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Is my battery Shot ?

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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 03:48 PM
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Default Is my battery Shot ?

Batterys a durlast gold. Bought it 2 and a half years ago. Car dosnt get driven much, never on a tender. Always started right up until a couple weeks ago. Slow start the first time it acted up. Click click click the second time and wouldnt start. So I recharged battery. Fired right up . Been sitting for a week, go to start it this morning and nothing. Checked battery voltage and it was like 4 volts. The battery is still under warranty, so Ill pick up a new one tomarrow. If battery goes dead again after being replaced what are some of the things that will drain the battery while it is just sitting? Thanks
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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 08:57 PM
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Allowing a battery to drain down beyond a certain amount will shorten its life. Do this repeatedly and that life could easily be only 2.5 years. This shortening of life can be hastened if your trips are not long enough, so I would advise you to buy a battery tender and use it if your car will not be driven for more than a couple of weeks at a time.
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 09:49 AM
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You need a battery float charger to keep the battery from getting sulfated....

In the typical lead-acid-battery or flooded cell battery the generated voltage is nominally 2.1 volts. The typical 12-volt battery consists of 6 cells, which are internally connected in series to make up the battery. Each cell consists of the Positive plates, which are made from Lead Dioxide (PbO2), the Negative plates which are made from Sponge Lead (Pb), and they are immersed in the electrolyte made of Sulfuric Acid (H2SO4). Batteries Start with a battery-lead-acid type

THE ELECTROCHEMICAL PROCESS


Current flow and discharging of the battery occurs when an external load is connected across the positive and negative terminals, and a chemical reaction takes place between the two plate materials and the electrolyte.


During this discharge reaction, the plates interact with the electrolyte to form lead sulfate and water, which dilutes the electrolyte, reducing the electrolyte density. As both plates become similar in composition, the cell loses the ability to generate a voltage. Re-charging of a cell reverses this reaction and the water decomposes to release hydrogen and oxygen, with the two plate materials being reconstituted to the original material.


When the plates are fully restored, and the electrolyte is returned to the nominal density the battery is completely recharged.

Deionized and distilled water is the preferred for topping up cells .



ABOUT PLATE SULFATION

Sulfation is the single greatest cause of flooded cell battery failure and the causes are relatively simple.

During discharge, the chemical reaction causes both plates to convert to lead sulfate, and if recharging is not carried out promptly the lead sulfate starts to harden and crystallize. This is characterized by the formation of white crystals on the typically brown plates and is almost non- reversible. The immediate effect of sulfation is partial and permanent loss of capacity as the quantity of active material is reduced. Electrolyte density also partially decreases, as the chemical reaction during charging cannot be fully reversed. This sulfated material also introduces higher resistances within the cell and inhibits charging, and as the level of sulfated material increases, the cell's ability to retain a charge is reduced and the battery ultimately fails. The deep cycle battery has unfairly gained a bad reputation for sulfation, however the battery is not the cause, improper and incomplete charging is the real cause.


go to a locate Harbor Freight store
or www.harborfreight.com

Buy their battery float charger....
ITEM 42292-7VGA
$7.99
Use on 12 volt batteries while in storage or during cold weather
Floating circuit maintains a full charge without overcharging
Automatic safety shutoff
10 ft. long leads with copper clamps

I have used them for 5 seasons...
3 Vettes
My newphew has on his Vette
Mybrother on 2 ATVs and 2 boat batteries....

You can pay a lot more for the same result.
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 12:16 PM
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BATTERY TENDER JUNIOR
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Slick Rick
Batterys a durlast gold. Bought it 2 and a half years ago. Car dosnt get driven much, never on a tender. Always started right up until a couple weeks ago. Slow start the first time it acted up. Click click click the second time and wouldnt start. So I recharged battery. Fired right up . Been sitting for a week, go to start it this morning and nothing. Checked battery voltage and it was like 4 volts. The battery is still under warranty, so Ill pick up a new one tomarrow. If battery goes dead again after being replaced what are some of the things that will drain the battery while it is just sitting? Thanks
I would invest in a Ctek. I wouldn't trust anything else on my C5. I would stay away from the cheaper units on the market.

I use the 7002 on my Vette and do not experience these issues like I used to. The 3300 is all you need for everyday use.

http://www.shop.jwmotoring.com/categ...?categoryId=43
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 02:25 PM
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Went to Autozone, No questions asked replaced battery with a new one problem solved. 12.5 volts sitting,14.0 at battery running,15.0 at alternater running. Now I just have to get out and drive it a little more often............
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 03:18 PM
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how are you guys connecting the amp meter?
If you disconnect a feed then reconnect won't it wake the systems??
do you connect then let the timers turn things off?
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 10:51 PM
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got it. I have a 1 yo battery. I have a ctek. charge the battery till it reads fully charged. drive to work 16 miles. dead when I get off work at end of day. had to jump.
I wiil connect the VOM to test amp draw.
the ctek is not telling me there is a battery problem.

Last edited by FAAASTJEDI2000; Dec 26, 2009 at 10:53 PM.
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
That is how you have to do it. If you connect and disconnect you start the timers all over and it takes 15 minutes or more for the BCM to go back into sleep mode. Same with doing things like opening the door which turns on the interior lights which wakes up the BCM......


OK hmmm? how do you pull the fuses inside?
I'm guessing pull a couple and wait 20+ mins to check results.
slow process.
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 09:19 PM
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So much for the new battery. Went out to start it tonight and battery was dead again. WTF, I checked to make sure no inside lights were staying on. Vanity lights and glove box lights. All go out as they are suppose to. What would keep causing the battery to drain. It only sat for three days with the new battery. Please help.......
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Old Dec 30, 2009 | 12:11 AM
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Okay I got it to fire up. Dic is reading 13.5 with motor warm. I did a code check no codes. Where do I set my voltmeter to test my fuses. I touch negitive post with one probe and then any metal ground with the other and then start pulling fuses. Do i want my reading to go up or down on my meter?
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Old Dec 30, 2009 | 12:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Slick Rick
Okay I got it to fire up. Dic is reading 13.5 with motor warm. I did a code check no codes. Where do I set my voltmeter to test my fuses. I touch negitive post with one probe and then any metal ground with the other and then start pulling fuses. Do i want my reading to go up or down on my meter?
Post #14 guides you to a thread that will answer your questions.
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Old Dec 30, 2009 | 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
Post #14 guides you to a thread that will answer your questions.
Very informative, I will be using this tomarrow to see if I have a problem, and if I do I will be using all the other info to fix it. I also ordered a battery tender since it is not used much in the winter.
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