I know this may not be the correct section feel free to move it if needed.
I know the different shifters are all in someone's preference.
What I want is a non notchy fast shifter. I just want it pretty smooth. The less notchy the better.
I heard that one of the C6 shifters is not notchy at all.
So my question is simple.

For people that have tried at least two different shifters which is the smoothest easiest to throw in gear and if it is that C6 what years of the C6 has the best shifter.

its for my C5.

Thanks,

 

My Z had the B&M Ripper in it when I bought it. Very short, very, very notchy, but precise and hard to miss shifts. Unfortunately, too much for the wife. I installed C6 shifter 2 weeks ago. Definitely not notchy. Throws are much longer, but not as hard due to more leverage from the extra length. You can pick up a C6 shifter for ~$75 bucks used. It takes all of 10 mins to switch it out once you have done it a time or two. That is the best way to try it. I am still undecided about mine. May move on to MGW because I track mine and precise means a lot. Good luck with your choice.

 

I've got an 09 C6Z06 shifter cut down 3/4" and threaded. Short, not notchy. Great shifter!

 

I would LOVE to know what people describe as NOTCHY.

In ALL the OEM C5 and or C6 shifters, there are NONE, ZERO, NADA gates in the shifter. If you remove the shifter from the shifter box, the handle will flop around in any direction that you want it to.

The shift gates are inside the trans.

There are TWO basic aftermarket shifters. Ones very similar to the OEM shifter but a shorter throw & ones that have a set of springs in the shifter that force the handle to the neutral 3rd 4th positon.

So,,,,how does one get rid of the NOTCHEY feeling?? You have to do things to the tranny. Search the ANTIVENIOM Mod. It basically reduces the shift gate ball bearing preload.

Another thing that can cause poor shift feel is dirty worn out tranny ATF Fluid. Change your fluid. Depending on what year C5 you own dictates the fluid that you can run...

I have a KIRBAN shifer with return springs and shift stops. Its PERFECT for my driving / racing needs.

BC

 

I'm guessing people are referring to the tightness of the centering springs in aftermarket shifters. I recently installed an MGW in my car and the best way to describe it is "notchy" but you are correct, it has nothing to do with gates...it's all about the centering force. The MGW's centering is fairly strong, but I love it!!!

 

I installed a new C6 shifter in my 02 Z06 last week. I really like the feel of the C6 shifter. It's a shorter throw than the stock C5 shifter. I don't know about aftermarket shifters but I'm very happy with my C6 shifter.

 

it belongs in the
section

 

This gave me the most input of what I was trying to figure out. Any info on that trans mod you speak of? The reason I ask is because I have 2 t56's the one in the z is being moved to a stage 2 this week. while its down I may be interested in this ANTIVENIOM Mod... I will google in the meantime until someone chimes in.

Thanks,

 

B&M Ripper here. Three years and still love it.

 

Bill Curlee is technically correct . Now you work from that position. The shorter the shift handle the more effort is needed to direct the shifter has been my experience ( three c5es). The C6 'feels' better becuse the shift arm is angled , canted and ergonomically corrected over the straight C5 stick. But mechanically the C5 and C6 are the same.

My lastest 'attempt' to smooth out the shifting is with the Hurst C6 391508 with angled shifter arm.

The modification I did were to increase shifter arm length by 1 1/2 inches and use a modified( machined as much weight off as possble) Hurst T handle . This lessened the effort to shift ( shift throw is approx the same as a OEM C6 shifter now).

Hurst has various lateral bias springs ( from light to heavy) . I ended up with very light springs. The shifter arm moves easily all round.

The Venom Performance several years ago modified the dentent bolt length by shortening it by .062 ( cost was $60) thus the the DIY anti-venom modification of adding spacer(s) to the OEM dentent bolt ( with varying success). So I modified a dented bolt to duplicate the original Venom design . This modification did ease the forward and backward notch feel.

My advice for all is to swap the dino ATF to a a synthetic. For pre 2001 MN6 manual transmission with cellulose ( paper) blockers Amsoli ATF appears to be perfered ( as there is questions of the swelling and oil leaks from full synthetic AFT blends). I use RedLine synthetic ATF D4( 2001- use carbon blocker rings).

With these modifications , I personally am more satisfied with the drivability of the car. My wife (125 pounds ) likes the late model C6 Z06 shifter in her 2000 FRC ( no other modifcation ect trany fluid change(s).

This photo is just for comparsion: Left to right. The aftermarket C5 Hurst, OEM C6 and OEM C5 shifter ( shift boxes are both coupe C5/C6)

This is a 2007 C6 Z06 shifter assembly with (C5 compatible ) 9/16-18 threads on OEM C6 shifter arm length.

 

If you would like, I will send you my B&M and you can try it. If you don't like it, send it back. If you do, we can work out a deal or you can get a new one. Worst case, you are out shipping to and from, but at least you will know w/o buying one. Let me know if interested.

Thanks.

 

Reading your post to the end, here is what I recommend for you.

Get a C6 Stock OEM shifter. That’s the best that your going to get for smooth shifting. I have an 06 Z51 Coupe. The wife likes her 06 shifter and when I drive it, I too like it. Its SMOOTH compared to the brutality of my KIRBAN.

Change the ATF to synthetics or AMSOIL ATF (contact forum sponsor "SUBDRIVER" for the product and info)

If the tranny is still not to your required shift feel,,,,, preform the shift detent mod and see if that fixes the issue.

BC

 

BUT

It sounds like you would prefer a stock feeling shifter. I have an MGW and the centering force is quite strong (I love this shifter btw) and this leads to it being considered to be "notchy" by some.

This shifter:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-p...p-shifter.html

May be what you are interested in. Sort of a hybrid between stock and aftermarket. I haven't tried it personally, but those that have seem to love it. They also describe it as less "notchy".

There is absolutely no substitute for trying a shifter out in person though. Find a corvette club in your area and see if you can test out a few people's shifters...

 

If you want a shifter that isn't "notchy", the oem C6/Z06 shifters should work for you.

Some of the after market shifters with the capability to change the bias springs might work (KIRBAN, HURST, etc), provided you use the weakest springs.

I had the same concerns and didn't want to be tearing my car apart multiple times to find the right (subjective) shifter as some owners do.

I decided to use the B&M "Sport" shifter for that reason. It shifts better than oem, although I never had any complaints about the oem C5/Z06 shifter, just that square ****.

The B&M shifter is also rubber isolated like the oem shifters, so there are no annoying vibrations entering the cabin. It's tapped for the side fastener ala C6/Z06 which allows use of the later ergonomic ***** or any **** with 9/16-18" threads.

 

The dead horse beating thing is pretty funny, but this subject is always heading in different directions, depending on what "notchy" means. My take has always been that it's the resistance felt when traversing the neutral gate. Old school 4 speeds, with external shift rods, went from one gear to the next in one, unrestricted movement. Present Tremec transmissions, with internal, rifle bolt-like mechanisms, have a resistance when traversing the neutral gate, which makes shifting gears a two part motion. Totally removing the detent bolt reduces this in varying degrees, depending on each, individual transmission's construction. (QC?) Some can go with completely backed off detents, and feel very little difference, while others jump out of gear, or just feel sloppy when the detent is backed out. On my car, it felt no different wherever the bolt was. There's also another factor. The condition of the clutch, and it's hydraulics can also affect the smoothness of a gear change. Bottom line, I believe there's no way to completely eliminate this restriction (notchy feel) on modern manuals, at least Tremecs. The longer your shifter, the more leverage you have, but you have to give up short throws. I've tried stock, BPP, stock C6Z, and now MGW, and all have been "notchy". It's just a matter of degree, and compromise.

 

Excellent reply!!

I have a stock 71 Coupe with a stock Muncie tranny and shifter.

No matter how you look at it, the C5 tranny is head and shoulders better that old school. You need to drive an old car with old technology to really appreciate our Tremec transmissions. I hear that the 08+ C6 has an even better Tremec transmission with much better shift feel and can handle a LOT more power. I need to get some seat time in one to feel the difference.

Heres a pic of the stock C5 shifter box with the shifter removed just to show the insides. I have seen the shift shaft get dry and that can also make the shift harder. I lubed mine up with some lithium grease and it felt better after wards. I also made sure that the box was properly aligned to neutral.

02 ZO6 shift box (note the solid torque tube mount bushings):



BC