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From: Should this thoughtful, valuable contribution meet with no acknowledgement or 'thanks' this post----
Headers installed, now got 'check engine' in display
I was under the impression this would not happen with the tune I got when the Dynatech LTs were installed a couple weeks ago. Anyone have this before? Haven't checked for codes yet, but when the job was done he said they would program out the missing rear O2 sensors...maybe he forgot? Comments please. I'm sure he would take care of it, but it's a 120 mile round trip that I would love to avoid.
Chances are you have a slow switching code for the front O2's. This is common as the headers don't hold as much heat and therefore don't warm up the front O2's enough. This is very common w/ all headers.
The LG headers I have call for the rear O2's to be moved to the front as they have more robust warming circuits. Even with this, I still got the codes for the front O2's slow switching. Finally I had ECS turn that code off when I had my tune done.
Best to write down the code #/#'s and get back w the tuner/installer. Sooner the better. Could become worse of a problem, if left unchecked in this condition. Such as hot/burnt wires, loose this that or the other. Good luck. The price & time we pay for speed!
I was under the impression this would not happen with the tune I got when the Dynatech LTs were installed a couple weeks ago. Anyone have this before? Haven't checked for codes yet, but when the job was done he said they would program out the missing rear O2 sensors...maybe he forgot? Comments please. I'm sure he would take care of it, but it's a 120 mile round trip that I would love to avoid.
Check the codes and if you can get the car in the air and make sure everything is nice and tight. Headers are subject to heat and vibration and a clamp could have come loose.
First thing to do is pull your codes and then post them here. I'm sure you'll get plenty of useful help once that's done.
To enter the Diagnostic Display function perform the following steps in order:
1. Turn ON the ignition switch, engine OFF.
2. Press the RESET button to acknowledge any warning messages present.
3. Press the OPTIONS button on the Driver Information Center (DIC) and hold.
4. While holding the OPTIONS button press the FUEL button 4 times within a 10 second period.
5. System will first enter automatic display mode followed by the manual display mode.
The automatic display feature allow you to read each module DTC display function in an automatic display sequence. Each system module DTC will be displayed for 3 seconds followed by a 1 second pause before the next DTC is displayed in an automatic sequence. If no DTC information is sent to the IPC from the system currently displayed on the IPC, the IPC will display NO CODES for that system. At any time during the automatic display function, the manual display feature can be activated by pressing any button on the DIC except the E/M 5 button. The E/M 5 button is used to completely exit the DIAGNOSTICS mode at any time. If there is a communications problem between any system, the IPC will display NO COMM when the IPC is trying to communicate with that system. When all DTCs have been displayed for all systems, the IPC will display NO MORE CODES for 2 seconds then will enter the manual display mode, waiting for manual mode operation.
The manual display feature allows you to manually select each module DTC display function. The manual mode will automatically be entered after the automatic DTC display sequence is complete, or can be entered at any time during the automatic mode by pressing any button on the DIC except the E/M 5 (E/M 5 button is used to exit the DIAGNOSTIC mode at any time). When the manual mode is selected, the IPC will display the MANUAL DIAGNOSTICS mode message for 2 seconds, or until any button on the DIC except the E/M 5 is pressed. After the MANUAL DIAGNOSTICS mode message is displayed, the IPC will display the first system abbreviation and quantity of codes stored for that system, then the IPC will wait for further instructions. The buttons on the DIC provide the following functions when operating the on-board diagnostic feature in the manual mode:
DIC Button Function
FUEL 1 Previous DTC
GAGES 2 Next DTC
TRIP 3 Previous System
OPTIONS 4 Next System
E/M 5 Exit Diagnostics
RESET Clear DTCs
Chances are you have a slow switching code for the front O2's. This is common as the headers don't hold as much heat and therefore don't warm up the front O2's enough. This is very common w/ all headers.
The LG headers I have call for the rear O2's to be moved to the front as they have more robust warming circuits. Even with this, I still got the codes for the front O2's slow switching. Finally I had ECS turn that code off when I had my tune done.
Pretty common, Next to Column Lock and oil pressure sending unit problems. o2 sensor problems with headers installed comes in 3rd place..
I had the same thing happen. I had headers installed and a tune done on Friday. Drove 4 hours back home (bad wreck) with no issues at all. Got up Saturday morning and within 5 minutes of the car starting I had a check engine light. Took a two hour round trip and the light stayed on the whole time, but car ran fine. Pulled the codes and had nothing current except a TPMS that I knew was not working. Beyond that nothing. Went out this am and started in the garage and the light did not come on, left car running only a couple minutes and light stayed off. Not sure what is going on, but will be making a return trip to the tunner on Sat to try and figure it out.
From: Should this thoughtful, valuable contribution meet with no acknowledgement or 'thanks' this post----
Originally Posted by Mrchips
I had the same thing happen. I had headers installed and a tune done on Friday. Drove 4 hours back home (bad wreck) with no issues at all. Got up Saturday morning and within 5 minutes of the car starting I had a check engine light. Took a two hour round trip and the light stayed on the whole time, but car ran fine. Pulled the codes and had nothing current except a TPMS that I knew was not working. Beyond that nothing. Went out this am and started in the garage and the light did not come on, left car running only a couple minutes and light stayed off. Not sure what is going on, but will be making a return trip to the tunner on Sat to try and figure it out.
Good luck to you,
Brett
Interesting, I have company...LOL. I will get to the codes tomorrow AM...will report back if any. Mine was fine also for several days, then on the coldest day this week it came on at start up and hasn't disappeared....will call the shop soon. Mine's a 97, what year is yours?
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You guys will have a 410 & 420 code, it didn't come on when you left the shop because it takes two drive cycles to set the light. That is a header install "101", the shop should not have let you leave like that, but mistakes do happen.
From: Should this thoughtful, valuable contribution meet with no acknowledgement or 'thanks' this post----
Man, I need to go in and clear some codes once in a while! There was a lot of old crap in that history. Anyway, I found just one that relates: In the PCM I have a PO135H which is a heated O2 sensor...heater circuit bank 1 sensor 1-B. I have an appointment for tomorrow to see what is wrong with the tune....sounds very minor to me at this time. I put the car on the lift and checked over everything...all I can say is a very neat job, no loose fasteners, clamps, and no wires in contact as far as I could see. Spacing is perfect, everything is aligned beautifully. There are some clamp bolts sticking down a little too far for my liking and I am going to have some of the threads cutoff for safety sake. Should I take my rear 02 sensors with me? I'm thinking about the comment that they have a unique sensitivity...maybe they should be substituted?
Chances are you have a slow switching code for the front O2's. This is common as the headers don't hold as much heat and therefore don't warm up the front O2's enough. This is very common w/ all headers.
The LG headers I have call for the rear O2's to be moved to the front as they have more robust warming circuits. Even with this, I still got the codes for the front O2's slow switching. Finally I had ECS turn that code off when I had my tune done.
Depending on what codes you are getting, my Dynatech longtubes would throw a code only on really cold days. I forgot what the code was but it showed up in the Service Manual as one of the O2 sensors not warming up quick enough. I was told that because they are located further downstream on the headers they don't get hot quick enough and that sometimes a code can be thrown. Nothing is wrong with the sensor, it is just being rushed to do it's job because of emmision reasons. I was also told by my tuner that it can be programmed around it. I just reset the codes whenever it happens and ignore it. Mine is stored during the winter months so it's not much of a concern. I never see this during warmer months.
Definitely post your DTC because it could be something different.
Last edited by MG RED 99; Oct 13, 2009 at 05:47 PM.
From: Should this thoughtful, valuable contribution meet with no acknowledgement or 'thanks' this post----
[QUOTE=Mark C5;1571795695]First thing to do is pull your codes and then post them here. I'm sure you'll get plenty of useful help once that's done.
To enter the Diagnostic Display function perform the following steps in order:
Mark, thanks for the info...I printed it out and took it with me to the cockpit, even though I have it saved somewhere....you saved me a laborious hunt!
From: Should this thoughtful, valuable contribution meet with no acknowledgement or 'thanks' this post----
Originally Posted by MG RED 99
Depending on what codes you are getting, my Dynatech longtubes would throw a code only on really cold days. I forgot what the code was but it showed up in the Service Manual as one of the O2 sensors not warming up quick enough. I was told that because they are located further downstream on the headers that sometimes a code can be thrown. Nothing is wrong with the sensor, it is just being rushed to do it's job because of emmision reasons. I was also told by my tuner that it can be programmed around it. I just reset the codes whenever it happens and ignore it. Mine is stored during the winter months so it's not much of a concern. I never see this during warmer months.
Definitely post your DTC because it could be something different.
thanks, I posted it a couple minutes before your came on. I tend to agree with you; the problem showed up on a cold start and has stayed. I think I drove trouble-free about 200 miles in several starts prior to that.
From: Should this thoughtful, valuable contribution meet with no acknowledgement or 'thanks' this post----
Almost forgot to report back. Took about 15 minutes to adjust the computer to ignore the codes. Funny thing, on the way to the shop the damn idiot light went away! But when I got to the shop I had my list of codes with me, and the tech verified the 02 sensor issue, just as we thought in the replies here....thanks guys for the insights...this car never ceases to mystify me! Oh, 120 mile roundtrip was a blast with the headers...I can't stop hitting the gas to hear the beast it has become! Do you guys do that?