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Took out the vette no issues - left the gym and it was dead. Had to get it flat bedded back to the house.
When I try to start the car it make one click and nothing else. The battery seems to be fully charged (also tried to jump it) so I am thinking starter. I did a search and found a good post on checking some codes -will check that next.
So couple questions - will a code specifigcally tell me if I have a bad starter? If its a starter where you guys buying new one(AC Delco was $400) thought that was alot. Also anyone have a pic of where the starter is? I want to try to do the 'hit it' with a hammer to see if it will turn over.
Took out the vette no issues - left the gym and it was dead. Had to get it flat bedded back to the house.
When I try to start the car it make one click and nothing else. The battery seems to be fully charged (also tried to jump it) so I am thinking starter. I did a search and found a good post on checking some codes -will check that next.
So couple questions - will a code specifigcally tell me if I have a bad starter? If its a starter where you guys buying new one(AC Delco was $400) thought that was alot. Also anyone have a pic of where the starter is? I want to try to do the 'hit it' with a hammer to see if it will turn over.
Thanks guys/gals
Hold off on changing expensive parts (and the Cro-magnon beating of the starter) until you have isolated the problem. Need to check for 12 volts at the solenoid when you try to start the car first. Also, a general inspection of all wiring at the starter.
The solenoid is the electrical center of the car. Battery, alternator and starter all connect right there. Make sure that connection is clean and tight, not burned. When you attempt to start, make sure the security light on the IP Cluster is not flashing. When you turn the key to the start position, do you hear a click in the passenger footwell? Have you pulled your codes?
Cro-magnon beating of the starter That made my day!
Manual or Auto car???????? I agree.
There are a significant number of things to check before you REPLACE a starter.
Ive owned a C5 since late 97 and worked on hundered of C5 and have NEVER seen a truely BAD starter motor.
Ive seen numerous bad solenoids and countless numbers of bad connections/improperly wired starters and burnt up connections on the starter solenoids but, ZERO bad starter motors. Im sure that there have been some on very high mileage C5. There pretty bullet proof.
The point Im trying to make is,,,figure out what is really wrong before you start with the BIG things. It might be something as simple as a loose battery cable or bad connection on the solenoid.
I have a schematic of the starting circuit at home (at work right now) and if no one post it before then, I will post it for you.
sorry, little OT, but does anyone have a wiring diagram for the starter/soleniod? I see the diagram posted in this thread, but it isn't really giving me what I think I need.
I am trying to figure out which wires go on the larger lugs of the soleniod. one side has a braided wire on it that goes into the starter. the other side does not. the side without the braided wire gets the larger red cable. the large black cable is block ground along with a smaller wire.
I know the smaller ring terminaly goes to the small lug on the soleniod.
then I have 2 wires that appear to have fuseable links. both start out as red, one larger than the other. the smaller one turns to a black wire after the fuseable link. the larger red wire turns to more of an orange color after the link. just trying to figure out which lugs these 2 wires go on. I have searched, but nothing is coming up that is this specific.
from the schematic above it looks like the lug with the large red wire from the battery gets an additional wire and so then the other lug with the braided wire going into the starter gets the other wire. just not sure which goes where.
any help is appreciated
Last edited by TRBO VNM; Sep 24, 2009 at 11:38 AM.
Bill has some great close-up pictures of the solenoid connections for you in the electrical sticky above. Do not forget that if the battery is connected above, the solenoid connections are electrically HOT! You can and will, weld your wrench to the frame, motor or whatever it touchs and possibly explode the battery. So please disconnect your battery's negative terminal first before working on things down there.
Bill has some great close-up pictures of the solenoid connections for you in the electrical sticky above. Do not forget that if the battery is connected above, the solenoid connections are electrically HOT! You can and will, weld your wrench to the frame, motor or whatever it touchs and possibly explode the battery. So please disconnect your battery's negative terminal first before working on things down there.
thanks. yeah, battery has been disconnected. I saw one pic in that thread and it appears both fuseable links and the large red go to the same lug. not sure why I thought the other lug had another wire on it.
Your getting a LOT of U series DTC's Disassemble the rubber accordion tubes between each door and disconnect the door connectors and see if there are any changes in the symptoms. If the serial buss is having issues, it can cause the car not to start. Been there!
From: Manchester - Political correctness is tyranny with manners.
I had a battery cable work loose once. It acted the same way. I tightened it in the parking lot, and went on my way. I doubt it was really the starter.