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I had a thread concerning a short that cause fused #2 to pop (footwell). This is the circuit for the underhood light, fader mirror control, map lights, and vanity mirror.
I finally gave up the basic diagnostic routine (pull bulbs, plugging in fuses, repeatedly blowing fuses). I am a total dufus on spark chasing.
Took the Z by a local Vette mechanic. Turned out to be a stuck relay in the circuit. Was charged only one hour labor (he spent 3 on it) and the price of the part.
I'm assuming that one crude diagnostic would be to bridge the fuse contacts, a stuck relay would heat up to the point of going supernova. Is there another less combustible way of checking relays?
I had a thread concerning a short that cause fused #2 to pop (footwell). This is the circuit for the underhood light, fader mirror control, map lights, and vanity mirror.
I finally gave up the basic diagnostic routine (pull bulbs, plugging in fuses, repeatedly blowing fuses). I am a total dufus on spark chasing.
Took the Z by a local Vette mechanic. Turned out to be a stuck relay in the circuit. Was charged only one hour labor (he spent 3 on it) and the price of the part.
I'm assuming that one crude diagnostic would be to bridge the fuse contacts, a stuck relay would heat up to the point of going supernova. Is there another less combustible way of checking relays?
I dont see how a "stuck" relay would cause this problem if there isnt another problem downstream from it.I merely supplies voltage,if it left components "on" it would simply run down the battery. Maybe it had an internal short to ground?
The OPEN & CLOSED contacts that change states when the relay operates.
The COIL that gets 12 VDC battery voltage when the relay is energized that pulls the relay arm to move the movable contacts.
The COIL has a engineered resistance that allows it to be connected to the battery "circuit" and properly operate without overheating or dropping out. That resistance is measured in OHMs. Its usually 1-10 ohms (depending on how frequently or how long it is energized) but,,,if the internal COIL degrades and shorts (wire wraps break down and cause a Short circuit with in the coil making LESS coil resistance), the resistance changes to LESS than the engineered resistance and the fuse that protects the circuit sees more current than its designed to see and it BLOWS.
If you look in the GM Service manual and troubleshoot a DTC, or problem, the bubble chart will provide you the relay coil resistance that is expected.
Valid point if the coil shorts out...then it certainly could blow the fuse. The relay would then result in being stuck so maybe this is what they found.
A stuck relay WILL blow a fuse on the circuit that is in the coil circuit. The reason is because of the pull in current required to mechanically move the relays moveable tips. If the moveable part doesn't fully move to the closed position, the flux lines caused by the current in the coil remain unsaturated (a little electro-magnetic theory) and the coil heats up causing even higher current. Suffice it to say, a stuck relay will in fact blow a fuse, with no grounds or shorts!!
This Thread contains some correct info, and some incorrect info. Before I say anymore, I want someone to look at the schematic and tell me which relay could stick and blow Fuse #2.
[QUOTE=byronhunter;1571667771]This Thread contains some correct info, and some incorrect info. Before I say anymore, I want someone to look at the schematic and tell me which relay could stick and blow Fuse #2.QUOTE]
If you're refering to my responce, you may want to rethink your comment. My post didn't say anything about #2 fuse or any particular relay. It was worded as an explaination of how a mechanically stuck relay can blow a fuse without any shorts or grounds. In my business, (power plant electrical maintenance) we see it all the time.
I don't remember which relay the guy replaced (I'll ask the next time). All I know is that that circuit is working perfectly now. I've gone out of my way to test it, because the shop guy said he wasn't 100% sure that was it or there was something else down the line.
I'll crank on the fader, vanity lights, both map lights and open the hood for extended time just to put on a load and test. Does just fine. Bad relay, looks like.