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I am about to install the heads on my brothers LS1 and need help installing/torquing down the head bolts properly. I've read that they aren't the same as traditional small blocks, so I need to know what to do so I can do it right the first time? I've read that you torque them down to the specified torque and then you have to turn the bolt another certain amount of degrees to finish them off, how does this work?
What you've heard is correct. Fortunately, all of the details you need can be found on LS1howto.com. The head torquing specs/sequence is the same for an LS1 f-body.
I am about to install the heads on my brothers LS1 and need help installing/torquing down the head bolts properly. I've read that they aren't the same as traditional small blocks, so I need to know what to do so I can do it right the first time? I've read that you torque them down to the specified torque and then you have to turn the bolt another certain amount of degrees to finish them off, how does this work?
Check in to Stage8 head bolts with locking performance so it is finished and there is no readjustments.
Just go get a set of ARPs and follow their torque instructions and be done with it. Nobody said anthing to you about the fact that if you are using stock headbolts, you can't re-use them.
I had to replace a blown head gasket and went with the ARPs, dam glad I did. And if I choose to replace the heads or do any other work I can re-use them.
Just go get a set of ARPs and follow their torque instructions and be done with it. Nobody said anthing to you about the fact that if you are using stock headbolts, you can't re-use them.
...yeah...that's why I posted the service manual....
It's pretty clear in step #8, and even states "NEW" in capital letters....
...yeah...that's why I posted the service manual....
It's pretty clear in step #8, and even states "NEW" in capital letters....
Sorry missed it but I didn't read the entire thing as I am pretty familiar with the process.
Another place that guys seem to short cut is cleaning out the head bolt holes. They must be clean and dry. Do not use a tap or thread chaser to clean them. A very nice procedeure published on another thread is to take the stock rod bolts and a dremel tool with a thin cutting disk and cut some grooves length wise. then follow up with a thread file. run the modified bolt in and out a few times with some light grease on it. You can also grind two sides flat with a grinder. but make sure you clean the threads of grinding burs before you use it.
If there is coolant left in the bolt holes, the new bolts will hydro lock and give false tq readings or the coolant will expand and has been known to crack blocks.
Just go get a set of ARPs and follow their torque instructions and be done with it. Nobody said anthing to you about the fact that if you are using stock headbolts, you can't re-use them.
I had to replace a blown head gasket and went with the ARPs, dam glad I did. And if I choose to replace the heads or do any other work I can re-use them.
I knew that you can't reuse the head bolts, but I went and got the GM Head bolts again. I'm going to see if I can get a set of ARP's to replace the GM ones. Thanks everybody for the responses and links, very helpful.
Sorry missed it but I didn't read the entire thing as I am pretty familiar with the process.
Another place that guys seem to short cut is cleaning out the head bolt holes. They must be clean and dry. Do not use a tap or thread chaser to clean them. A very nice procedeure published on another thread is to take the stock rod bolts and a dremel tool with a thin cutting disk and cut some grooves length wise. then follow up with a thread file. run the modified bolt in and out a few times with some light grease on it. You can also grind two sides flat with a grinder. but make sure you clean the threads of grinding burs before you use it.
If there is coolant left in the bolt holes, the new bolts will hydro lock and give false tq readings or the coolant will expand and has been known to crack blocks.
You are absolutely correct!!! Clean out the holes especially from coolant BEFORE you put the new bolts in. Otherwise you'll be buying a new block.
I don't plan on taking off the heads any time soon after this. I did thoroughly clean out the bolt holes with compressed air, and wire brush, and pieces of twisted up paper towels to make sure everything was dry. I'm just waiting for the oil pump to get here tomorrow so that I can put everything back together and fire it up. I've also read the links and so far so good.