C5 Cooling Issues
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 243
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Well, thanks for all the inputs. I'll strip it down to the water pump, and replace with a new one. I'll make sure to install a new themostat (170 degrees) and housing. I've seen a step by step DIY layout with pictures, and take my time to do it correctly. I don't think my cooling system has been grosley neglected, the car runs fine and everything works on it except it does not blow cold air from the A/C. The Dewitt Radiator really is "attractive" to me, in that if I'm going to go through all that, how could it hurt to add that upgrade. $620 would be worth it to me, to rid myself of this condition. Could it actually run to cool? I've read that the coolant temp should be around 195 as a rule, to burn off impurities and any water condensation in it. Thoughts?
I do have one big question though. You say "you've read" that the cooling system must around 195? Welll, how can a sealed cooling system that is full already full of coolant (liquid) "burn off impurities and any water condensation in it"? That doesn't even make sense.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 243
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Has the cooling system on this car been badly neglected? What is the apparent condition of the coolant? Do you get random "Low Coolant" warning messages on the DIC and have to add coolant periodically or does this message only happen after a "boilover" or two?
A water pump impeller being damaged or destroyed is extremely rare and should not be high on your list of suspects. It is grasping for straws. Besides, I thought your first move was going to be replacement of the cap.
Do this: have, or do, a cooling system pressure check. Have, or do, a pressure cap test. If not OK, replace. If pressure test is OK, drain, flush, and refill the system with fresh Dex-Cool and water (I use distilled .65 to .75 per gallon at the store). If cooling system pressure test is NOT OK, repair/replace the source of the leak. Remember: if you want to replace the thermostat because you suspect it being bad, be prepared to spend anywhere from $45 to $75 to replace it. If you DO replace the pump with the newer style, that expensive new thermostat you bought will NOT work on the newer pumps.
A water pump impeller being damaged or destroyed is extremely rare and should not be high on your list of suspects. It is grasping for straws. Besides, I thought your first move was going to be replacement of the cap.
Do this: have, or do, a cooling system pressure check. Have, or do, a pressure cap test. If not OK, replace. If pressure test is OK, drain, flush, and refill the system with fresh Dex-Cool and water (I use distilled .65 to .75 per gallon at the store). If cooling system pressure test is NOT OK, repair/replace the source of the leak. Remember: if you want to replace the thermostat because you suspect it being bad, be prepared to spend anywhere from $45 to $75 to replace it. If you DO replace the pump with the newer style, that expensive new thermostat you bought will NOT work on the newer pumps.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 22,185
Likes: 65
From: NJ
Actually the main cause for this is cavitation. Air in the cooling system and impurities cause this to happen. Its very unlikely but it can not be ruled out.
Masking a cooling issue by throwing "hi-po" parts at it is a recipe for heartache down the line.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Has the cooling system on this car been badly neglected? What is the apparent condition of the coolant? Do you get random "Low Coolant" warning messages on the DIC and have to add coolant periodically or does this message only happen after a "boilover" or two?
A water pump impeller being damaged or destroyed is extremely rare and should not be high on your list of suspects. It is grasping for straws. Besides, I thought your first move was going to be replacement of the cap.
Do this: have, or do, a cooling system pressure check. Have, or do, a pressure cap test. If not OK, replace. If pressure test is OK, drain, flush, and refill the system with fresh Dex-Cool and water (I use distilled .65 to .75 per gallon at the store). If cooling system pressure test is NOT OK, repair/replace the source of the leak. Remember: if you want to replace the thermostat because you suspect it being bad, be prepared to spend anywhere from $45 to $75 to replace it. If you DO replace the pump with the newer style, that expensive new thermostat you bought will NOT work on the newer pumps.
A water pump impeller being damaged or destroyed is extremely rare and should not be high on your list of suspects. It is grasping for straws. Besides, I thought your first move was going to be replacement of the cap.
Do this: have, or do, a cooling system pressure check. Have, or do, a pressure cap test. If not OK, replace. If pressure test is OK, drain, flush, and refill the system with fresh Dex-Cool and water (I use distilled .65 to .75 per gallon at the store). If cooling system pressure test is NOT OK, repair/replace the source of the leak. Remember: if you want to replace the thermostat because you suspect it being bad, be prepared to spend anywhere from $45 to $75 to replace it. If you DO replace the pump with the newer style, that expensive new thermostat you bought will NOT work on the newer pumps.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 243
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
OK, my internet capabilities on this Navy Destroyer leave much to be disiered. Yes, I will start at the lowest possibility, and replace the coolant tank cap first. I don't think the cooling system has be grossley neglected, I had a new, stock radiator installed in the car Aug 2009. My responses to these inputs seem sporadic, because I am at the mercy of our SATCOM dropping in and out. I understand that if I upgrade to the new style water pump, I must have the matching thermostat. I understand what you are trying to say with these posts, and appreciate your inputs. I thank you for your suggestions.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Lone Star,
My remarks about reading that the car's cooling system should run around 195 degrees was so impurities and condesation could burn off, was meant in the oil, not the coolant. Water condensation in the oil, and that if the car runs to cool, it won't evaporate moisture. Is there any validity to that, that if it runs too cool, impurities and moisture in the OIL will not burn off?
My remarks about reading that the car's cooling system should run around 195 degrees was so impurities and condesation could burn off, was meant in the oil, not the coolant. Water condensation in the oil, and that if the car runs to cool, it won't evaporate moisture. Is there any validity to that, that if it runs too cool, impurities and moisture in the OIL will not burn off?
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 243
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Lone Star,
My remarks about reading that the car's cooling system should run around 195 degrees was so impurities and condesation could burn off, was meant in the oil, not the coolant. Water condensation in the oil, and that if the car runs to cool, it won't evaporate moisture. Is there any validity to that, that if it runs too cool, impurities and moisture in the OIL will not burn off?
My remarks about reading that the car's cooling system should run around 195 degrees was so impurities and condesation could burn off, was meant in the oil, not the coolant. Water condensation in the oil, and that if the car runs to cool, it won't evaporate moisture. Is there any validity to that, that if it runs too cool, impurities and moisture in the OIL will not burn off?
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