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what cars do these brass sensors come off of? i couldnt get the allen bolt loose in the front of the block to do the relocation kit, and so i need to buy a higher quality sensor and hope to god that it lasts.
what cars do these brass sensors come off of? i couldnt get the allen bolt loose in the front of the block to do the relocation kit, and so i need to buy a higher quality sensor and hope to god that it lasts.
Don't give up, get some help. Any forum members in Michigan can give this guy a hand?
Don't give up, get some help. Any forum members in Michigan can give this guy a hand?
i was rocking the entire car trying to get this thing loose and bending the crap out of my allen wrench. i think an allen wrech of this size will probably break before this thing comes loose. it isnt going anywhere. on a car with 106k miles its probably practically fused to the block at this point.
i was rocking the entire car trying to get this thing loose and bending the crap out of my allen wrench. i think an allen wrech of this size will probably break before this thing comes loose. it isnt going anywhere. on a car with 106k miles its probably practically fused to the block at this point.
You can't get enough leverage with a little hex key. You need to use a hex key socket with a socket wrench.
IMO brass oil pressure as the best is somewhat of a myth. You do need a good sensor, but you need to take care in installing it as well (correct torque setting and be clean). Mine is a borg warner unit and is soon to be on its third engine. It is AL not brass. The previous ones died within weeks of installing, a major PIA. But, when I did some homework and found a manufacture I had confidence in, and then installed it carefully, then big surprise: it has worked ever since.
IMO brass oil pressure as the best is somewhat of a myth. You do need a good sensor, but you need to take care in installing it as well (correct torque setting and be clean). Mine is a borg warner unit and is soon to be on its third engine. It is AL not brass. The previous ones died within weeks of installing, a major PIA. But, when I did some homework and found a manufacture I had confidence in, and then installed it carefully, then big surprise: it has worked ever since.
I found NAPA carried them, but check who the manufacture is when they look up the part number. Its been a couple of years so not sure if they still carry that line.
I found NAPA carried them, but check who the manufacture is when they look up the part number. Its been a couple of years so not sure if they still carry that line.
should i tell them its for a corvette or a buick...? and just ask for the borg warner one huh? u have any idea what the part number is for yours?
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by MattB
IMO brass oil pressure as the best is somewhat of a myth. You do need a good sensor, but you need to take care in installing it as well (correct torque setting and be clean). Mine is a borg warner unit and is soon to be on its third engine. It is AL not brass. The previous ones died within weeks of installing, a major PIA. But, when I did some homework and found a manufacture I had confidence in, and then installed it carefully, then big surprise: it has worked ever since.
I too have an aluminum unit on my car (for over 2 years now) with no leaks. It is attached to a stainless relocate hose similar to yours. I bought my set-up from DPE. I think there may have been an improvement in the internal design of these things at some point over the last few years, and the once-reasonably-accurate contention that only the brass units are to be trusted is no longer true. Combine that with the EOP sensor being moved away from heat/vibration, and no more leakage. At least I hope that's the case. One things for sure, if it does start to leak it will be super easy to replace.
Try to heat the plug up. That will sometimes do it.
Also, if you havent done so, try to access it from the wheel well, so you can get some extra leverage. Some of these suckers are really tight, but they WILL break loose.
BTW, it will NOT break loose with a regular allen wrench. Grab a 3/8" ratchet, with an 8mm allen head socket. That will do the trick. (hopefully) HAHA
Originally Posted by SaberD
what cars do these brass sensors come off of? i couldnt get the allen bolt loose in the front of the block to do the relocation kit, and so i need to buy a higher quality sensor and hope to god that it lasts.
i have decided to use the standard sensor and make my own hydraulic relocation kit using some brass fittings and 3/8" copper tubing running from the stock location. im gonna do it this weekend and ill make a new thread with pics.
i have decided to use the standard sensor and make my own hydraulic relocation kit using some brass fittings and 3/8" copper tubing running from the stock location. im gonna do it this weekend and ill make a new thread with pics.
Copper tubing is not a good idea. It does not hold up well to vibration.
Copper tubing is not a good idea. It does not hold up well to vibration.
as long at both ends of the tube are secured there should not be a problem. however, if i dont secure the sensor, and let it flop around under the frc then yeah the copper tubing will eventually fatigue. ill probably secure it to the fuel rail somehow.
SaberD:
I had the same issue with the plug, so I just got the new design brass unit and put it in the stock location. It's been 4,000 miles & no problems...See my post for more info: