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About control arm bushings...

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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 01:55 PM
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Default About control arm bushings...

can you purchase them separate without buying new control arms?
stock bushings only. My control arms are fine but the bushings will need to be replaced soon..
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 02:12 PM
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Not as far as I know. You need the entire arm. Im going to poly bushings.

BC
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 02:54 PM
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Vette Brake and Products has this:

Name: Control Arm Poly Conversion Kit, 1997-05
ID: 97450

Category: C5 Corvettes 1997-05

Manufacturer: Vette Brakes & Products, Inc.

Desc: These special polyurethane bushings are graphite impregnated and eliminate static bind in the suspension movement. Kit does front and rear, 1997-05.
Price: $319.99
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 04:57 PM
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The stock bushings are rubber that is molded on the arm. Before poly bushings are installed the old rubber needs to be heated to ease removal then the a-arms are cleaned up and ready for the new poly bushings. You can do all this at home, outside is best to avoid the smell.
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 06:03 PM
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www.performancesuspension.com

Front and rear poly sets for vettes. I purchased the front control arm bushings for $44. Rears are $49 if I remember correctly.
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by racetchr
www.performancesuspension.com

Front and rear poly sets for vettes. I purchased the front control arm bushings for $44. Rears are $49 if I remember correctly.
do they squeek? I used to have polys bushings on other cars and they squeeked no matter how much they were lubed
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 06:36 PM
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Havent had any noise. They come with a tube of lube, but only used a dab.
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by mark b
do they squeek? I used to have polys bushings on other cars and they squeeked no matter how much they were lubed
Mine groan like a mother towards the end of the season. Once a year, I have to pull all the arms off, clean out the bushings and regrease. The front uppers are the worst offenders. The change in handling is unbelievable, but it comes at a price. Some people put zerk fittings into their arms, and some say the Pfadt bushings are quieter...but I can't comment on either.
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 09:47 PM
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Just did rears ,energy sus. $89 f/complete rear does not come w/hardware best way to get sleeves out of stock bushings ,little gas set afire burn rubber off any other way PIA did mine to help w/wheelhop not cured but helped,not too difficult to do just lot of grunt work, pressed mine off & on in vise should take between 3-8 hrs depend on exp.
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 10:23 PM
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The best way to get old the old bushings is to use a ball joint or hydraulic press.

There is no need to heat up the rubber and bushing and make a big mess.


Originally Posted by Fast one
The stock bushings are rubber that is molded on the arm. Before poly bushings are installed the old rubber needs to be heated to ease removal then the a-arms are cleaned up and ready for the new poly bushings. You can do all this at home, outside is best to avoid the smell.
Originally Posted by K RIPPER
Just did rears ,energy sus. $89 f/complete rear does not come w/hardware best way to get sleeves out of stock bushings ,little gas set afire burn rubber off any other way PIA did mine to help w/wheelhop not cured but helped,not too difficult to do just lot of grunt work, pressed mine off & on in vise should take between 3-8 hrs depend on exp.
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ajg1915
The best way to get old the old bushings is to use a ball joint or hydraulic press.

There is no need to heat up the rubber and bushing and make a big mess.


But, depending on the poly bushing kit you may have to reuse your old metal selves inside the rubber bushings.

I found it best to torch the rubber bushings (after removal) and let the rubber burn off the selves.


Pfadt makes nice bushings
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ajg1915
The best way to get old the old bushings is to use a ball joint or hydraulic press.

There is no need to heat up the rubber and bushing and make a big mess.
my kit required to reuse sleeves rubber is vulcanized to sleeve,even w/ball joint press still PIA,First time doing bush in vette but have done many, many times before.Press out.... rubber streches and streches before let go...,heat bushing and press.. comes right out but smoky stink up shop can only do one at a time...,burn.. just put in metal pan add little gas place in secure spot (my driveway on cinder block) take coffee break,wire wheel sleeves to remove carbon,they're ready f/install ...you can only press one sleeve at a time you can burn all at once
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Old Dec 3, 2009 | 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by 4DRUSH



Pfadt makes nice bushings

Not really, having all kinds of problems with their new version of bushings as the top upper front bushings slide out of place due to a poor fitting, ill designed snap ring.

I'm still waiting on a solution.



Originally Posted by K RIPPER
my kit required to reuse sleeves rubber is vulcanized to sleeve,even w/ball joint press still PIA,First time doing bush in vette but have done many, many times before.Press out.... rubber streches and streches before let go...,heat bushing and press.. comes right out but smoky stink up shop can only do one at a time...,burn.. just put in metal pan add little gas place in secure spot (my driveway on cinder block) take coffee break,wire wheel sleeves to remove carbon,they're ready f/install ...you can only press one sleeve at a time you can burn all at once
Takes me about 5 minutes a control arm to press out the bushings. Done it several times now. I only use complete kits like VBP or Pfadt so I don't re-use any of the stock parts.
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Old Dec 3, 2009 | 02:05 PM
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To my knowledge you can't get the stock bushings separate from the control arms. I have heard that Moog has them, which would be available from your local parts store. I would think you'd need a pretty good parts guy to find it for you if it is true that they make it.

My answer is that you can't get them so you will either buy control arms if you want on stock bushings, or you'll go with poly bushings instead. The cheap poly setups make you reuse the stock pins, which as noted in this thread really sucks to do because of the labor involved. The more $$ versions come with new pins so you don't have to get yours out of the rubber. I've done it both ways, I'll continue to use both. It's a laborsome job to reuse stock pins because of getting them out of the rubber, so if you are not up for long, tedious, dirty work. . .pony up for the expensive sets. If you'd rather get out at under half the price, get ready for some good labor. Either way, it's best to get a ball joint press for removing the old ones from the control arms. That part isn't so bad at all.
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Old Dec 3, 2009 | 10:00 PM
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I've only seen the ball joints available w/o the arm
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Old Dec 3, 2009 | 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Neato
I've only seen the ball joints available w/o the arm
we're not talking ball joints here
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by 4DRUSH
we're not talking ball joints here
REALLY ?
sorry you missed my point
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To About control arm bushings...

Old Dec 4, 2009 | 07:10 AM
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Set the A-arm a-fire to remove the bushings, hmm, so much for the A-arm heat treatment.
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by dougbfresh
Vette Brake and Products has this:

Name: Control Arm Poly Conversion Kit, 1997-05
ID: 97450

Category: C5 Corvettes 1997-05

Manufacturer: Vette Brakes & Products, Inc.

Desc: These special polyurethane bushings are graphite impregnated and eliminate static bind in the suspension movement. Kit does front and rear, 1997-05.
Price: $319.99
This is what I purchased.

needed a 20 ton press to get the old bushings out
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Eric D
Set the A-arm a-fire to remove the bushings, hmm, so much for the A-arm heat treatment.
CORRECTION remove bushings from control arm... set bushing afire to remove sleeves that are vulcanized to bushing OR cut off rubber and wire wheel (labor,messy)...aluminum Control arms are heat treated?!? front uppers are forged alum. as they are most stressed, lower front and rear are cast alum....heating alum. w/open flame is risky and should be avoided... forged alum. is not heat treated although cast is high strength cast additionally are not heat treated
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