I've researched until my brain hurt. Now it's time to just throw out the NOOB questions and try and get some help.

Basically, I'm not new to modding (I'm 24, been into this since I could drive), but let's face it, experience is how details/specifics are learned. I've never gone as big as I'm looking to go. I may not even have the questions below that your experience says I should have asked. So, please, throw out as much information as you can:

The Goal:
My goals have always been a 10-second street driven car. I may be getting deployed in July '10. If I do, when I return I will get my C5 and begin the journey.

The Givens:
1> ProCharged
2> 1/4-ET must be acheivable on DOT tires (I want to know that what I run on the strip is close to how it performs on the street, I'm OCD like that).

The Questions:
1> The first is kind of trivial but still has me stuck because it requires experience to answer. Would it cost less in the long run to start with a C5 Z06, or will there be equal amounts of replaced parts if I would go with a much cheaper base C5?

2> What is the ideal compression ratio on a C5 for a ProCharged motor? Ideal cam specs? I read a whole article on cams and still need some clarification.

3> What will break, what won't? I know, sounds like a NOOB question, but other than the obvious internals, what can the drivetrain handle? What can the axles handle? Driveshaft? etc.

4> Engine. What can the head handle? Which would be better -- replace the pistons, rods, springs, valves, retainers, etc, etc, or get a short block and start from scratch?

5> Does the bottom end need to be built for the power I'm looking at?


Basically, these questions can be summed up as: What am I looking at as far as necessary, inherent upgrades? What can remain stock? What haven't I addressed?

I ask because I really would like to know how realistic my goals are.

Thanks,
Tom

 

Whats kind of cash are you looking to spend?

1.) The biggest difference in C5/C5Z is the LS1/6 motors. The biggest difference in the LS1/6 motors is the heads and cam - yes there are other differences, MN12 trans rather than MN6 etc. But if you can score a C5 coupe for a great price these days so you could probably remedy these problems for less than the cost of the C5Z if you plan to mod anyway (And yet I still chose the Z, IMO the body style just looks that much better)

As for your 10sec goal, get an A&A kit for around $5000, a new clutch for $500-$1200, a PROFESSIONAL tune for around $700, and you'll be awfully close to, or in the 10's assuming you get some traction in the rear; and have the driver mod.

I would also get a good set of 1 7/8 KOOKS, LGM, or ARH, Longtubes/X-pipe.

 

I don't want the cost of the car to be anymore than around 22-23K. I've found both the C5Z and C5 in that price range, but obviously a regular C5 is much more easily found and I've found those as cheap as 15,999, which means a lot more modding money. When I get back I will be able to put a substantial down payment, if not pay it off completely. Then I would like to look my budget over, and possibly take out a loan for the mods in the amount I can afford comfortably. I'm hoping to be able to do around $20K worth of work all at once with that loan.

My initial goal is 10's, then build for power just for bragging rights.

As far as traction goes. I was looking at getting the rear fender flares they make for the C5 and sticking some nice big (325 or larger) MT Street Radials under there.

A lot of my concern comes from when I had my FWD Cobalt SS/Supercharged. Broken axles were common once you were modded -- broke mine at only 260whp! And so that experience has prompted me to find out what can this car handle stock -- when do they start to break? And what tends to break?

 

In my opinion, if you are going for a 10 second car, it isn't going to matter whether you start with a C5Z or a C5. Take the money saved by getting a regular C5 and use it to get quality parts.

 

I give a second on knewblewkorvettes suggestion on the supercharger. Pricey, but a great power maker without having to get into the inside of your motor. A good kit and install is extremely dependable, retains all your driveability and if you can keep your foot off the go pedal fuel mileage remains good. I went this route with an intercooled procharger on a previous ride and I never, not once, regretted it. Regarding your goal of 400 rwhp if my math is correct you would need to be shooting for about 460 to 470 hp at the crank. Good luck with whatever you choose!

 

This thread is 10 years old and OP sold his car in 2013. I don't think he's worried about it anymore.