Tomorrow AM I'll be removing the cradle, transaxle, and torque tube as one unit. I have a 2 Post lift and high rise tranny lift.

My question is where is the center of balance to place the lift so it doesn't tip? Has anyone done it this way?

Thanks,

Sarge

 

http://www.cajundude.com/c5techhome.htm
try this sight

 

I assume your lift has 4 points of contact? There's 4 jacking points under the sides, marked by a metal crosspiece that has triangular ends. One is directly under the side rearviews, and the other is under the gas door, I believe.

 

Got this info from DC crew he gets the credit Here's how you do it:

Clutch Pressure Plate and Clutch Driven Plate (from the 2001 Technical Service manual)

Tools Required
J 38836 Pilot Bushing Installer/Clutch Alignment Arbor
Removal Procedure

Caution: Refer to Battery Disconnect in Service Precautions.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
Remove the catalytic converter.

{Remove the driveline support assembly with the transaxle.}

** this is the fun part. Instructions below in yellow

Remove the engine flywheel inspection cover retaining bolts.
Remove the engine flywheel inspection cover from the engine flywheel housing.

Loosen the visible clutch pressure plate bolts.
Rotate the engine flywheel.
Repeat steps 7 and 8 until all the bolts have been loosened.
Remove the visible clutch pressure plate bolts.
Rotate the engine flywheel.
Repeat steps 10 and 11 until all the bolts have been removed.
Remove the clutch pressure plate bolts from the flywheel.
Remove the clutch pressure plate and the clutch driven plate.
Installation Procedure

Important: When the clutch pressure plate requires replacement; the engine flywheel must also be replaced along with the clutch pressure plate as an assembly.


Inspect the clutch pressure plate and the clutch driven plate for wear or damage. Repair or replace as necessary.
Inspect the engine flywheel.
Adjust the clutch pressure plate, if necessary.
Install the clutch driven plate and clutch pressure plate to the engine flywheel.
Install the visible clutch pressure plate bolts finger-tight.
Rotate the engine flywheel.
Repeat steps 5 and 6 until all the bolts are installed finger-tight.
Using the J 38836, align the clutch driven plate to the pilot bearing. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.


Tighten the clutch pressure plate bolts in the sequence shown, starting with the number one and following in numerical order.
Tighten the clutch pressure plate bolts in sequence and evenly over 3 increments with the fourth increment to 70 Nm (52 ft. lbs.).

Install the engine flywheel inspection cover.
Install the engine flywheel inspection cover retaining bolts.
Tighten the engine flywheel inspection cover retaining bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
Install the driveline support assembly and the transaxle.
Install the catalytic converter.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Tighten the negative battery cable bolt to 15 Nm (11 ft. lbs.).
Program the transmitters.
Lower the vehicle.


Transaxle/torque tube assembly Removal

Tools Required
J 42055 Transmission Support Fixture
J 42371 Hydraulic Clutch Line Separator
Removal Procedure

Notice: When tilting down the rear of the driveline, observe the clearance between the rear of the engine and the composite dash panel. Do not allow the engine to rest unsupported against the composite dash panel, or vehicle damage may result.

Notice: When lowering and removing the rear of the driveline, observe the clearance between the rear of the transaxle assembly and the underbody to prevent damage.

Notice: When tilting down the rear of the driveline, insert a putty knife or similar tool between the shift control bracket on the driveline support assembly and the brake pipe retainer on the driveline tunnel wall to prevent damage.

Caution: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the console.
Carefully pry off the shift control **** button.
Pry the shift control **** retainer out of the slots and remove the retainer.

Unscrew the shift control ****.

Grasp the sides of the shift control boot and apply light pressure in toward the shift control lever to begin to release the shift boot retaining tabs from the IP accessory trim plate.
Using light pressure, continue to release the remaining boot retaining tabs.

Lift the boot away from the trim plate and remove the boot.
Remove the IP accessory trim plate.

Remove the shift control closeout boot retaining nuts.
Remove the shift control closeout boot.
Remove the shift control assembly.
Remove the IP lower insulator panel - LH.

Remove the clutch master cylinder pushrod retainer.
Disconnect the clutch master cylinder pushrod from the clutch pedal.

Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
Remove the clutch actuator cylinder hose from the hose retaining clip (at the rear of the engine).

Using the J 42311, depress the white circular release ring on the actuator cylinder hose and simultaneously pull lightly on the master cylinder hose to disconnect.
Protect both hose coupling ends from dirt and damage.

Remove the rear tire and wheel assemblies.
Remove the catalytic converter.
Tie off the muffler assemblies to the underbody to support out of the way.
Remove the driveline tunnel closeout panel.

Remove the rear transverse spring.
Support the lower control arm with a straight jack.
Disconnect the outer tie rod end from the suspension knuckle.
Remove the shock absorber lower mounting bolt.
Disconnect the lower ball joint from the suspension knuckle.
Remove the straight jack from the control arm.
Repeat steps 25 through 29 for the other side of the vehicle.

Assemble the J 42055.
Install the J 42055 to a transmission jack.
Position and firmly secure the J 42055 with the transmission jack to the transmission.

Disconnect the wiring harness and brake pipe clip retainers from the rear suspension crossmember.
Remove the differential to transmission lower nut. (Removing the nut at this time will aid in separating the differential from the transmission after the driveline has been removed from the vehicle.)
Remove the transaxle mount to rear crossmember nuts.

Position a transmission jack under the rear suspension crossmember and firmly secure the crossmember to the jack.
Using ONLY HAND TOOLS, remove the rear suspension crossmember retaining nuts.


With the aid of an assistant, slowly lower the rear suspension crossmember away from the vehicle frame rails and remove the crossmember.

Remove the transaxle mount bracket to differential bolts.
Remove the transaxle mount with bracket. (Removing the transaxle mount will allow for greater stability on a workbench after the driveline is removed.)

Using a pry bar, CAREFULLY release the axle shafts from the differential.
Tie off the axle shafts (1) to the underbody to support out of the way. The muffler assembly pipes toward the rear offer a good location to help support the axle shafts (1).

Release the retainer (1) securing (and positioning) the wiring harness to the L-shaped brackets along the driveline support assembly, then slide the harness up out of the brackets and position out of the way.


SLOWLY lower the driveline approximately 5 cm (2 inch) , while simultaneously adjusting the angle of tilt, in order to access the electrical connectors.
Disconnect the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) electrical connector.

Disconnect the wiring harness retainer from the stud at the differential rear cover.
Disconnect the wiring harness retainer clip from the top of the differential.

Disconnect the backup lamp switch electrical connector.

Disconnect the reverse lockout solenoid electrical connector.

Disconnect the gear select (skip shift) solenoid electrical connector.

Disconnect the transmission fluid temperature sensor electrical connector, if equipped.

Insert a putty knife, or similar tool, between the edge of the shifter bracket on the side of the driveline support assembly and the brake pipe retainer on the wall of the driveline tunnel.

SLOWLY lower the driveline, while simultaneously adjusting the angle of tilt, and observe the relationship between the top rear of the differential and the lowest part of the rear compartment panel floor (the center storage compartment between the frame rails); the differential should not be lowered more than approximately EVEN with the specified body point of reference. (The engine positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) pipes which route along the rear of the engine intake manifold will likely contact the dash panel.)
Release the wiring harness from the harness retainer along the top of the transmission.
Check to be sure that the wiring harness is free from the driveline being removed.

Using a block of wood to protect the engine oil pan, place a straight jack under the rear of the engine oil pan to support the engine from stressing the composite dash panel.
Remove the five driveline support assembly to engine flywheel housing bolts.
Carefully bend the wiring harness bracket away from the driveline toward the driveline tunnel wall in order to make a clear removal path for the driveline. Important: The aid of an assistant will be necessary for the remaining steps.

Have an assistant insert a flat bladed screwdriver, or similar tool, between the edge of the driveline support assembly and the engine flywheel housing, then begin to pry the driveline loose from the engine.

Have an assistant guide the front of the driveline during the removal of the driveline from the vehicle.
SLOWLY lower the driveline, while simultaneously adjusting the angle of tilt and pulling the driveline away from the engine UNTIL the propeller input shaft at the front of the driveline support assembly just clears the engine flywheel housing.
SLOWLY lower the driveline completely out of the vehicle.

 

I'm not talking about the cars center of balance. I need to know the center point of the cradle, tranny, Diff, and torque tube.

 

This has you remove each section by itself. Not as a whole unit.

 

And you don't have to completely remove the drive train. Just lower it about 4-5" and slide it back until you have clearance to work on the clutch.

 

I just dropped mine last week and I couldn't tell you where the center of gravity is. I put the trans jack pretty much square under the rear cradle. Then supported the torque tube with a jack stand on a small dolly. That worked so far.

 

Clutch install complete.

Anybody got a part number for those little clips that hold down the break lines in the back on the cradle? I think I broke every damn one of them. LOL

Learned a lot. Made some custom tools. Team of 3 clutch virgins had the old clutch out in 3 hours. 4 hours to put the new Monster 3.5 in. I did the prep work lasnight. Removing headers, X-pipe, cat-backs, Shifter.

I still have to put exhaust back on, Brakes, Shifter, Master cylinder, and mount Speed bleeder.

Sarge

 

I need a couple of those too. We will probably have to ask Gene at GMPartsHouse.com. If he can't find them, they aren't available.

 

Retainer, Brake Pipe 10407022

 

Have 2 of these laying on my desk next to my keyboard as I type.......

You won't like the price.....