Same question here...
Recommendation for clutch
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,300
Likes: 115
From: Odessa FL
St. Jude Donor '10-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
Recommendation for clutch
My C5 is a 2000 coupe MN6. Stock except for Vararam power duct and KN dual filter intake and catch can. The plan is to do bolt on mods up to and including LT headers and Corsa exhaust, LS6 intake manifold, ported throttle body and ported 243 heads with upgraded valve train components, and a moderate cam. The goal is to hopefully produce about 400-425 RWHP and comparable RWTQ. Given all the preceding, I was planning a replacement clutch, master cylinder, slave cylinder, and remote bleeder system.
The clutch in the car is ok but has 58K miles on it. Fluid has been changed only once, when I purchased the car with 48K miles.
I have read a number of posts on clutches and don’t think I need one of the high performance aftermarket ones like RPS or Monster, but would like some opinions about those versus say the LS7 clutch. Or will just replacing the stock clutch suffice. Also any thoughts on the master cylinder, as in if the Tick unit is required or just a nice to have upgrade. Again keeping in mind the targeted HP and that I won’t be tracking the car except for occasional ¼ mile runs or maybe a club track day event.
Thanks again for any input.
The clutch in the car is ok but has 58K miles on it. Fluid has been changed only once, when I purchased the car with 48K miles.
I have read a number of posts on clutches and don’t think I need one of the high performance aftermarket ones like RPS or Monster, but would like some opinions about those versus say the LS7 clutch. Or will just replacing the stock clutch suffice. Also any thoughts on the master cylinder, as in if the Tick unit is required or just a nice to have upgrade. Again keeping in mind the targeted HP and that I won’t be tracking the car except for occasional ¼ mile runs or maybe a club track day event.
Thanks again for any input.
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The LS7 clutches are really nice for cars in the 425-450 rwhp range. The only time we would not recomend using them would be for cars that will see higher rpm launches at the track with a tire. For street use they work very well..
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Odessa FL
St. Jude Donor '10-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
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Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Walnut Creek, CA California
I just did a clutch swap this summer. I ended up going with a Centerforce Dual Friction 12". I also added a new slave and Tick MC with their remote bleeder. Very happy with the results. As for mods, I only have LTs and a vararam. PM with any questions.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Sicamous BC
I just had the LS7 clutch/flywheel, new slave & remote bleeder installed this fall. Did not get a lot of seat time, a few Hi rpm shifts & worked well.
Drives as stock other than my pedal releases very close to the floor, I have tried most ever bleed procedure with no change.
I was told by the installer that is normal , if it does not improve I will try the Tick MC.
My power level is above 450rwhp.
Drives as stock other than my pedal releases very close to the floor, I have tried most ever bleed procedure with no change.
I was told by the installer that is normal , if it does not improve I will try the Tick MC.
My power level is above 450rwhp.
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Drifting
Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Charlotte, NC
I would disagree with the Textralia Z-Grip clutch as suggested above. They are inconsistent in that some have issues and others don't. I had Tick Performance install my Z-Grip as well as replace the master, slave, and a few other parts.
The clutch chadders soooo badly from a stop that it is emberassing. Thank goodness this is not my daily driver. It does hold very well and the Tick Adjustable MC has been great for ease of shifting (flawless).
The Textralia X-grip is more street friendly....though I would probably pick the LS7 clutch (much cheaper and reliable) as someone else suggested above.
The clutch chadders soooo badly from a stop that it is emberassing. Thank goodness this is not my daily driver. It does hold very well and the Tick Adjustable MC has been great for ease of shifting (flawless).
The Textralia X-grip is more street friendly....though I would probably pick the LS7 clutch (much cheaper and reliable) as someone else suggested above.
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Drifting
Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Charlotte, NC
Well, I think the main reason for using the Tick MC is because a lot of guys are having trouble shifting their aftermarket clutches at high rpm. The Tick MC cures this problem and is the only one on the market to do so (or so was the case about a year ago when I had mine installed).
My thought was to replace everything while they were in there, slave, MC, bearings...etc. Of course my car had 80k miles on it at the time.
My thought was to replace everything while they were in there, slave, MC, bearings...etc. Of course my car had 80k miles on it at the time.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Odessa FL
St. Jude Donor '10-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
Thanks to all who replied the info was great.
Drifting
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From: Redwood City CA
Just drive it for a while...
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Our Adjustable Master Cylinders do not allow you to adjust engagement point - no master cylinder does (adjustable or otherwise). I suggest everyone considering one of our kits reads over our FAQ: http://www.tick-performance.com/tick...te/hydraulics/
OP: I suggest the LS7 Clutch in your case as well, or a Stage 2 Monster Clutch. Both will drive very nice, hold a similar amount of power and last a long time for you.
Keep in mind that the LS7 clutch was designed around a different hydraulic system (C6 Z06) and that your factory C5 hydraulics likely will not be sufficient for a full disengagement (see post #7 in this thread.)
Our Master Cylinder is a great upgrade over the stocker, and will guarantee a full disengagement with ANY clutch setup.
OP: I suggest the LS7 Clutch in your case as well, or a Stage 2 Monster Clutch. Both will drive very nice, hold a similar amount of power and last a long time for you.
Keep in mind that the LS7 clutch was designed around a different hydraulic system (C6 Z06) and that your factory C5 hydraulics likely will not be sufficient for a full disengagement (see post #7 in this thread.)
Our Master Cylinder is a great upgrade over the stocker, and will guarantee a full disengagement with ANY clutch setup.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,300
Likes: 115
From: Odessa FL
St. Jude Donor '10-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
Our Adjustable Master Cylinders do not allow you to adjust engagement point - no master cylinder does (adjustable or otherwise). I suggest everyone considering one of our kits reads over our FAQ: http://www.tick-performance.com/tick...te/hydraulics/
OP: I suggest the LS7 Clutch in your case as well, or a Stage 2 Monster Clutch. Both will drive very nice, hold a similar amount of power and last a long time for you.
Keep in mind that the LS7 clutch was designed around a different hydraulic system (C6 Z06) and that your factory C5 hydraulics likely will not be sufficient for a full disengagement (see post #7 in this thread.)
Our Master Cylinder is a great upgrade over the stocker, and will guarantee a full disengagement with ANY clutch setup.
OP: I suggest the LS7 Clutch in your case as well, or a Stage 2 Monster Clutch. Both will drive very nice, hold a similar amount of power and last a long time for you.
Keep in mind that the LS7 clutch was designed around a different hydraulic system (C6 Z06) and that your factory C5 hydraulics likely will not be sufficient for a full disengagement (see post #7 in this thread.)
Our Master Cylinder is a great upgrade over the stocker, and will guarantee a full disengagement with ANY clutch setup.
