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what timing set would be best for my head/cammed 01 zo6. long story short i NEED to degree my already installed cam. power isn't coming in until after 4,000 rpms!!
what timing set would be best for my head/cammed 01 zo6. long story short i NEED to degree my already installed cam. power isn't coming in until after 4,000 rpms!!
There seems to be little question this is the best chain ever produced...at $340 for the timing set, it's not the cheapest...but then again, you asked for the best, and adjustable.
At the slow rate they are selling them out, I may pick one up myself before they're gone for good.
You can get the same hexadjust sprockets with lesser chains at much cheaper prices. They will get the job done too, and I'd opt for one of them before going to a double roller.
How big is your cam? Depending on the size, power coming on strong at that RPM may just be a symptom of the cam itself. Advancing it may help some, but it probably won't cure it completely.
Also, when advancing your cam, you'll want to recheck piston to valve clearance on the intake side.
cool thanks for the quick responses, i actually want to order some parts tonight. someone said earlier that that comp part i was talking about earlier IS the cloyes set???
cool thanks for the quick responses, i actually want to order some parts tonight. someone said earlier that that comp part i was talking about earlier IS the cloyes set???
It probably is, but NOT with that chain I linked above.
The Cloyes sprocket set can be used with many different chains...stock (LS2), Katech, IRL. The better the chain, the more $$ the set will cost.
Originally Posted by lucky131969
Even with an adjustable timing set, you may not have enough to get you where you want to be.
With +/- 10° of adjustment range, I cannot ever see needing to move a cam that much to reach it's spec'd ICL.
How big is your cam? Depending on the size, power coming on strong at that RPM may just be a symptom of the cam itself. Advancing it may help some, but it probably won't cure it completely.
Also, when advancing your cam, you'll want to recheck piston to valve clearance on the intake side.
its a 236/240 608 114+3 i think. i was supposed to have put it in at 111 degrees. put it in dot to dot and it only made 416 with prc heads/longtubes/vararam.
i know my injector duty cycle is at 100% , but cam timing is the only thing the tuner could come up with.
i'm getting ready to get my car running correct with the adj timing set
42 lb injectors
spec 2 clutch
asp pulley
Before you spend a single dime I would recommend degreeing the cam with the chain you have already. Check it first to see if that's your problem. Then do a leak down test, this will show if the valves are sealing properly or not. If the valves aren't sealing it's not going to make power.
Before you spend a single dime I would recommend degreeing the cam with the chain you have already. Check it first to see with that's your problem. Then do a leak down test, this will show if the valves are sealing properly or not. If the valves aren't sealing it's not going to make power.
i did do a compression check and that came back perfect. I thought the stock timing set was not adjustable. Im using the tuners cam andd he was almost positive it is cam timing. What kind of numbers would u expect from that head/cam combo. Keep in mind its on a stock ls6 intake and injectors
i did do a compression check and that came back perfect. I thought the stock timing set was not adjustable. Im using the tuners cam andd he was almost positive it is cam timing. What kind of numbers would u expect from that head/cam combo. Keep in mind its on a stock ls6 intake and injectors
A compression test is useless on a deal like this. You need to do a Leak Down test to see if the valves are leaking.
The stock isn't adjustable, but you should still degree it to see if it's off or not. If you have it on right I bet it's with in a degree or so.
As for the power, I'd say with that size cam it should be around 450rwhp if the heads are good and the timing is right. The 114 LSA will also move the power out a little.
oh i see what you mean. good idea about degreeing it the way it is, BUT i'm still going to order one just in case its off. its its 2 degrees late ex: 113 its probably worth chaning and getting it at 111 right?
A 114lsa cam with 3° advance should be at 111 ICL when set dot-to-dot, yes.
The fact it's still a 114 lsa cam will inherently push the powerband up in the rpm range. Advancing it can lower that peak point somewhat, but it won't dramatically the change peak power output.
If you're unhappy with 416rwhp....whether you make that peak number at 6400 rpm now, or at 6200 rpm after advancing the cam, it won't suddenly make 450rwhp, which are the results you seem to be expecting.
I was a little low on the power, forgot you have a manual trans.
A new chain is a good idea and should have been used in the first place. I've seen manual cars break the LS2 chains and mock the heads up. I would love to see you degree what you have in there before you remove it. If you check it and the timing is good you know to start looking at other things even if you install a new chain.
The 111 is the ICL it's a 114 LSA with 3 * of advance ground in it. Should have been a 111 LSA if you wanted a good pulling cam not a peak #.
A 114lsa cam with 3° advance should be at 111 ICL when set dot-to-dot, yes.
The fact it's still a 114 lsa cam will inherently push the powerband up in the rpm range. Advancing it can lower that peak point somewhat, but it won't dramatically the change peak power output.
If you're unhappy with 416rwhp....whether you make that peak number at 6400 rpm now, or at 6200 rpm after advancing the cam, it won't suddenly make 450rwhp, which are the results you seem to be expecting.
This is right, that's why I'm saying do a leak down test. I really don't fill his low power is in the timing.
oh i didn't mention i did put an ls2 chain in when i did the cam swap. if i had a bent valve or a valve that wasn't sealing i wouldn't have compression though correct?
oh i didn't mention i did put an ls2 chain in when i did the cam swap. if i had a bent valve or a valve that wasn't sealing i wouldn't have compression though correct?
If the valves aren't sealing properly you would still have compresion. I dought you have a bent valve. But you did check PTV clearance when you did the install didn't you. And what lenght pushrods did you use and what was the preload?
If the valves aren't sealing properly you would still have compresion. I dought you have a bent valve. But you did check PTV clearance when you did the install didn't you. And what lenght pushrods did you use and what was the preload?
i used some comp pushrods my tuner gave me, and i didn't physically check clearence, my tuner ground the cam and knew exactly what heads/gaskets etc etc was going on, he's done a few of these cams in my exact size. if i had a bent valve, would it still run as good as it is? i mean it runs like crazy, it ran right next to or even a little quicker than my buddy's head/cammed ls1 that "alledgedly" did 439 @ the wheels. if it had a bent valve wouldn't it run like crap?
Even though your tuner has done several of these setups every car isn't the same. So they don't all require the same pushrod lenght. That said pushrods aren't your problem here.
I'm not saying you have a bent valve. You just need to do a leak down test to see if they are sealing properly. They don't have to be bent to leak.
Timing most likely isn't the problem so know you need to run a few test to see what's going on.
And yes you could posibly run with your buddy, 23rwhp isn't that big a deal. Your car could weigh less than your buddies.
O yeah, that cam alone should make the power you made or pretty close to it.