks like an IGNITION SWITCH failure. If you are,,,,it will be back.

As a preventive measure, you can remove and repair your ignition switch. It quite simple and FREE!

Heres the link to my ignition switch repair post:

- http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html

Please let us know what you find.

BC

 

Well after charging battery all night things started looking better, but still had no dash lights. I checked all the fuses again and found #19 blown. I replaced it and unhooked the battery for 30 min. That worked!

Put everything back together and everything works great. Thanks everyone for the help.