I am in need of one and am looking for options as to what to run. I dont want the radiator oil cooler combination, I want a stand alone set up. Pfadt makes one, but with a Pfadt price. 1000$ is a bit much for one, but I do want one with a thermostat because its a street car. Any ideas? experiences?

 

If it is for a street car, and being in Ill., I would say you should go with the radiator oil cooler. The radiator will help regulate how cool the oil gets. The radiator works like a thermostat.

 

What oil temps do you see when running in Aug?

if your not seeing consistent oil temps ABOVE 260* then you really dont need one.

I have a stand alone. and in cold months I just zip time a piece of hard plastic over it too keep the oil temps UP

 

if I do 4 laps at the track (quarter mile) i hit 260+. I would like to road race this year, so it will get much much hotter than 260..its a LS3

I dont want a rad oil combo because I have a fear if anything happened they would mix and my motor would eat it

 

I've had a built in oil cooler for the last 4 years with lots of hard driving and no issues at all. I think you are worrying about something that won't happen. I've the LG Motorsports SuperCool Radiator w/built in oil cooler and it has more then lived up its claims. BTW I have a pretty stout 402. 541/505 @ the wheels.

 

I have a 402 that was hitting 300* at track so I installed my own. I got the B&M from Jegs,~$70, adapter from LPE $99, fittings and lines, ~$100. You can get some kits similar for a little more(TPIS is one Ithink). Go to Road Racing section and you will find numerous threads about types, installations, etc. Good Luck.

 

LS3 ? you need a bigger radiator too. a stand alone oil cooler would be better. keeps the oil much cooler then the combos.
Also look into an accu-sump with the LS6 bat wing oil pan or install the ARE dry sump system

We have a thread over in the auto-x and road race forum about the trials and LS3 Oil challenges on road courses.

 

You sure about that? I think the combo I listed would be more then enough to satisfy the need for a larger RAD, and an oil cooler. I've done many laps on a "ROAD" course that me and some friends run on. Sure its at 3 am but when you run all out for 20 miles the temps come up. I never saw above 230 degrees and that was after having raced the car all night and actually hitting 180+ numerous times. BTW, my 4 yr old EWP was working great, engine never got above 185, and under normal conditions she holds a steady 167-169, just an FYI on the myth that the MEZIERE ewp can't be trusted in a racing situation that requires sustained high RPMS. I can't see a belt driven water pump doing any better.

Good luck sorting out your options you have many. Pay a little more and get and all in one, or piece together a DIY to save a few bucks. Totally up to you. Just sharing my 4 yrs of experience with my all in one. (RAD/OIL COOLER)

 

After seeing oil temps of 305 at the track, and consistently hitting temps of 290's, I put in an all in one. Its a Dewitts and I've never seen temps go above 265 since. I drive very hard on the track, with some sessions lasting 45 minutes, and open track events even more. Everyone has their own opinion and preferences, good luck with the decision.

 

waddisme, you got any details on part #'s etc and your build up. I think I'd like to go that route as well.

 

you have a thermostat in there? I want the oil temp at least 200 while reg driving

 

I have a LS1 oil pan, so I have the batwing, but i do have the stock 202 ls1 rad. its bored and stroked to a 416, but the collant temps have never once gone over 192

 

Is not the same and does not count. You will NEVER push a car as hard on a street or drag strip as you do on a road course.

Your car / engine will be 3000rpms to redline, 4-5 times a lap or every 2:00 to 2:20 sec for 20 to 40 min, three to four times per day.

 

With yoru LS3 keep an eye on the coolant temps with that stock LS1 radiator. again READ THAT LINK I provided on LS3s on Road course.

The stock radiator with an LS1 or LS6 is fine to start out with. But temps should be watched.

 

I have them at work. I will look them up and post tomorrow. I did purchase the tstat, but did not install it. I was concerned about oil flow. For now, I made a piece of sheet metal that attaches over cooler for non-tracking days, but it does not seem to work well as temps never get above 198*.

 

A radiator oil cooler combo works a little different than most people think. It doesn't necessarily keep the oil warm and it doesn't hasten oil warm up. I ran a DRM radiator oil cooler kit that consisted of a Ron Davis Racing Radiator, a remote mount oil filter, and plumbing from the engine oil filter mount (no filter at the engine) to the remote and cooler. I first installed the set up on my 97 in 2000 and transfered it to my 03Z when I bought that car in 2003. On both cars I ran a 195 thermostat. On the 97 the coolant temp would stay at 200 and the oil temp would stay at 230 during half hour sessions at Watkins Glen where the slowest speed is about 60 in one of the turns. The engine spent most of its time at WOT. In 40 to 50 degree weather I had trouble getting the car up to temperature when driving on the highway. Coolant temp would be right around the thermostat opening temp of 186 and oil temps would be around 100. The only way to get the temps up was to drive with the car in third gear at 70 mph. When I transferred the set up to the Z I had already seen a 319 oil temp reading on it at Watkins Glen. The next time I went to the track the temps were similar to what I had seen with the 97. After a couple of years I added a thermostatic oil bypass that varied the amount of oil it sent to the cooler based on a temp of 180 degrees. Below 180 15% of the oil went through the cooler and above 180 85% went through the cooler. This raised my track coolant temps to 230 and oil temps to 265 but got my cold weather driving oil temps over 150. I ran that radiator in my C5s for 9 seasons.

As far as the coolant and oil mixing that is a pretty low risk. I have never heard of automatic transmissions being ruined by water mixing with their fluid. They have been cooling automatics by running their fluid through the radiator for 60+ years.

Bill

 

An other thread about LS3 oiling on road courses

 

Here is what I ordered from Summit:


BMM-70273 OIL COOLER A Shipped on
2/4/2009 $62.88 1 $62.88

PRM-1070 REMOTE OIL THERMOSTAT A Shipped on
2/4/2009 $41.88 1 $41.88

SUM-220047 -10X1/2 NPT -AN A Shipped on
2/4/2009 $4.75 6 $28.50

SUM-220086 -10 45 HOSE END A Shipped on
2/4/2009 $16.95 1 $16.95

SUM-220087 -10 90 HOSE END A Shipped on
2/4/2009 $16.95 3 $50.85

SUM-220090 -10 HOSE END SINGLE A Shipped on
2/4/2009 $8.95 4 $35.80

SUM-230010 S.S. HOSE -10 10FT A Shipped on
2/4/2009 $62.95 1 $62.95

I did not use all the hose ends as I did not plumb in tstat. I also used the LPE adapter, but there are better ones. I think the ECS or TPIS would be better because they 1) have sensor connection on top so no issues with wiring no being long enough, and 2) the LPE had to have allen wrench to tighten up and there is not much room in there to start with unless you have headers removed. That took a long time whereas it would have been quicker with bolts. I also had to get a 45*(?) fitting for the adapter to clear the other connection.

I also used this: http://www.competitionproducts.com/p....asp?dept=1007

I wrapped my lines in the Fyrejacket not just for heat protection, but to protect the steel braided from rubbing.

You can go to Earls fittings website and they have a youtube tutorial on how to install ends to braided lines - big help. Also, go to Road Racing section and do a search and you will find plenty of threads with pics. Good luck.

 

wow...good threads. maybe I should think again about road racing

 

Please don't say that, many wet sump systems are living happy on the track.

Randy