I'm gettin good at dropping the drivetrain...
Little $10 part,buried in "the belly of the beast".
All was cool till last week,when I started having trouble getting into reverse -not the usual "no,I don't want to go in right now" thing,but wouldn't go in at all,unless I shut the car off first.
That,and the accompanying squeaking/groaning noise from the bellhousing area,told me what I was going to be doing over the weekend.
Anyway,since I really don't want to do it a third time,I opted for a Kevlar/Composite pilot bushing -they're supposed to be more forgiving on reassembly(harder to screw up),and they're also good if the end of your propshaft looks like a beaver has been gnawing on it,like mine did,thanks to the grenaded needle bearings.

I smoothed this out with 600 wetordry,and Mothers polish before reassembly...


These are my custom flywheel locks-they work sweet!
(they're actually conveyor sprockets form a Burger King toaster,but they work perfect)

I'll let you know how the Kevlar bushing works out-it's great so far,but I've only put about 50 miles on it...
This prevents bending disc and fubaring the pilot bearing.
Just curious how the pilot bearing makes it hard to get into reverse as I am having trouble getting mine into reverse after less that 1 week of driving. Sometimes it goes and sometimes it just locks(?) the gate. I have rebled the clutch thinking that was the problem. I triple checked the lockout sensor on tranny so I am pretty sure it is not that. Just curious.
Thanks.
First was also difficult,but not impossible.
If your pilot is bad,you should definitely hear some rumbling/groaning/squeaking noises when not moving,car running,clutch in, trans in gear.
In neutral,clutch out,the propshaft spins up to match engine speed,and the noises will go away.
I didn't remove the bellhousing,either,just the inspection plate-I really didn't like the looks of those upper bellhousing bolts!
My choice of pilot bushings was between sintered bronze and Kevlar,(no more needle bearings for me)and I decided to go with the new technology on this one.
Guess I'm the guinea pig here,since after numerous searches on the forum,I didn't find anyone else who had used one yet.
In my line of work,I have seen kevlar composite friction materials that were still like new after ten years of constant use,so I know it's some pretty durable stuff-We'll see how well that durability translates to bearing surfaces...
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
It's supposed to have a constant working temp of around 375-400f,with a max temp of 500f
Just how well it's gonna work remains to be seen-looks good on paper,though.
The Composite is Hydlar-Z,but ZM or ZT looks like it'd work even better,but I couldn't find anything made from those materials.
Could buy a chunk of it and have one machined,I suppose(but I hope I never have to)
* Hydlar Z - (Nylon/ Kevlar Composite)
* Hydlar ZT - (Nylon/ Kevlar/ PTFE (teflon)Composite) provides increased wear and lubricity.
* Hydlar ZM - (Nylon/ Kevlar/ Molybdenum Disulphide Composite) offers improved surface hardness, increased wear and lubricity.
First was also difficult,but not impossible.
If your pilot is bad,you should definitely hear some rumbling/groaning/squeaking noises when not moving,car running,clutch in, trans in gear.
In neutral,clutch out,the propshaft spins up to match engine speed,and the noises will go away.
I didn't remove the bellhousing,either,just the inspection plate-I really didn't like the looks of those upper bellhousing bolts!
My choice of pilot bushings was between sintered bronze and Kevlar,(no more needle bearings for me)and I decided to go with the new technology on this one.
Guess I'm the guinea pig here,since after numerous searches on the forum,I didn't find anyone else who had used one yet.
In my line of work,I have seen kevlar composite friction materials that were still like new after ten years of constant use,so I know it's some pretty durable stuff-We'll see how well that durability translates to bearing surfaces...
Thanks.
If you can't get it into reverse with the ignition off, then either your shifter is mis-aligned or you have some internal tranny problems.
The reverse lock-out is not activated until you put the key in ans turn it to the on position.
When the reverse lockout solenoid is powered up(key on),the car can then be put into reverse.
It de-energizes at 3 mph,so you can't jam it back in once you're moving.
When you stop,you can once again put the car in reverse,as long as the key is on.
With the key off,the solenoid is in the locked-out position.
The car will not go into reverse with the key off.
Shut it off in reverse. Take it out of reverse. Does it go back in?
try it.
Document ID# 688739
2001 Chevrolet/Geo Corvette
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Reverse Inhibit Description and Operation
The reverse inhibit solenoid is a safety feature which prevents an inadvertent shift into reverse at speeds above 5 kp/h (3 mph). The system consist of the following components:
The powertrain control module (PCM).
The reverse inhibit solenoid.
With the ignition ON battery voltage is supplied directly to the reverse inhibit solenoid. At forward speeds above 5 kp/h (3 mph) the PCM grounds the control circuit of the reverse inhibit solenoid. This energizes the solenoid and mechanically blocks the shift lever from going into the REVERSE position.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Document ID# 688739
2001 Chevrolet/Geo Corvette
When the reverse lockout solenoid is powered up(key on),the car can then be put into reverse.
It de-energizes at 3 mph,so you can't jam it back in once you're moving.
When you stop,you can once again put the car in reverse,as long as the key is on.
With the key off,the solenoid is in the locked-out position.
The car will not go into reverse with the key off.
Shut it off in reverse. Take it out of reverse. Does it go back in?
try it.
When the reverse lockout solenoid is powered up(key on),the car can then be put into reverse.
It de-energizes at 3 mph,so you can't jam it back in once you're moving.
When you stop,you can once again put the car in reverse,as long as the key is on.
With the key off,the solenoid is in the locked-out position.
The car will not go into reverse with the key off.
Shut it off in reverse. Take it out of reverse. Does it go back in?
try it.
This is from the Service Manual.
---------------------------------------------
With the ignition ON battery voltage is supplied directly to the reverse inhibit solenoid. At forward speeds above 5 kp/h (3 mph) the PCM grounds the control circuit of the reverse inhibit solenoid. This energizes the solenoid and mechanically blocks the shift lever from going into the REVERSE position.
----------------------------------------------------
EDIT:----ajg1915, I guess you type faster than me!
Last edited by byronhunter; Dec 24, 2009 at 10:12 PM.
1998 Corvette Service Manual Volume 3 of3
Page 6-810 Engine Controls-5.7L
DTC P0801 Reverse Inhibit Solenoid Control Circuit
" When the Reverse Inhibit solenoid energizes,the operator can shift the transmission into reverse. The PCM enables the reverse inhibit solenoid whenever vehicle speed is below 5 MPH.When the vehicles speed is above 5 MPH,the PCM de-energizes the solenoid,which prevents the operator from shifting the transmission into reverse."
This is how Mine (1998) works,if other years are different,then I apologize for jumping to any conclusions.
(although this way makes more sense,IMO)
Last edited by Carcass; Dec 25, 2009 at 02:12 AM.



















