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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 11:34 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Sampson102
Well, thanks for all the inputs. I'll strip it down to the water pump, and replace with a new one. I'll make sure to install a new themostat (170 degrees) and housing. I've seen a step by step DIY layout with pictures, and take my time to do it correctly. I don't think my cooling system has been grosley neglected, the car runs fine and everything works on it except it does not blow cold air from the A/C. The Dewitt Radiator really is "attractive" to me, in that if I'm going to go through all that, how could it hurt to add that upgrade. $620 would be worth it to me, to rid myself of this condition. Could it actually run to cool? I've read that the coolant temp should be around 195 as a rule, to burn off impurities and any water condensation in it. Thoughts?
The DeWitts will not make you car run "too cool".

I do have one big question though. You say "you've read" that the cooling system must around 195? Welll, how can a sealed cooling system that is full already full of coolant (liquid) "burn off impurities and any water condensation in it"? That doesn't even make sense.
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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 11:36 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by seattle
Be sure you check the simple stuff first. These cars collect a lot of debris in front of the radiator way up high. I get under the car once a year and pull out a lot of leaves etc. Maybe you'll be lucky and that is all it is.
Posts #2 and #5.
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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 11:40 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC
Has the cooling system on this car been badly neglected? What is the apparent condition of the coolant? Do you get random "Low Coolant" warning messages on the DIC and have to add coolant periodically or does this message only happen after a "boilover" or two?

A water pump impeller being damaged or destroyed is extremely rare and should not be high on your list of suspects. It is grasping for straws. Besides, I thought your first move was going to be replacement of the cap.

Do this: have, or do, a cooling system pressure check. Have, or do, a pressure cap test. If not OK, replace. If pressure test is OK, drain, flush, and refill the system with fresh Dex-Cool and water (I use distilled .65 to .75 per gallon at the store). If cooling system pressure test is NOT OK, repair/replace the source of the leak. Remember: if you want to replace the thermostat because you suspect it being bad, be prepared to spend anywhere from $45 to $75 to replace it. If you DO replace the pump with the newer style, that expensive new thermostat you bought will NOT work on the newer pumps.
No, the cooling system has not been neglected. I had a pressure check done, and a stock new radiator was intalled in Aug 2009. The DIC does not report low coolant, because I watch the coolant level closely. Yes, I will start with the easiest possible, the Tank Cap, and see if that works (it could possibly be that simple, right?) If I upgrade to the newer style pump, I understand I must have the correct therostat to match it. I appreciate your inputs, and am taking them onboard. My reponses are fragmented because I am on a navy Destroyer, and the Internet drops in and out of SATCOM. I understand what you are saying. I'm not afraid to spend a few bucks to fix this once and for all, but I don't want to "Throw parts at it" as you put it, so I'm just taking everything in. I am listening to your well thought responses, and appreciate.
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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 11:45 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Sampson102
Would that mean there are remnents/pieces of the impeller in the engine block? Or does it disolve. I guess my first move is to take off the water pump and inspect it. Thanks for you input.

Actually the main cause for this is cavitation. Air in the cooling system and impurities cause this to happen. Its very unlikely but it can not be ruled out.

Masking a cooling issue by throwing "hi-po" parts at it is a recipe for heartache down the line.
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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 11:56 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC
Has the cooling system on this car been badly neglected? What is the apparent condition of the coolant? Do you get random "Low Coolant" warning messages on the DIC and have to add coolant periodically or does this message only happen after a "boilover" or two?

A water pump impeller being damaged or destroyed is extremely rare and should not be high on your list of suspects. It is grasping for straws. Besides, I thought your first move was going to be replacement of the cap.

Do this: have, or do, a cooling system pressure check. Have, or do, a pressure cap test. If not OK, replace. If pressure test is OK, drain, flush, and refill the system with fresh Dex-Cool and water (I use distilled .65 to .75 per gallon at the store). If cooling system pressure test is NOT OK, repair/replace the source of the leak. Remember: if you want to replace the thermostat because you suspect it being bad, be prepared to spend anywhere from $45 to $75 to replace it. If you DO replace the pump with the newer style, that expensive new thermostat you bought will NOT work on the newer pumps.
OK, my internet capabilities on this Navy Destroyer leave much to be disiered. Yes, I will start at the lowest possibility, and replace the coolant tank cap first. I don't think the cooling system has be grossley neglected, I had a new, stock radiator installed in the car Aug 2009. My responses to these inputs seem sporadic, because I am at the mercy of our SATCOM dropping in and out. I understand that if I upgrade to the new style water pump, I must have the matching thermostat. I understand what you are trying to say with these posts, and appreciate your inputs. I thank you for your suggestions.
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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 12:34 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Sampson102
OK, my internet capabilities on this Navy Destroyer leave much to be disiered. Yes, I will start at the lowest possibility, and replace the coolant tank cap first. I don't think the cooling system has be grossley neglected, I had a new, stock radiator installed in the car Aug 2009. My responses to these inputs seem sporadic, because I am at the mercy of our SATCOM dropping in and out. I understand that if I upgrade to the new style water pump, I must have the matching thermostat. I understand what you are trying to say with these posts, and appreciate your inputs. I thank you for your suggestions.
Good luck to you and give us a shout back with your results. Thanks for your service and you stay safe out there. I'm an ex-Anchor Clanker myself, though I spent all my time under the water, not on top. We had a name for anything that floated on the surface: "Target".
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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 01:42 AM
  #27  
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Lone Star,
My remarks about reading that the car's cooling system should run around 195 degrees was so impurities and condesation could burn off, was meant in the oil, not the coolant. Water condensation in the oil, and that if the car runs to cool, it won't evaporate moisture. Is there any validity to that, that if it runs too cool, impurities and moisture in the OIL will not burn off?
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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 10:48 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Sampson102
Lone Star,
My remarks about reading that the car's cooling system should run around 195 degrees was so impurities and condesation could burn off, was meant in the oil, not the coolant. Water condensation in the oil, and that if the car runs to cool, it won't evaporate moisture. Is there any validity to that, that if it runs too cool, impurities and moisture in the OIL will not burn off?
Yup, I would agree. "Too cool" is a bit of a relative term, but the basic premise is correct. It's the water (primarily condensation) that needs to be able to evaporate, but it can also do so at temps lower than 195* (cooling system temp) as well. It may just take a bit longer. It's the oil temp that's mainly doing the "burning off", but yes the cooling system temp contributes to the oil temps as well. Oil does approx 20-25% (ballpark) of the cooling duties of the typical engine.
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