When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I love a good healthy debate. I only bring up the DIY shroud modification because A- who wants to spend money when they dont have to B- usually to get a system with the shroud pre-cut is usually at least $400-$500 brand new and C- the radiator scoop will usually work well with just about any type aftermarket intake.
Thats a great mod if you are gonna keep the stock intake. And the only expense is another panel filter. Instead of a K&N I would probably go with a Blackwing panel filter.
I have this Honker knockoff I bought for my car but will not fit due to oil cooler. It is a true cold air intake, with new filter and a power duct and couplings. You can save your stock shroud and reinstall and sell this when you get rid of your car. Asking $250 shipped. Let me know if interested.
[IMG][/IMG]
Waddisme.... If my memory serves, that looks like the MTI True Ram Air System. I bought one a few years ago and currently Im using the modifies scoop part for my updated system. Its a pretty good system as is.
Actually, that is what it is. I used the scoop without the shroud for the 800 mi breakin period for my motor. I wish it would have fit, but I needed an oil cooler for road racing. It is a good deal for someone.
I dont know if MTI stiil sells that pert or if they are still in business but it is a good system especially with a Blackwing panel filter. And at that price is a baigain compared to other intakes. And its rare. I havent seen any other system like that up so far. But I can say from first hand experience its a very good system.
I would think that the license plate mod would be more effective ...front end feeder as opposed to bottom feeder, especially if you have some sort of sealed setup and definetly better than no ram air setup.
Last edited by DARRYLZO6; Oct 12, 2009 at 03:40 PM.
If you're going with the twin cone intake, I suggest you also think about cold intake fog light screens (older C5s had a closed housing). The openings on each side will channel air directly to the cone filters. That'll make it more of a cold air intake.
Thats true. But if you have a sealed system you keep the dirt to a minimum. Its a trade-off. Occasionally engine bays get dirty/dusty and sometime you have to tidyem up a bit. On the other hand, I love the intake noise, added horsies, and a cooler engine bay!!
If you need to cut the shroud on the Honker and Vortex, the air that feeds them must flow right next to the radiator. How is that air as cool as what feeds the Vararam, especially at idle when intake air is moving slowly? I have neither, I run a Blackwing with cutouts in the foglight shrouds. Just wondering if I'm missing something here. Can anyone explain?
Ed
I dont know how everyone elses Vette runs but I have a Blackwing intake, Vararam power duct with a scooped radiator shroud and a 160 thermostat and even at idle i never run over 190 degrees. So I have no complaints. I know that depending on the modifications on each car, the temps can vary. For instance, if youre running a hotter cam , aftermarket intake manifold, headers, cats, (or no cats) and the stock cooling system , I know guys with similar setups that are running at least 235degrees and up. I also removed a few inches of the hood seal at the bottom drivers side below the windsheild to help vent the warm engine air. So far everything seems to be ok.