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If you are running headers, I prefer cutting of the tube and welding the pipe shut. A lot of guys have broke that weld using block off plates and most header manufacturers will not recommend them for that reason. I just had this done on my LG Pros that are being installed when the snow goes away.
If you are running headers, I prefer cutting of the tube and welding the pipe shut. A lot of guys have broke that weld using block off plates and most header manufacturers will not recommend them for that reason. I just had this done on my LG Pros that are being installed when the snow goes away.
OK, you got my curiosity up how do you break the weld using block off plates?
Appears to be a vibration problem cracking the welds.
As strange as it sounds, I've seen this happen several times and on several different manufacturer's headers. Personally I don't believe it could be vibration, my theory is that tiny little track gremlins crawl into the engine bay late at night and use tiny little air chisels to weaken the weld.
Its not all about power. I dont run fuel rail covers (dont like the look) and want to "clean-up" the engine bay and make it the way I think it should look.
If you are seeking more "engine bay" clean-up projects while you are snowed in --- here is something you may consider.
I dont like the idea of relocating the coil packs. I have seen pics of a valve cover with the coils hidden underneath them....that I like! I'm not sure who makes them or the cost.
I dont like the idea of relocating the coil packs. I have seen pics of a valve cover with the coils hidden underneath them....that I like! I'm not sure who makes them or the cost.
That was ABEAR and I don't think they are in business any longer.
What would it take to weld up a set?? Could you just make a "cap" to fit over the valve covers?? Glad I found this thread, a few other guys and I have been going back and forth about a header install and how to remove the AIR system. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...hing-else.html So thanks
Nate
Would it be a good idea to cut the tube off the air line connector (part that will be removed) and just weld that hole closed? (instead of buying block-off plates). That way I can use the same bolts that held the line on and it would be free.
25 years from now some guy will be cursing you for making such a choice. These are the kinds of parts that become very valuable when people are restoring cars. Just look at the prices AIR equipment from the late 60s brings nowadays. Don't toss it or cut it up.
25 years from now some guy will be cursing you for making such a choice. These are the kinds of parts that become very valuable when people are restoring cars. Just look at the prices AIR equipment from the late 60s brings nowadays. Don't toss it or cut it up.
Bill
I never plan on selling my car. You can never get out what you put in. Down the road I might get another one...and track this one, who knows!
I would like to get rid of the mess due to the code problems coming up with the crappy check valves. There is an inspection problem here in New Jersey though. How can this be programmed out so as not to be a future problem? Can this be done as a DIY?? Thanks!
There is no entry point into the intake manifold. It is only secured to the back of the intake manifold. To the drivers side head specifically. Here's mine (not going back on):
If you dont mind me asking....HOW THE HELL DID YOU GET THAT BACK BOLT OFF!!!! Am I going to have to pull off the intake manifold?
Thanks a ton,
Nate
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.