When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm thinking about going with some Pilots in the rear in the size 345/30-19. The recommended rim width is 12-13.5 inches.
I'd like to go with a 13" wide 547, but I undertand that 12" might be the max that HRE offers?
Would there be other issues with a 13" wide rim, like hitting the A-arms when the suspension is fully extended? I ask because my current 11" Mallets almost hit the upper A-arm when on a lift. I figured that a 19" tall rim would allow some additional clearance here.
Also, if the additonal inch is all on the inside, will the 'mini tub' be sufficient?
Anyway, just wondering if anyone has traveled down this road yet and if I'd be better off just stuffing those 345's onto 12 inch rims, much like I'm currently stuffing 325's on 11 inch rims.
I do not know about the HRE wheels but I think the problem is the same no matter which wheel brand you choose. I have Fikse ARO's 18*12 with a 335/30 tires in the rear. The tire/wheel is exactly in line with the fender so they do not stick out, and .... the tire rub alot against the fender inner skirt. You will have to tub the wheel wells to be able to use 12" wheels. Where is no problem with the a-arm using 12" wheels but I do not know about 13". I'm sure forum members with 13" wheel experience will chime in.
HRE will not recommend any wider than a 12" wide rim if you want them to sit perfectly under the fender. If you go 12.5", then you will be hanging out of the wheelwell 1/4" - 1/2".
John from CCW told me that 9.5" is the largest backspacing he can go on rims even if the car is tubbed. My 18x11s with 8.5" backspacing poopie 100% flush and dont stick out whatsoever. So if you add one inch of width to the rim on the back and go with an 9.5" backspacing, you would have the wheels perfectly under the fender. If you go any wider than the extra inch in width over the 11s, you would have to add it on the outside of the rim, meaning it woudl stick out that much more past the fender.
A little over a year ago, the widest inner wheel HRE sold in the 19" diameter was 10". The widest outer wheel you run and keep inside the wheelwell was 2". I don't know if this is true any longer. I have HRE 546 19x12's that I upgraded from 19x10.5s. I couldn't go any wider towards the *inside* of the car. This is with the stock center-sections. They did tell me that if I wanted to buy new centers, that they could setup another set of centers where the lug nut seats were milled about 1/4" less deep and shave that off the back of the wheel mount so that the outer wheel could be increased another 1/4" to keep the same alignment witht he wheelwell. All of that money for the extra 1/4" wasn't really worth it, though. You couldn't really shave that much more off and keep the flush-mounted wheel cap.
The 12" limitation isn't the max size of the wheel they offer, it's just roughly the max size you can go towards the inside of the car and keep the outer wheel aligned with the wheelwell. (Or it was a year ago)
Anyway, it would be possible to go wider than 12" if one of the following were true: 1) They now make an inner wheel wider than 10" (If so, let me know. I'd like to have mine widened to 13" or so.) 2) You're ordering from scratch and work around the offsets of the center section. 3) You're more forgiving of wheel alignment with the wheelwell.
seanr brings up another good point about the rear a-arms. If you went with a wider inner wheel, you would definitely need to look into something to limit the travel of the wheel. Another inch of wheel on the inside and you could definitely expect the wheel to contact the a-arm at full extension.
I have 12" CCWs w/ 345s on the rear. The 12" wheel w/ 9-3/8" back spacing allows the tire to stick out past the fender by a 1/2". However, your question concerns the rear spacing. The frame will interfere with the clearance if you go back further under the car. Call John at CCW and talk with him. (I did not like the tire sticking out past the fender so I bought a custom set of rear quarter panels that are 3/4" wider than stock.)
LPE makes a kit for $700 that allows 345s. from what i understand, itmoves the shocks in a little and puts travel limters on them so that when the suspension flexs it wont hit anything. :yesnod: at least that was the way it was explained to me.
i have yet to find it on their web site but have seen it in their catalog
Sounds like 12.5" would be better than attempting to go with 13".
vette-crazy, how much was the custom rear quarter panels that stick out another 3/4", if you don't mind me asking?
Mongoos, I'll have to look into the LPE option. I wonder how they move the shock mount inwards on the lower A-arm?
If that extra 0.5" are to be towards the outside, would that negatively affect the load on the wheel bearings to any great extent?
Sounds like the LPE option would be better in that the wheels would be 'centered' around the wheel bearings, vs everything being towards the outside (going past 12"), even though wider fenders would cover it.
Talk to RG in Dallas. I ordered the same set up. 13' HRE 541s with Pilot sports sized at 345/30/19. You do need to tub. Lingenfelter does supply a kit but you will also need to "rework" your rear shock mounts. Lingenfelter also does a bracket for that. They do require your rear shock so they can fabricate the new bracket though. Total cost is around $1300.00 for the kit and shock brackets.
I did not do the install but I am sure Lingenfelter would answer any questions. :cheers: