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Not to hijack this thread, but having a few degrees of advance ground into the cam will bump low-end power a bit? Someone else chose the cam specifications for me (113+4) but I never knew what the purpose of the advance was. What is the tradeoff? Top-end power?
Thanks,
ADVANCE:
Begins the intake event sooner
Opens the intake valve sooner
Decreases piston-intake valve clearance
Increases piston-exhaust valve clearance
Builds more low end torque
Lowers the power band slightly
Sacrifices top end power
RETARD:
Delays the intake event
Opens the intake valve later
increases piston-intake valve clearance
decreases piston-exhaust valve clearance
builds more high end torque
Raises the power band slightly
Increases top end power
Thanks again for all the info. When all the components were originally installed i used clay bar to check PTV clearance, measured push rod length, installed new lifters, timing gears and chain, meling oil pump, UD pulley ect. Point being i wanted to do it right and not cut corners. If i need to buy the parts to degree the cam to be sure then thats what i want to do. May need some of you guys to assist me in the process however I'm sure it will be worth the effort. Also was just getting ready to install timing cover so the cam is still exposed.
Thanks again for all the info. When all the components were originally installed i used clay bar to check PTV clearance, measured push rod length, installed new lifters, timing gears and chain, meling oil pump, UD pulley ect. Point being i wanted to do it right and not cut corners. If i need to buy the parts to degree the cam to be sure then thats what i want to do. May need some of you guys to assist me in the process however I'm sure it will be worth the effort. Also just was getting ready to install timing cover so the cam is still exposed.
You'll have to pull the heads if they're on already to do this.
And the headers are on and all bolted up to the collectors
Like Y2Kvert4me already stated, you've run this setup on another motor, so it's not like a fresh build, with shaved heads, etc. Put the car together and enjoy.
Er... What's to stop you from adjusting with cam gear teeth? Just because there's a dot on the gear doesn't mean you have to line it up.
A lot of off the shelf cams come with an advance ground in and it may or may not be marked on the cam card (and if it is, there's no telling exactly how it will be marked... 113+4 or ICL+ or ADV4, etc.). No reason in the world not to degree a cam except you don't know how (and that's easily fixable and the tools are < $100).
I am certainly not a builder and have done only one install. I think i will take the time to degree going forward. Why not??? I just didn't know how (still don't but will learn asap)
You'll have to pull the heads if they're on already to do this.
Why?
While I have degreed a cam with the heads off, most of the cams I've degreed in my life were done heads and valve train on -- including the 427 in my C5.
Well on my next build i will be sure to get all the needed tools and knowledge to degree the cam in. Gonna go pin the crank and get back at it!
Personally, I'd check to make sure you are on dot to dot and that the cam is where you think it is. If you don't have the front end on already it will take you longer to open the package of the cam degree kit and set it up than it will to degree the cam.
ADVANCE:
Begins the intake event sooner
Opens the intake valve sooner
Decreases piston-intake valve clearance
Increases piston-exhaust valve clearance
Builds more low end torque
Lowers the power band slightly
Sacrifices top end power
RETARD:
Delays the intake event
Opens the intake valve later
increases piston-intake valve clearance
decreases piston-exhaust valve clearance
builds more high end torque
Raises the power band slightly
Increases top end power
While I have degreed a cam with the heads off, most of the cams I've degreed in my life were done heads and valve train on -- including the 427 in my C5.
You can also use a piston stop through the spark plug hole to find TDC.
True but on many engines (especially if they are still in the car) it hard to do if not impossible. If the plugs go in at an angle it also make it hard to do that.
True but on many engines (especially if they are still in the car) it hard to do if not impossible. If the plugs go in at an angle it also make it hard to do that.
I made my own piston stop for my motor. It worked great.
True but on many engines (especially if they are still in the car) it hard to do if not impossible. If the plugs go in at an angle it also make it hard to do that.
Short flat bladed screw driver works just as well.
Also, you don't have to degree on #1 -- any cylinder will do, so pick the easiest one to get to the plug hole.
Last edited by TurboBerserker; Feb 2, 2010 at 07:26 PM.
By not degreeing the cam you make alot of assumptions.the list is rather long
you assume the cam is ground correctly
that the cam was boxed correctly
that the cam card is correct for the cam
that the timing gears are made correctly
that the keyway in the crankshaft is cut in correctly
theres alot of poeple involved in this-plenty of places for mistakes
ive seen my share of boxed wrong cams and improperly ground cams
now,lets say everything is made within tolerance,what is that tolerance? and then we have the pesky tolerance stackup.Let's say the tolerance is 1/4 degree,so the crank is off 1/4 degree and the crank gear is off 1/4 degree and the cam gear is off 1/4 degree and the cam is off 1/4 degree,now we're a full degree off-i've seen a degree of cam timing make 15rwhp.
Guys like to say you can't change in anyway-so just put it in wrong?if it's off-make it right,get an adjustable timing set.
last but not least-you hit the key,if everything is right it will be fine,but what happens when it doesn't run correctly,isn't it nice KNOWING that the cam is in correctly and that isn't the problem.
piece of mind knowing i don't have to tear it all back apart is well worth the extra aggrivation to do it.
and for the guys that say it's impossible in the car-BS,i've degreed a cam is just about every car made,it can be done,where there is a will,there is a way.
By not degreeing the cam you make alot of assumptions.the list is rather long
you assume the cam is ground correctly
that the cam was boxed correctly
that the cam card is correct for the cam
that the timing gears are made correctly
that the keyway in the crankshaft is cut in correctly
theres alot of poeple involved in this-plenty of places for mistakes
ive seen my share of boxed wrong cams and improperly ground cams
now,lets say everything is made within tolerance,what is that tolerance? and then we have the pesky tolerance stackup.Let's say the tolerance is 1/4 degree,so the crank is off 1/4 degree and the crank gear is off 1/4 degree and the cam gear is off 1/4 degree and the cam is off 1/4 degree,now we're a full degree off-i've seen a degree of cam timing make 15rwhp.
Guys like to say you can't change in anyway-so just put it in wrong?if it's off-make it right,get an adjustable timing set.
last but not least-you hit the key,if everything is right it will be fine,but what happens when it doesn't run correctly,isn't it nice KNOWING that the cam is in correctly and that isn't the problem.
piece of mind knowing i don't have to tear it all back apart is well worth the extra aggrivation to do it.
and for the guys that say it's impossible in the car-BS,i've degreed a cam is just about every car made,it can be done,where there is a will,there is a way.
Thank you for your take on this...
I always degree my cams (5 so far), and I think that is one of the reasons the said and done engine power levels I've achieved always met or exceeded my expectations